CarbonCore Cortex....Owners' Thread

A couple of weeks ago.
The motor I have is only rated for 20A and 450W, this is why I was worried, as there is no data on this motor even for 16" props, so I had to accept what he was saying to me as tried and tested.
You mentioned in your other post that you had to replace 2 ESCs what was that about, and how did it come to that conclusion if you don't mind me asking?

Hi Quin, I am actually building this frame for a friend who crashed it! I ended up stripping it down and rebuilding it. Upon initial checks it looked like the only thing damaged was the gps mount, 2 props and 2 esc. So, all was replaced. The 2 new esc were replaced with CC replacements. I test flew with no payload and it was okay, but then with a 2kg payload it was struggling. I did a few more checks and found that two more esc were under performing, so today i will be replacing those and testing again.
 

personally- if u can't find the data from the manufacturer i would skip what he recommends period. he could just be selling you what he has but those motors should handle the light weight of the craft. if there goners go with u5's on 40amp turnigy plush esc's. proven setup- then enjoy your craft. i hope they were not simon k flashed esc's as well. try to re calibrate them first or test them but if you don't know what they are just swap em out for peace of mind.

you can calculate your amp draw easy.. convert you mah used to amp hours then multiply by 60 and divide by flight time...ex 7000 mah used in 15minutes... 7.0 X60=420/15=28amps then divide by amount of motors you case 8...so that would be avg of 3.5amps during that flight or avg 28amp draw during flight... incase you didn't know how..

These CC esc have no amp rating. I really do wonder if they are under rated (or just on the verge) for these motors. My friend said that the props barely touched the ground and the extra load on the motors was enough to blow the escs. I'm agreeing with Sk8erboy on this that it might be better to replace with some good 40a ones!
 

Quinton

Active Member
personally- if u can't find the data from the manufacturer i would skip what he recommends period. he could just be selling you what he has but those motors should handle the light weight of the craft. if there goners go with u5's on 40amp turnigy plush esc's. proven setup- then enjoy your craft. i hope they were not simon k flashed esc's as well. try to re calibrate them first or test them but if you don't know what they are just swap em out for peace of mind.

you can calculate your amp draw easy.. convert you mah used to amp hours then multiply by 60 and divide by flight time...ex 7000 mah used in 15minutes... 7.0 X60=420/15=28amps then divide by amount of motors you case 8...so that would be avg of 3.5amps during that flight or avg 28amp draw during flight... incase you didn't know how..

Well that gives you your average, I am more interested in what they are when hovering/full throttle etc.
I am not writing £500 worth of motors/ESCs off just yet.. but I will find out what the problem is, it could be something very simple, but lets just get the top off first.
@bunnygirl80 the ESCs should be fine, they are 40A 400 Hz Opto ESCs
 
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Well that gives you your average, I am more interested in what they are when hovering/full throttle etc.
I am not writing £500 worth of motors/ESCs off just yet.. but I will find out what the problem is, it could be something very simple, but lets just get the top off first.
@bunnygirl80 the ESCs should be fine, they are 40A 400 Hz Opto ESCs

Oh, super. Thanks for the confirmation on that! :)
 

Quinton

Active Member
OK Finally got the top of, the screw extractor did not work too well, so I had to use a dremmel to make a notch in it, then use a sharp screw driver to slowly get it unscrewed.
I played with everything, kept trying the CSC like 30 times, and the motors started to spin, stopped it and tried again and nothing..again kept trying and they started again eventually..
Then POP smoke started coming out of one of the ESCs

I'm sort of at a loss what to do now, as I am dreading contacting CC again, just to listen to more stuff about what have I done now, and I told you not to use the A2 FC etc.
 

sk8brd

Member
Yo bud- if that flight was just hovering around and taken it easy then thats around your hover draw. Which is no where near 40amps per arm so safe to say you didnt over amp the esc under those conditions.

Now you still didnt say what throttle percent you were at hover if you were at 20% or some crazy **** like that at hover and punched it then this could acount for a change of situation

Sorry to hear about the esc. I would check the esc power wires to see if there are enough insulation around them. carbon fiber is conductive. if a battery is hooked up in reverse it could do that to the esc. Not saying you did of course just saying.

Being that both of ya are having esc issues coming from same place safe bet there defective. Replace with ones used by many without problems. Seriously!:)
 
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Quinton

Active Member
When I had no weight on there and 2x 6.2A lipos it actually hovered 1 notch below 50% so I would say 45% (I thought it would be much less.
With the 2.5KG weight on there, it was about 60%, I don't like to look down at the controller too long when in manual mode.
I flew for 9 mins and used 8020 mAh on the flight in the video with the weight.
I had 1 flight just before that with no weight and 2x 6.2 A lipos, and that was for 14 mins havent charged those lipos yet, but I would say it will be around 7200 mAh

I was surprised at the loaded one, as when the 1st level voltage alarm came on at 22v I landed and checked the batteries manually, and there was almost 1V difference between hovering and on the ground, thats why I tried to lift off again for a few seconds just to confirm, but the motors would not start.
With my Skyjib there is only .5V to .6V difference between flying and landed with a 3kg payload.
 
