CarbonCore Cortex....Owners' Thread
- Thread starter Quinton
- Start date
Mrtarango32
Member
Quinton,
They're only a few grams heavier then the 4014. I believe it's 3grams.
And the u7 are 256g heavy. And they're currently all out of stock.
I'm gonna use u5 on here and see how it goes. But so far it should be a nice build
They're only a few grams heavier then the 4014. I believe it's 3grams.
And the u7 are 256g heavy. And they're currently all out of stock.
I'm gonna use u5 on here and see how it goes. But so far it should be a nice build
I thought it was 44g per motor.
The 4010-14 are 112g the u5 are 156g, and also the CC motors have a lot shorter cables, so at least 352g for 8 motors.
You may be looking at the 330 KV ones which are 149g
Mrtarango32
Member
Sorry I was looking at the 4014-11 not the 4010-14
Mrtarango32
Member
And I'll be shorting every wire as possible. It'd be interesting to compare the weight of my build and your CC build.
bunnygirl80
Member
Hi Jeremy,
Thanks for the suggestion on the gains. I did try higher gains, but as this frame is running a Naza v2 they had very little success. Cameron has been kind enough to email me some Naza gains from another client who is using a Naza and they are pretty low and work pretty well as a starting point, but there is still minor wobbles. My main concern now is that the Naza doesnt have the ability to offset the IMU and it should be positioned as close as possible to the CG, which in the case of the Cortex its not easily achievable. So, this could be the contributing factor to why it is wobbling a little. I'm actually thinking the Naza might not be the best FC for this frame as you do need the ability to offset the IMU. Moving the PDB away from the center so that the Naza can be fitted there is not a viable option I don't think. I may recommend that the FC be upgraded to a WKM!
Thanks for the suggestion on the gains. I did try higher gains, but as this frame is running a Naza v2 they had very little success. Cameron has been kind enough to email me some Naza gains from another client who is using a Naza and they are pretty low and work pretty well as a starting point, but there is still minor wobbles. My main concern now is that the Naza doesnt have the ability to offset the IMU and it should be positioned as close as possible to the CG, which in the case of the Cortex its not easily achievable. So, this could be the contributing factor to why it is wobbling a little. I'm actually thinking the Naza might not be the best FC for this frame as you do need the ability to offset the IMU. Moving the PDB away from the center so that the Naza can be fitted there is not a viable option I don't think. I may recommend that the FC be upgraded to a WKM!
When you say wobbles, what exactly do you mean, and what sort of weight are you carrying, do the wobbles come when your are flying or stationary, or descending or what?
If you wanted to move your IMU there is the possibility to put it on top.
Another possibility is to actually put it underneath, if you added spacers and a little platform.
Can you post any videos of these wobbles?
naza is not the greatest choice for a rig this size nor any big rig really. I've seen it done before on custom frame multi setups with bigger motors/props then whats being used on the cortex but the general consensus is on a rig like this wkm/a2 would be a better fit as reasons you mentioned.
i would try remote gains on your radio and see if you could tune it out. i would bring up the gains till it oscillates rapidly then back it off till it doesn't shake. i would try same size props all around as well see if that sorts it. i don't know of many using different sized props on co axial setups. the video posted here looked smooth so i know it can work but maybe not on naza unless its centered.
i would try remote gains on your radio and see if you could tune it out. i would bring up the gains till it oscillates rapidly then back it off till it doesn't shake. i would try same size props all around as well see if that sorts it. i don't know of many using different sized props on co axial setups. the video posted here looked smooth so i know it can work but maybe not on naza unless its centered.
ElectriFlite
New Member
Oh well, it was worth a try. The WKM is hard to beat and I've heard from a number of sources that the Naza does not seem well suited to larger machines, although I've not tried one on a big multi myself. It may well be that placing the IMU smack in the middle will help and challenges can be fun, but at the end of the day, a WKM is probably the way to go. I quite fancy trying a 3DR PixHawk on a Cortex...next build maybe...
This is my latest build (my first Cortex). I've been a long time fan of CarbonCore frames and am a reseller, so could be accused of being biased, but this has to be my favourite multi so far; it makes me look like a half decent pilot :tennis:
View attachment 16990
This is my latest build (my first Cortex). I've been a long time fan of CarbonCore frames and am a reseller, so could be accused of being biased, but this has to be my favourite multi so far; it makes me look like a half decent pilot :tennis:
View attachment 16990
Attachments
I am in no way trying to put the Cortex down, but I found really small things that you kind of know that can be improved, and I am sure that Cortex version 2 will be a really great frame.
The reason why I bought the Cortex is because I wanted a multi rotor under 7KGs that could also carry a decent camera, the Cortex will be it, I am not even sure there is anything out there that can easily accomplish this.
The Cortex should still be under 7KGs even with a GH3/4 and a Zenmuse using smaller lipos.
I am currently putting my retracts back together after having to get new servo gear holders as they had stripped and stopped the retracts from working, the A2 can be partially blamed for that, as when I "thought" I had it all sorted on the bench, the one time I had it standing on its own and powered it up it went down, and probably stripped the plastic gear.
