Zero UAV Zero UAV YS-X6 [Owners Thread] *Autopilot system for multirotors*

johnno

johnno

Member
socratic said:
Hi John,
I threw a GoPro on with some fishing weights to equal the weight of the 5N - didn't bother to balance it all that well since I will be putting the 5N back on. A little drifting that I will need to address - I may need to redo compass calibration - the two circles were not on top of one another but I though "close enough." Guess not. These are the motors from the Steadi470 - they are VERY quiet. Need to also balance props - I could see some imbalance just prior to take off. FYI - there is actually an earlier take off that only lasted 20 seconds or so. I ran into a similar issue you mention - seemed to tilt to the left. I landed and started again. I found that giving a bit more throttle rather than just aileron seems to help. But if you are too close to the ground when it happens - well....... Not sure exactly what is going on with that, but once it starts flying and is a few meters above the ground, it seems very stable. Maybe it just need to clear the ground cushion? The guy who built the Ecilop recommends using two seperate heading gyros - one each for roll and pitch servos. I am using the 2nd IMU from the Steadi and it seems to be working very well. The ice is getting pretty thin so I need to find a big field to run the rest of the testing with the 5N attached. FYI, I also put together a fixed wing over the winter for additional FPVing. Been practicing on the simulator. Don't think my stomach can handle goggles though - those light planes really bounce around a lot!
Click to expand...

Jim, when you do a Compass Cal how good is the end result? I have never managed to do one that is perfect i.e. no gaps, complete overlap I have never got it as its pictured in the manual I even made up a stand on casters and that gave me a bit better result. I can keep the LED on in horizontal but vertical no way and they say when the led goes out keep moving but I dont know.I just have to wait for parts for mine which will be a couple of weeks I suppose. cheers. john,
 


S

socratic

Member
johnno said:
Jim, when you do a Compass Cal how good is the end result? I have never managed to do one that is perfect i.e. no gaps, complete overlap I have never got it as its pictured in the manual I even made up a stand on casters and that gave me a bit better result. I can keep the LED on in horizontal but vertical no way and they say when the led goes out keep moving but I dont know.I just have to wait for parts for mine which will be a couple of weeks I suppose. cheers. john,
Click to expand...
Hi John, the last time I did a calibration with the installed on the Steadi470, I got the two circles pretty close. This time I updated the firmware to the most recent release (this month) and didn't get as good a calibration. I will try again and see if I can actually get the circles to be on top of one another. Right now they are off set a bit but both pretty close to centered. Took me a while to figure out that "many seconds" to save the data then display should read "many minutes" as it takes a while for the circles to show up at all. I was too quick on my first tries and re calibrated - probably had it right on! By the time I realized my mistake, I was woosise from all the spinning! BYW - forgot to mention, I was flying in auto hover mode for my test. Jim
 


johnno

johnno

Member
Hi Simon, It must be sense of feeling good all over when that happens, I cant wait to do the same, clear day in the UK bit strange isnt it? its just got bitterly cold over here overcast conditions and light rain, So I just fly a little ladybird inside instead.
Cheers, John.
 

S

socratic

Member
View attachment 10902

John, This is about as good as I seem to be able to get it. Just did this one since I was having some issues with toilet bowl effect. Haven't tried the quad since resetting compass though. I'll let you know how it goes. Jim

Update....got out and tested things out. Pretty stable! Awaiting a replacement prop - one has a tip busted off! But things went surprisingly well. Except hardly any AILERON control when in GPS Mode. Worked fine in Manual and Manual Stabilizer - but hardly any control in gps???? Any ideas Rob? Here is a link if you are curious. http://youtu.be/2jj045WVLp4 Oh, almost forgot, anyone know how to setup the flight controller to shut down immediately if throttle is brought to 0. It takes about 3-5 seconds for this thing to shut down! Kind of have to keep flying it after it lands!!! Not too good a feature.

joh nno;100256 said:
Jim, when you do a Compass Cal how good is the end result? I have never managed to do one that is perfect i.e. no gaps, complete overlap I have never got it as its pictured in the manual I even made up a stand on casters and that gave me a bit better result. I can keep the LED on in horizontal but vertical no way and they say when the led goes out keep moving but I dont know.I just have to wait for parts for mine which will be a couple of weeks I suppose. cheers. john,
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • compasas2.jpg
    compasas2.jpg
    26.9 KB · Views: 385
Last edited by a moderator:

johnno

johnno

Member
Hi Jim, I have manganed to get them closer togther but mine have had more gaps in them, Its got to work there are to many of them out there I bought an X4 and just about to start a build on a new frame so when it gets up and running it will be interesting to do a compass cal on it. The Aust rep is over at Zero at the moment so just waiting for him to get me my parts for the Steadi and we will have another go but your machine looks good dont know about the reduced aileron control in GPS Mode certailt looks ok in the atti modes.john.
 

