Mrtarango32
Member
I believe the frame is quality frame. That's why I'm getting just the frame itself.
CarbonCore Cortex....Owners' Thread
- Thread starter Quinton
- Start date
I believe the frame is quality frame. That's why I'm getting just the frame itself.
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Does look kinda similar!
3367 grams, including all screw and props/a2 flight controller.
If you want to add 2 6.2A Desire lipos on thats an extra 2 x 6200 (886g x2=1772g) which would bring it up to 5139 g without gimbal.
A single 8.3A lipo is 1134 10.4A is 1457g (based on Desire 35C)
Am going to do a couple of bench tests later today on these motors to see thrust/Amp draw with 15" and 16" props.
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Ok bench tests done, and hopefully some of the more experienced people that knows about motors can advice me here.
These motors are rated for 20A Max Continuous Current and 450W (180s is that seconds I presume)
What happens when a motor reaches or goes past its max, can it kill it or does it just reach the max and not go any further?
I did not want to goto 100% on the 16" for obvious reasons, until I had some feedback.
Tiger 15x5" props
25% 1.49A 37.3W 400g
50% 5A 124W 875g
75% 11.8 281W 1935g
100% 18.3 454W 2640g
Tiger 16x5.4" props
25% 1.53A 37.9W 410g
50% 5.95A 140W 1195g
75% 13.4 326W 2230-g
100% -- A --W --g (Did not test)
These motors are rated for 20A Max Continuous Current and 450W (180s is that seconds I presume)
What happens when a motor reaches or goes past its max, can it kill it or does it just reach the max and not go any further?
I did not want to goto 100% on the 16" for obvious reasons, until I had some feedback.
Tiger 15x5" props
25% 1.49A 37.3W 400g
50% 5A 124W 875g
75% 11.8 281W 1935g
100% 18.3 454W 2640g
Tiger 16x5.4" props
25% 1.53A 37.9W 410g
50% 5.95A 140W 1195g
75% 13.4 326W 2230-g
100% -- A --W --g (Did not test)
SoCal Blur
Member
My understanding of how motors work (and basic electronics) is that the motor will only draw the amount of current it needs and the most it can draw is what the manufacturer lists as the Max amps. It shouldn't draw anymore provided you stay within the recommended prop use. Even if you have a 40A power supply, for example, the motor will only draw 20A max. If you run the motor at max for a length of time, it will get hot. It is the heat that can damage the motor over time. Also, if the ESC's can't handle the continuous current draw from the motors, the ESCs could fail.
I'm sure there are those with much more experience with motors that can add more info.
Does CarboneCore actually have a point..
I have tested every motor with a simple servo tester, and each motor works perfectly. (Except the one with the blown ESC of course)
Without wanting to blow more ESCs, the CSC will eventually start the motors after 6 or 7 goes but at different times, and one or two would shoot up really high speed from a standstill which could have blown the ESC
Now I did calibrate throttle easily enough with all the motors at the start, and they all started together the first few flights.
I am not sure what my next step is, its hard to know especially when you do not know what ESCs are being used.
Could it really be an A2 problem?
He said the following..
Sorry to hear you are having more trouble.
My guess is, if the CSC would not work, then all the motors started at different times, this may be an A2 issue.
Many customers are having issues with the A2 making ESC calibration difficult.
Without building and flying the Cortex with an A2, myself, I'm not sure how to diagnose your problem sorry.
The ESC are 40A 25V 400Hz Multicopter ESC, Sold by many brands. The motors normally pull about 5A each in the hover.
Please persevere; Radio Controlled models are difficult and unforgiving.
I have tested every motor with a simple servo tester, and each motor works perfectly. (Except the one with the blown ESC of course)
Without wanting to blow more ESCs, the CSC will eventually start the motors after 6 or 7 goes but at different times, and one or two would shoot up really high speed from a standstill which could have blown the ESC
Now I did calibrate throttle easily enough with all the motors at the start, and they all started together the first few flights.
I am not sure what my next step is, its hard to know especially when you do not know what ESCs are being used.
Could it really be an A2 problem?
He said the following..