Would an all metal gear have helped, yes without doubt, but we live and learn.
And if anyone ever has to take the retracts apart, it is like a small rubics cube, and so fidgety and time consuming, 18 pieces per retract, but then again hopefully no one should have to take the retracts apart.
The ESC holders, I would have really liked if you could actually screw bolts into something more than what you have there already, it may be fine if you are only doing it once, but the 2nd time there is a lot less bite there, and glue is required to hold the bolt in place.
The actual A2 bolts that go into the frame, personally I think they are only to be used once or twice max, as they are really easy to round off, and if you have to get your lid open in the future they can and will cause problems, however now I know about I have just stocked up on plenty of screws each of the size.
The PDB is really tiny, and the way you can simply laminate them together to make 100, 200 even 300A boards is really good, only problem with it is that if you have ESCs go in the future and you have to solder new ones on, it can be really awkward.
The 14 gauge wires struggle to go through the holes, I am sure it would be a LOT better if you are starting with a clean PDB, but for someone like me who may not be the best at soldering it did cause me a few struggles.
In a way I am actually glad I had problems, as it gave me a good chance to see exactly how its put together, it may not be the perfect solution, but once you know its drawbacks, then they are not as bad. Again hopefully Carbon Core will take into account any feedback their users give them, and improve on them.
The actual design of the frame itself I actually love, I have the Zenmuse retracts which are a lot longer than the normal ones, if they could be detachable, then you could carry whole X8 in a backpack, it is that small.
The way the motors fold in is really nice, now hopefully it wont be a problem long term, but at the moment I can not see any problems at all with that.
The debate regarding what Flight Controller to use should not actually even have come about, getting hold of Wookongs in the UK, is getting pretty hard, and I am sure in the future it will be almost impossible.
There should be an xt60 connection coming from the power board so you can easily fit the Wookong or A2 directly into it, saying that the flight controllers do not come with these connections is a bit strange, as any I have seen have always had them, unless you are using a Naza, which is probably not recommended.
If you are using the A2 then you will need to consider where your puck will be placed, as it is a good bit bigger than the Wookongs, there are plenty of holes on top, so an easy solution is to put it onto one the the retractable poles you can get from Asia easily on Ebay, problem is they take quite a while to arrive.
There is not a lot of room just to stick it on top, as your lipos will be very close to it, depending on what size you use.
If you are using lipos that already have XT90 or other connectors, then you will need to make a converter to fit onto the XT60s that come on the ARTF ones, but thats not a big deal, I am just mentioning it as it is not clear before you buy.
Hope this helps anyone else that is considering buying the Cortex, it does have small drawbacks, but it also has a LOT of good things, and now hopefully I can get it back up into the air this week.
BTW before I had problems I did try out 16" on top and bottom but it did not seem to like that so much.
The 15" on top and bottom actually went pretty well, just as well as the 15/16 together, would be very interesting to give it a go with those motor mixed settings just to see, but when I was testing I did not seem to have any problems yawing.
Once I get up and runnng again I will try and get it flying nicely and sorting the gains out, as long as we get better weather soon!
The reason why I bought the Cortex is because I wanted a multi rotor under 7KGs that could also carry a decent camera, the Cortex will be it, I am not even sure there is anything out there that can easily accomplish this.
The Cortex should still be under 7KGs even with a GH3/4 and a Zenmuse using smaller lipos.
I am currently putting my retracts back together after having to get new servo gear holders as they had stripped and stopped the retracts from working, the A2 can be partially blamed for that, as when I "thought" I had it all sorted on the bench, the one time I had it standing on its own and powered it up it went down, and probably stripped the plastic gear.
Would an all metal gear have helped, yes without doubt, but we live and learn.
And if anyone ever has to take the retracts apart, it is like a small rubics cube, and so fidgety and time consuming, 18 pieces per retract, but then again hopefully no one should have to take the retracts apart.
The ESC holders, I would have really liked if you could actually screw bolts into something more than what you have there already, it may be fine if you are only doing it once, but the 2nd time there is a lot less bite there, and glue is required to hold the bolt in place.
The actual A2 bolts that go into the frame, personally I think they are only to be used once or twice max, as they are really easy to round off, and if you have to get your lid open in the future they can and will cause problems, however now I know about I have just stocked up on plenty of screws each of the size.
The PDB is really tiny, and the way you can simply laminate them together to make 100, 200 even 300A boards is really good, only problem with it is that if you have ESCs go in the future and you have to solder new ones on, it can be really awkward.
The 14 gauge wires struggle to go through the holes, I am sure it would be a LOT better if you are starting with a clean PDB, but for someone like me who may not be the best at soldering it did cause me a few struggles.
In a way I am actually glad I had problems, as it gave me a good chance to see exactly how its put together, it may not be the perfect solution, but once you know its drawbacks, then they are not as bad. Again hopefully Carbon Core will take into account any feedback their users give them, and improve on them.
The actual design of the frame itself I actually love, I have the Zenmuse retracts which are a lot longer than the normal ones, if they could be detachable, then you could carry whole X8 in a backpack, it is that small.
