that's exactly what mine do
when i rev mine for a minute and it screeches like my video showed my motors are really warm for what they did, no temp in the esc
tried 3 different motors in my case
Hi KDE,
These points you make are well understood by most users here. The KDE wires on the 55esc are undersized. After 2 minutes at 60% throttle the 14 gauge wires on the esc get very hot.
Most of us here working through this problem have engineering backgrounds and have been working with high amperage custom systems for many years now.
No one with a multi-rotor system is going to be running a single esc to a single battery like in your setup. Everyone is going to be running through a harness with 8 or 10 gauge high quality wire from someone like castle creations, or a custom power distro system. Most of us running high amp systems are also running 2 batteries on our copters to reduce the C load on the batteries, create a safer system by doubling the available cells in case one cell fails during flight so that the copter will not fall out of the sky due to voltage sag from that cell failure.
Almost all escs tested with the U7's have issues, the motors design is sub par and has too much rotational mass to adjust its speed at such a high rate without it falling out of sync.
I highly doubt that the temps of your esc is any different with your beautifully crafted motors(no sarcasm there, I really like your motors and wish I could afford them)
The way the esc heat sync is designed is nice, the way your actually used thermal epoxy instead of just a heat transfer tape like maytech and Hobbywing helps reduce your heat, but your esc needs larger fins for better passive cooling or a added fan to add active cooling. You can see that your esc runs 25f degrees cooler with a 12V 2.5cm fan. Most of us building systems like this will be carrying a 15-30,000$ camera package and esc temps above 125f are concerning to all of us. If you wish to hit this market properly then please add a fan mod kit or improve the heat sync.
Safety is all of our #1 priority, we have spent alot of time and spreadsheets crunching numbers of our motor/prop combos to make sure we are running an efficient safe system.
Most people will be running long (+400mm) motor leads, from the esc to the motors. Is there anything that you have engineered into these esc's that helps cope with the longer run, or should we just run thicker gauge wire up the arms? I'm looking to get a matched system, and the KDE equipment is the top of the list.
Very Nice! Do you know what the Ambient Temp was during the tests? Just wondering if the test was just hovering or flying around a bit? I would love to see a video of the setup in flight, sounds solid with the tuned esc/motor combo. Another question, what are you using for power distro?
Thanks
Very Nice! Do you know what the Ambient Temp was during the tests? Just wondering if the test was just hovering or flying around a bit? I would love to see a video of the setup in flight, sounds solid with the tuned esc/motor combo. Another question, what are you using for power distro?
Thanks
I'd love to know if anyone has been testing these with the Herk III board.
What's a Herk III?
The length of the lead from the ESC to the motor is actually not a concern for the ESC, and there are cases with some large-scale airplanes with lead length over 4' and pulling 300A+ amps, far worse than we put ESCs through in multi-rotors. No concerns with the motor leads, and we even ship our XF motors with 760mm+ leads on the larger motors.
What is much more critical is the length of the power-wires to the ESC (LiPo to ESC), and having these as short as possible is always a benefit to prevent voltage-ripples and over-stressing the capacitors on the MOSFET board lines.
All in one ESC's. Board fails, bird hits ground. 8 single, one fails, bird lands safely.
https://www.facebook.com/herkules3.de?_fb_noscript=1
All in one ESC's. Board fails, bird hits ground. 8 single, one fails, bird lands safely.
https://www.facebook.com/herkules3.de?_fb_noscript=1