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Mrtarango32

Member
Why would he say the a2 gives it issues? Weird. There are a bunch of people using the a2 on x8 builds. Why would his frame be any different.
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
I have to disagree with you - I would have no expectation that engaging RTH on an aircraft that is stationary on the ground would cause it to take off so that it can land again where it already is! It's completely counter-intuitive and therefore dangerous. And, in coding terms, easily fixed:
Code:
:::pseudo:::
if{currentPosition == homePosition} do nothing;

Good Lord... DJI still haven't done this yet? We did this like 2 years ago! I agree with your statements exactly Jes. This is a simple case of the system designer not considering the real-world usage, and not implementing a very simple fix.
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
And you deffo wrote that change to the FC? Its a fine line here. If the copter has not shut down before the 5 secs is up and FS is hit I dont see how it can know NOT to go to failsafe.

It's trivial to code this. And I have no formal programming education.
 


R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
This is the problem with all these typical Meccano-like multirotors, gimbals, etc. If you build something that anybody could build in their basement, then people will copy your design.
 

Jumpy07

Member

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Mrtarango32

Member
Ya if it doesn't fit on the inside. I might look for another type of board. If not I'll run it on the bottom. Outside the frame. Trying my best on not having a rats nest of wires inside.
 

Quinton

Active Member
Yeah, the current PCB they use is 55mm, the gryphon is 100mm, saying that you could get rid of the regulators inside the Cortex with that, and maybe look at pushing the ESC holders back a bit.
Will be awkward though I would imagine.
I emailed CC about the ESC today, but no reply and they don't usually email at the weekends.
If you are going to use an A2 FC then you may want to have the GPS puck on sticks, as its a lot bigger than the Wookong one.
Like you said, a little place underneath the frame would have been the best place for the PDB

Also I had a look at the 12mm holes they add for the Zenmuse today, which is protected with a rubber grommet.
It looks as though it was cut out with a spoon, very rough.
 

Droider

Drone Enthusiast
Why does everyone look for cheap stuff to fly expensive stuff!? If your business plan and costings dont allow for investment in quality no mither equipment then go find something else to earn wedge from, like house cleaning.. Applying those costing models in this game wont work. Looking at the rats nests and poor quality components in the various images in this thread send shivers down my spine..

I have held back from commenting on here but come on guys take a step back and look at the bigger picture.. Quinton you have a huge investment in camera equipment why compromise it.

Dave
 

Mrtarango32

Member
Yeah, the current PCB they use is 55mm, the gryphon is 100mm, saying that you could get rid of the regulators inside the Cortex with that, and maybe look at pushing the ESC holders back a bit.
Will be awkward though I would imagine.
I emailed CC about the ESC today, but no reply and they don't usually email at the weekends.
If you are going to use an A2 FC then you may want to have the GPS puck on sticks, as its a lot bigger than the Wookong one.
Like you said, a little place underneath the frame would have been the best place for the PDB

Also I had a look at the 12mm holes they add for the Zenmuse today, which is protected with a rubber grommet.
It looks as though it was cut out with a spoon, very rough.

Not very good news to hear about their QC. Not difficult to drill two wholes nicely and easily.
 

Quinton

Active Member
Why does everyone look for cheap stuff to fly expensive stuff!? If your business plan and costings dont allow for investment in quality no mither equipment then go find something else to earn wedge from, like house cleaning.. Applying those costing models in this game wont work. Looking at the rats nests and poor quality components in the various images in this thread send shivers down my spine..

I have held back from commenting on here but come on guys take a step back and look at the bigger picture.. Quinton you have a huge investment in camera equipment why compromise it.

Dave

I know what your saying, was thinking of biting the bullet, and going with a new PDB u5 motors and better ESCs, like I wanted to do right from the start.
I like the idea of being really light, just wish this would have worked from the get go.

I thought this could work, obviously so far it hasn't but I have learned a big lesson, but its not over yet.
The design of the Cortex is actually quite clever.

I will do a few bench tests now, and take it from there...not sure what I will do next, but I know I have had a skinful the last few days and need to step back and see what the best options are.
For all the things people say about the Droidworx, it is solid.

I am sort of stuck at the moment, what is happening is really bad timing.
Its a lesson learned though, be it an expensive one...again!
 

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