The way the motors fold in is really nice, now hopefully it wont be a problem long term, but at the moment I can not see any problems at all with that.
The debate regarding what Flight Controller to use should not actually even have come about, getting hold of Wookongs in the UK, is getting pretty hard, and I am sure in the future it will be almost impossible.
There should be an xt60 connection coming from the power board so you can easily fit the Wookong or A2 directly into it, saying that the flight controllers do not come with these connections is a bit strange, as any I have seen have always had them, unless you are using a Naza, which is probably not recommended.
If you are using the A2 then you will need to consider where your puck will be placed, as it is a good bit bigger than the Wookongs, there are plenty of holes on top, so an easy solution is to put it onto one the the retractable poles you can get from Asia easily on Ebay, problem is they take quite a while to arrive.
There is not a lot of room just to stick it on top, as your lipos will be very close to it, depending on what size you use.
If you are using lipos that already have XT90 or other connectors, then you will need to make a converter to fit onto the XT60s that come on the ARTF ones, but thats not a big deal, I am just mentioning it as it is not clear before you buy.
Hope this helps anyone else that is considering buying the Cortex, it does have small drawbacks, but it also has a LOT of good things, and now hopefully I can get it back up into the air this week.
BTW before I had problems I did try out 16" on top and bottom but it did not seem to like that so much.
The 15" on top and bottom actually went pretty well, just as well as the 15/16 together, would be very interesting to give it a go with those motor mixed settings just to see, but when I was testing I did not seem to have any problems yawing.
Once I get up and runnng again I will try and get it flying nicely and sorting the gains out, as long as we get better weather soon!
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SamaraMedia
Active Member
![URL]](http://[URL="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1092x265q90/13/tjbu.jpg"]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1092x265q90/13/tjbu.jpg[/URL])
SwarfWorks
Member
Hey Quinton, let me see how many times I can quote you in one post :tennis:
I second that. If you do, just take one side apart at a time so you have something to reference.
I ordered a bunch of stainless Torx screws for mine as someone else suggested. I just like Torx better anyway. I have had a couple get really close to being stripped (the hex head part). I found that heating the head with a soldering iron for about 20 seconds warms the Loc-tite enough that they come out ok.
I totally agree. It's a slick setup being able to rotate the arms in to transport. I think it's pretty strong, though I don't have a lot to compare it to.
Exactly. I just put my puck on one of those folding masts today. I know it says in the instructions that it isn't needed, but I think it is better to get it away from the other electronics. Plus, my dual 8,000mah packs were pushed right up to it, so it could have been possible for them to slightly block the GPS.
I haven't noticed this phenomenon yet either. If I do, I'll certainly give it a go.
Ughh... Tell me about it. I about froze today flying it at 29 degrees Fahrenheit. It was 2 degrees F this morning. lol
View attachment 16991View attachment 16992
I second that. If you do, just take one side apart at a time so you have something to reference.
I ordered a bunch of stainless Torx screws for mine as someone else suggested. I just like Torx better anyway. I have had a couple get really close to being stripped (the hex head part). I found that heating the head with a soldering iron for about 20 seconds warms the Loc-tite enough that they come out ok.
I totally agree. It's a slick setup being able to rotate the arms in to transport. I think it's pretty strong, though I don't have a lot to compare it to.
Exactly. I just put my puck on one of those folding masts today. I know it says in the instructions that it isn't needed, but I think it is better to get it away from the other electronics. Plus, my dual 8,000mah packs were pushed right up to it, so it could have been possible for them to slightly block the GPS.
I haven't noticed this phenomenon yet either. If I do, I'll certainly give it a go.
Ughh... Tell me about it. I about froze today flying it at 29 degrees Fahrenheit. It was 2 degrees F this morning. lol
View attachment 16991View attachment 16992
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SwarfWorks
Member
Here's a little video while I was testing the retracts today.
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Mrtarango32
Member
Where were you guys buying the torx screws?
Mrtarango32
Member
Nice looks good. Is that CC retract regulator working good? Debating if I'll need to get one or just go with the 5v from rx
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SwarfWorks
Member
Honestly, I'm not using it. I've got a bit more to do to the retracts, then I'll post some more info on it. Any regulator should work just fine if you don't want to power it off the rx, which is probably safer not to.
SwarfWorks
Member
I ordered them from here. Shipping from UK to US was insane, but the screws are quite inexpensive. Hopefully they'll arrive soon.
http://www.pts-uk.com/Products/Machine_Screws_TX_Countersunk_Machine_Screws
You should have said, I would have sent you some over (although I stupidly did not order the torx) Thanks goes to Jes111 for that link.
CC did say to heat them up a bit with a lighter, which is not so easy to do depending what angle you are at, so using a soldering iron is a really nice tip. although it was too late for me.
On a side note, I changed the servo gear lever on the retracts yesterday, and actually one of them that I had not touched yet the little bolt that goes into the plastic was missing.
There was a bolt mark on the plastic so there probably was a bolt to begin with but it did not seem to be loctited in so just keep an eye on that.
Maybe we should start a Cortex flyers FB page so we don't hijack this thread too much with tips/tricks?