S800 alternative props
- Thread starter DennyR
- Start date
These motors look like they could be an alternative worth trying http://www.himodel.com/electric/DUA...k_Type_Motor_for_Multi-rotor_Short_shaft.html
My adapters will fit if you want to use sensible props.
My adapters will fit if you want to use sensible props.
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try these : http://shop.jet-1a.com/product_info...=2326&osCsid=a5b6f997bb79ef8a3e5a42d8a2fb66b3
and the 15 x 5,5 carbon
we pull 4,3 kilo payload with a cinestar
and on a hexa we get 22 minutes flytime with a av-200 and a sony 740 camera
and the 15 x 5,5 carbon
we pull 4,3 kilo payload with a cinestar
and on a hexa we get 22 minutes flytime with a av-200 and a sony 740 camera
ChrisViperM
Active Member
A few month ago there was a very confusing thread from a guy called "independent-tester" about his experience with Aibotix...in German and English. While Bart tried to merge all the different pieces together I gess in the end everything was messed up....
http://www.multirotorforums.com/sho...-with-the-aibotix-X6-part-1&p=45607#post45607
http://www.multirotorforums.com/sho...-with-the-aibotix-X6-part-6&p=45613#post45613
I contacted Aibotix about this thread to see their reaction and they switched in and answered in the right way, but on the German side of this thread;
http://www.multirotorforums.com/sho...mit-dem-Aibot-X6-Teil-1/page2&highlight=aibot
I think the Aibot X6 is a very good machine, but price wise far out of reach....
Chris
Not only that Jeff, it uses the same construction method. And I did also build a hexa version of the F1 as well. (less endurance). Quad is more efficient and a heli wins hands down.
Interesting camera gimbal, not bad unless it's been stabilised in post.
As an inspection vehicle for electricity pylons it is going to struggle as you need at least 1 hour duration to be viable. Having done that job with both models and a full size heli I know how the costing works. Inspections are normally carried out in conjunction with washing in dusty countries anyway so it has a limited use for that job.
Interesting camera gimbal, not bad unless it's been stabilised in post.
As an inspection vehicle for electricity pylons it is going to struggle as you need at least 1 hour duration to be viable. Having done that job with both models and a full size heli I know how the costing works. Inspections are normally carried out in conjunction with washing in dusty countries anyway so it has a limited use for that job.
mitmit
Member
fantastic. sounds like you've got perfect efficiency. any proof video?
mitmit
Member
I suppose many of us will be interested to see it though.
and it will be by no means boring if you will speed it up a lilbit, check how this guy shows his 84minute flight in 2min)
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ChrisViperM
Active Member
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I just distroyed a second one.
I think it´s not an issue of too much force, but an issue of material weakening. I changed props about 5 times now. This was enough to weaken the material to a point of weakness which destroyes the thread with very little force.
I am not sure how many flight it will take to weaken the material to failure.
Danny, please be aware of this and double-check!
I think it´s not an issue of too much force, but an issue of material weakening. I changed props about 5 times now. This was enough to weaken the material to a point of weakness which destroyes the thread with very little force.
I am not sure how many flight it will take to weaken the material to failure.
Danny, please be aware of this and double-check!
If you stripped the thread then that is different from it breaking through normal use. It must have been cross threaded at some point. One failure in over 200 sets sold would suggest that this is an isolated case. The reason that I use a steel nyloc nut is to prevent it from picking up in the thread. Other adapters that use alum in alum are going to have that problem a lot. Yes I can supply one adapter with screws and nut (10 euros and 4.50 shipping.) A small amount of grease would be ok on the thread. The thread is the same as just about all adapters made for this type of motor 60/61 is a very strong material that is not often used by the cheap chinese copies.
If that shaft had had a 4 mm hole through the middle it would have snapped off in half the time while you were in the air.
Are you sure that you are not overtightening it.
I just ran a test on an old adapter that has been used for more than six moths. The force needed to strip the thread was about three times the correct torque. Once you have mullered it you have cracked the material. This is not a hardened steel shaft so you have to use some common sense. An electric motor does not produce the same level of torsionals that a IC engine does, so you don't need so much tension to hold the prop.
If that shaft had had a 4 mm hole through the middle it would have snapped off in half the time while you were in the air.
Are you sure that you are not overtightening it.
I just ran a test on an old adapter that has been used for more than six moths. The force needed to strip the thread was about three times the correct torque. Once you have mullered it you have cracked the material. This is not a hardened steel shaft so you have to use some common sense. An electric motor does not produce the same level of torsionals that a IC engine does, so you don't need so much tension to hold the prop.
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I do not know the correct torque as i do not have a meter for it.
I simply tighten them till the props stop slipping.
I use steel nuts on them and it does not feel like the nut picked the thread. I just destroyed the thread with vey less force, before the prop stopped slipping.
I will meet a friend who works as a material engineer for a metal manufacturer to show him the parts. I think this is not a problem of 1 in 200 but the wrong material for this use. Do you have the specific code for the alloy material you use?
I think non corrosive steel would be the way to go for the adapters.
I simply tighten them till the props stop slipping.
I use steel nuts on them and it does not feel like the nut picked the thread. I just destroyed the thread with vey less force, before the prop stopped slipping.
I will meet a friend who works as a material engineer for a metal manufacturer to show him the parts. I think this is not a problem of 1 in 200 but the wrong material for this use. Do you have the specific code for the alloy material you use?
I think non corrosive steel would be the way to go for the adapters.
With a S800 and 15x5 Xoars and a 1100 maxamps you should be getting at least twenty mins. (30deg.)
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