Hoverfly Hoverfly Gimbal Controller?

thijmen5

Member
I'm also getting some overshooting my tilt point. When I'm flying my tilt can be pointing all the way down for a few seconds and comes back up.

How do I get completely of the jitters, I thought it was the skyline, but I'm getting them also with the hoverfly:upset:? When my octo is standing still you can see the tilt moving up and down a bit every now and then.
 

Forrest12

Member
OK - there is a new version (1.6r0) out there now that corrects one issue and provides some more information and control to help you fix some of what else appears to be going on with your system. Please upgrade to the new firmware as well as the new setup client.

First, the angle velocity mode issue.
This was a bug in the software - it is now corrected. The angle velocity feature worked properly as one of the modes if you were using the "mode select" switch feature - however (as you saw) it wasn't working when you selected to always use that mode for a servo channel. In the latest version, this is corrected.

Regarding the pawn problems that you are experiencing. There appear to be a couple things going on here. Let's look at the drifting to left first.

Is this happening when you are in heading lock (switch in mode 1 or 2) or when you have heading lock disabled (switch in mode 0)?

If it is happening with heading lock disabled (mode 0), then it has nothing to do with using or not using the magnetometer. In this case, what I would suspect is that either the servo center position is not correct or the yaw stick from your radio is not sitting at the same value when it returns to center. These are the only two things that can effect the yaw servo in this mode. I know you said the servo center position was correct - so perhaps it is the transmitter stick.

When the gimbal board starts up, it looks at your stick positions and assumes that they are centered. Whatever value it gets at startup it will use as the center value - so make sure your radio is on before starting the gimbal and the sticks are centered. Then the firmware has a deadband range around this center where it will ignore small amounts of motion. This is to account for the mechanical slop that is present in transmitters. It is possible that this deadband range is not wide enough for your transmitter. In the new version (1.6r0), we have added the deadband width as a user-configurable parameter. You can find it on the Receiver Config page. There is a button marked "Set Bands" for each receiver channel. In addition to the deadband, you can also set the ranges at which it considers a switch to be in position 0, 1, or 2. You don't have to set the switch band values for a channel that you are using as a stick, or vice-versa.

If the drift is happening when heading lock is enabled, there are two possibilities as well. Again, the problem could be the yaw stick. In heading lock mode, the yaw stick works a bit differently. Instead of just sending a pulse width directly to the servo, it actually moves the heading value which the gimbal is trying to lock onto. This value is now displayed on the main screen of the gimbal configuration utility, labeled "Heading Lock". If you set up the gimbal and it begins to drift in heading lock mode, have a look at the "Heading Lock" value. If it is drifting, then the yaw stick must be sending a value that is outside the deadband range and causing the lock position to move.

If the heading lock value is not changing and it is drifting, look at the heading value. Is this value changing at all? It should not be moving very far away from the heading lock value. If you are seeing drift, and this value is not moving away from the heading lock value, then there must be a problem with the heading estimate. The most likely cause of this is temperature based drift on the gyro. If you are seeing this, repeat the gyro temperature compensation procedure and try again.


Thanks for fixing the Angle velocity setting Im happy to report IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!y
This setting was necessary to turn auto compensated pan off during flight , and for take off..

Pan and tilt testing next
 

Photronix

Pilot
Try what Dan suggested and switch Roll and Tilt axes. It may be your Pot in the Tilt axis

I'm also getting some overshooting my tilt point. When I'm flying my tilt can be pointing all the way down for a few seconds and comes back up.

How do I get completely of the jitters, I thought it was the skyline, but I'm getting them also with the hoverfly:upset:? When my octo is standing still you can see the tilt moving up and down a bit every now and then.
 


Whopis

Member
Here's a quick video I did this morning showing the effect of the acceleration rate gain on the stability of the camera. This was just a quick and dirty demo of what happens at different values of the rate gain. This is running version 1.6r0 of the firmware (though I wouldn't expect this performance to be any different with any version going back to at least 1.0).