Sorry to hear you are having more trouble.
My guess is, if the CSC would not work, then all the motors started at different times, this may be an A2 issue.
Many customers are having issues with the A2 making ESC calibration difficult.
Without building and flying the Cortex with an A2, myself, I'm not sure how to diagnose your problem sorry.
The ESC are 40A 25V 400Hz Multicopter ESC, Sold by many brands. The motors normally pull about 5A each in the hover.
Please persevere; Radio Controlled models are difficult and unforgiving.
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Quality... just get ESC's that dont need calibrating and are designed for MR specifically
Dave
Well I was contemplating getting the Jeti Hi Copter Multicopter ESCs, they are quite expensive at £48 each, but they are not also made in China.
There is a new one being released from another famous company in the 2nd quarter of this year, that incorporates free-wheeling too which will be interesting, I was trying to hold off until then, but I may not have a choice now.
Looking at the bench tests, I should easily be able to get away with 30A optos or should I just stick with 40s?
OK I am into local sayings, but is that good or bad...and are you talking about the Jetis'?
Don't keep me in suspense regarding the RTH, did you find the same thing, or is it just the usual old me not doing something right.
If in doubt, blame it on the A2
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Ear u go dedicated to Quniton and allotter A2 testers… beat this!
http://www.multirotorforums.com/showthread.php?17811-The-A2-REAL-life-testing
Dave
http://www.multirotorforums.com/showthread.php?17811-The-A2-REAL-life-testing
Dave
quinton-socal-blur is correct. if you hit the limit of the motor for too long it will most likely heat up and fail after a certain point but certain motors can take more of a beating as long as there's air flow. either way i would just change the esc's like others mentioned. i would stick to 40a for peace of mind too much is better then not enough--always. i doubt you over amped the esc's though judging by your watt meter ratings and your test flight amp draw.. in the future you could reuse them so 40amp is safer then 30amp on different rigs if you change motors etc.
l i have blown an esc before. i hooked the battery up in reverse by accident. esc went poof when i was testing it. motor was fine but not esc. also its not good to run any motor to high or to long without props. there is no prop wash to cool the motors and other bad things can happen. since your motors are ok then just swap the esc's out and your good. make sure there all calibrated with same settings as far as timing goes. low voltage cut etc if there not preset opto.
another possibility is there is a short on the motor wires. if they touch when on they can cause a massive amp spike sending the motors into full throttle until esc goes, or battery disconnected. i believe its called thermal shutdown. i doubt its the a2 but bad esc's. which ever ones you get seem to come from china-lol. go with what people have success with with on bigger rigs.
l i have blown an esc before. i hooked the battery up in reverse by accident. esc went poof when i was testing it. motor was fine but not esc. also its not good to run any motor to high or to long without props. there is no prop wash to cool the motors and other bad things can happen. since your motors are ok then just swap the esc's out and your good. make sure there all calibrated with same settings as far as timing goes. low voltage cut etc if there not preset opto.
another possibility is there is a short on the motor wires. if they touch when on they can cause a massive amp spike sending the motors into full throttle until esc goes, or battery disconnected. i believe its called thermal shutdown. i doubt its the a2 but bad esc's. which ever ones you get seem to come from china-lol. go with what people have success with with on bigger rigs.
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Mrtarango32
Member
Not sure what motors I'm going to run. U7 u5 4210 4014s.
Mrtarango32
Member
How strong are the motor mounts? Pretty strong? Not sure if u7 will fit
Now lets see if its the Flight Controller or The ESCs.
In for a penny in for a pound.
Jeti Multicopter 40A ESCs
View attachment 16797
Not sure I am a fan of Bullet connectors soldered direct to the ESC.
I have never seen it so hard to remove the bullet connector from the ESC, it was so hard to disconnect the motor bullet connection from it, would be really easy to break the connector when its this tight.
Heres a pic of the blown ESC
View attachment 16798
In for a penny in for a pound.
Jeti Multicopter 40A ESCs
View attachment 16797
Not sure I am a fan of Bullet connectors soldered direct to the ESC.