 
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hoverben

Person of Interest
I'm getting the idea that it is the pot, but what can I do about it?

Dan suggested that you may need to reverse one or both axes. Under Configuration & Calibration > Servo Configuration, there is a check-box between the Center Point and Scaling Factor controls to "Reverse Direction." Do one at a time, starting with Tilt since that is the one that is giving you an issue.
 

thijmen5

Member
Will try it, but than my correction will be opposite? (am I missing something?) My tilt is not only overshooting a bit, sometimes it just goes down by 25 degrees, sometimes it doesn't.
 

DucktileMedia

Drone Enthusiast
Yes, thanks for the velocity mode fix. Also, if anyone else is having problems getting the camera tray to point 90 deg down instead of 45 up and 45 down I now know how to fix it. It is a mechanical fix and you need to set the tray at 45 deg down and reposition the pot so that it is centered at that position. then in the centering window on the software you can bring it up from 1.5 to whatever it takes to level it. Voila!
 


thijmen5

Member
This is what I mean with overshooting quite a lot! Crappy quality of my htc desire. I just slowly rotated the camera tray. It does this sometimes, but when I airborne I shouldn't happen


EDIT: @ George. The problem is that it is an av130, since Photohigher replies after weeks (if they even do) there must be a better way. If you look to this vid, do you think the pot is broke? Haven't used it before because I had the skyline on it.
 
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thijmen5

Member
I swapped roll and pitch ports and the pitch keeps overshooting, so it must be the pot. Was looking to get a pot out of my align ds 520, but don't know how without breaking it.
On the web I find 10000 of potmeters, but I don't have any clue which one to get.

Can you guys give me something what the specs of that potmeter have to meet?
 

yeehaanow

Member
Depends what gimbal and how it is mounted. Is it direct to the axis or geared?
Basically any 5K ohm pot will work, but there are single-turn and multi-turn. You want Linear taper. The Bourns are a good place to start.
 

thijmen5

Member
I have an AV130 with stock servos. The pots are on the geared tray, so it isn't direct drive. I will look for an 5K ohm pot. How about watts??
 

FOX222

Member
Sorry to change the subject but can someone please tell me why most of the setting on the pan servo page are grayed out? I am using the 1.6 firmware.

Thanks,
John
 

S11D336B

George - Hoverfly
Sorry to change the subject but can someone please tell me why most of the setting on the pan servo page are grayed out? I am using the 1.6 firmware.

Thanks,
John

Because they don't apply to pan. Click the PID button to adjust pan

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 


yeehaanow

Member
1 watt is fine, if I remember correctly. Sounds like you probably need a 3-turn. It should say on the pot you have now, no?

I have an AV130 with stock servos. The pots are on the geared tray, so it isn't direct drive. I will look for an 5K ohm pot. How about watts??
 

Whopis

Member
Is anybody looking at the v1.6 problem with yaw-roll coupling?

-- Gary

Yes - I am looking at it now actually. I am a bit puzzled since you said it didn't happen with 1.03, but does with 1.5/1.6. I haven't seen anything that changed that should be related to that so far.

However - I am going to change back a couple things and post a test version - and would like you to try that if you don't mind. It should be exactly the same as 1.6 with one feature turned back to the 1.03 version. I'll have it up a bit later today.
 

GGoodrum

Member
Yes - I am looking at it now actually. I am a bit puzzled since you said it didn't happen with 1.03, but does with 1.5/1.6. I haven't seen anything that changed that should be related to that so far.

However - I am going to change back a couple things and post a test version - and would like you to try that if you don't mind. It should be exactly the same as 1.6 with one feature turned back to the 1.03 version. I'll have it up a bit later today.

Thanks, Dan. I will give that a try and report back. :)

-- Gary
 

thijmen5

Member
1 watt is fine, if I remember correctly. Sounds like you probably need a 3-turn. It should say on the pot you have now, no?

Specifications on the photohigher site say 10 turn. On the pot itself it only says 220T A. I'm thinking of going to a nearby electronic shop for a fitting replacement. I strongly hope they have something I need.
 

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