I have never seen it so hard to remove the bullet connector from the ESC, it was so hard to disconnect the motor bullet connection from it, would be really easy to break the connector when its this tight.
Heres a pic of the blown ESC
View attachment 16798
Attachments
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I have now had enough of CarbonCore and their it is not our fault, you must be an idiot attitude.
After I removed the heatshrink from the blown ESC I noticed a hole in the side of it, this is where the ESC sits up against an ESC holder (sideways on)
I wanted to hear what CarbonCore said about this, as to me it looks like the bottom threads that go into the ESC holder actually went through the ESC.
This is the first time I have cut through the cable ties to have a look at all the ESCs, the one with the hole was the blown one, but another ESC holder simply came away,when I cut the cable tie, it was not bolted at all (picture 2+3)
Please remember this is an ARTF machine as I wanted to see exactly how it should be put together, all I am supposed to do is add the flight controller and fly away.
His usual, (It cant be us response posted below)
View attachment 16801View attachment 16802View attachment 16803
When sending pics, please use windows power toy or similar to resize them, I have very slow internet.
I do not understand how that problem was possible: The carbon piece that the ESC cable-ties to, does
not allow the bolt to go past the carbon.
The only thing I can imaging it that this part was not plugged-in to the slots in the lower frame plate,
and was pushed to to one-side, when bolting the upper plate, bringing the ESC into alignment with the now exposed bolt.
I build these with the carbon ESC plates pressed and glued and bolted with glue into the lower frame plates.
It is not possible for me to fit the ESC plates out of alignment: they are fitted to not fall-out otherwise fitting the top plate would not go smoothly.
I check very carefully that everything is correctly assembled to reduce the time I have to spend in customer support.
I can also see the from the cable-tie indents in the ESC heat shrink that the hole is not central to the cable tie spacing.
If the ESC was to fail from short-circuit, it would have done so when I tested them all, built-in the the Cortex, before posting.
If you are fitting ESCs not tested by myself, I can no longer provide customer support. I have promptly replied to at least 30 emails.
You have told me that you have had the Cortex to bits several times now.
Thank You,
After I removed the heatshrink from the blown ESC I noticed a hole in the side of it, this is where the ESC sits up against an ESC holder (sideways on)
I wanted to hear what CarbonCore said about this, as to me it looks like the bottom threads that go into the ESC holder actually went through the ESC.
This is the first time I have cut through the cable ties to have a look at all the ESCs, the one with the hole was the blown one, but another ESC holder simply came away,when I cut the cable tie, it was not bolted at all (picture 2+3)
Please remember this is an ARTF machine as I wanted to see exactly how it should be put together, all I am supposed to do is add the flight controller and fly away.
His usual, (It cant be us response posted below)
View attachment 16801View attachment 16802View attachment 16803
When sending pics, please use windows power toy or similar to resize them, I have very slow internet.
I do not understand how that problem was possible: The carbon piece that the ESC cable-ties to, does
not allow the bolt to go past the carbon.
The only thing I can imaging it that this part was not plugged-in to the slots in the lower frame plate,
and was pushed to to one-side, when bolting the upper plate, bringing the ESC into alignment with the now exposed bolt.
I build these with the carbon ESC plates pressed and glued and bolted with glue into the lower frame plates.
It is not possible for me to fit the ESC plates out of alignment: they are fitted to not fall-out otherwise fitting the top plate would not go smoothly.
I check very carefully that everything is correctly assembled to reduce the time I have to spend in customer support.
I can also see the from the cable-tie indents in the ESC heat shrink that the hole is not central to the cable tie spacing.
If the ESC was to fail from short-circuit, it would have done so when I tested them all, built-in the the Cortex, before posting.
If you are fitting ESCs not tested by myself, I can no longer provide customer support. I have promptly replied to at least 30 emails.
You have told me that you have had the Cortex to bits several times now.
Thank You,
Attachments
SoCal Blur
Member
Quinton, you must have photoshopped that bolt sticking through the CF plate because according to "this guy" he is perfect and cannot make a mistake.
It's too bad you can't just pack it all up and send it back to him and demand a refund.
It's too bad you can't just pack it all up and send it back to him and demand a refund.