S

socratic

Member
johnno said:
Hi Jim, I have manganed to get them closer togther but mine have had more gaps in them, Its got to work there are to many of them out there I bought an X4 and just about to start a build on a new frame so when it gets up and running it will be interesting to do a compass cal on it. The Aust rep is over at Zero at the moment so just waiting for him to get me my parts for the Steadi and we will have another go but your machine looks good dont know about the reduced aileron control in GPS Mode certailt looks ok in the atti modes.john.
Click to expand...

I think the gaps are probably caused by the light turning off - not holding the quad steady enough? I was having a lot of trouble pointing the quad down (vertical alignment) and turning and keeping the light on, so I just placed it on a swivel chair so that the blue light came on and stayed on. I was able to hold it and sit in the chair for the horizontal alignment.
 



S

socratic

Member
Hey Guys - been trying to figure out an issue I am having. I have a feeling either it is a dumb question or no one seems to be able to help - because I haven't received any feedback on RCGroups.com or from Zero support (HJ file sent in). Has anyone used the YS-X6 on "course lock" or easy mode? If you have, does that limit the control of the aileron? The issue I am having is that on manual and manual attitude everything works ok. When I switch to GPS Auto Hover, I loose almost all my lateral control of the quad. I thought maybe this is due to being stuck in course lock where lateral control might be limited due to the nature of the feature???? No way for me to test this. I know that Rob flies in GPS all the time - I'd appreciate him weighing in on this. Here is a video of the issue.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

W

Woomera

Member
Dale UK said:
Hi Vulcan

Guess I'm at about the same stage you are in learning the YS-X6 - and I had exactly the same problem during set-up just a few nights ago.

I totally solved this by calibrating the esc's all together on the multi using the set-up guide on the Android GS program. They don't call it esc calibration in 'chinglish' it's referred to as esc 'stroke calibration' (haha!!!) anyway ....

You MUST only power on the Zero mini wi-fi and the AP control unit first (DO NOT power the esc's at the beginning) - this is what the funny split power lead allows you to do (I mistakenly hard wired everything to the main battery supply terminals to begin with - but I now know that's not a good ides.

GOOD SAFE PRACTICE IS TO REMOVE THE PROPS FOR THIS PART - or tie the beast down and avoid possible prop contact (although motors should not fire)!!!

Go to settings, go to installation guide, acknowledge data connection, skip the rest and get to esc stroke calibration. Follow the slightly bad english instructions at the top of the guide screen - (from memory it's .....) setting the throttle at full - then plug in power to esc's - let them beep, beep etc - then throttle down to minimum - go next and skip through everything else until you pop out of the 'guide'. Then remove all power to YS-X6 and re power up .......

Did that work?? (fingers crossed)

Dale UK
Click to expand...

Dale, I too have got stuck at the same place of the installation process. But your English rather than Zero's Engrish explanation has cleared it up for me. Just one question though. I wired my ESC's straight into the battery terminals as well, so as you can appreciate, powering up without the ESC's is a problem. If I removed the props, do you think there'd be any problems with the ESC calibration with the ESC's powered and the motors running?

Cheers,

James.
 

R

robone

Member
Woomera said:
Dale, I too have got stuck at the same place of the installation process. But your English rather than Zero's Engrish explanation has cleared it up for me. Just one question though. I wired my ESC's straight into the battery terminals as well, so as you can appreciate, powering up without the ESC's is a problem. If I removed the props, do you think there'd be any problems with the ESC calibration with the ESC's powered and the motors running?

Cheers,

James.
Click to expand...

I posted the method on the RCgroups post that you made.

I suggest that you somehow separate the connection to the ESC/Motors and obviously you must always remove the props when calibrating the ESC's
 

W

Woomera

Member
robone said:
I posted the method on the RCgroups post that you made.

I suggest that you somehow separate the connection to the ESC/Motors and obviously you must always remove the props when calibrating the ESC's
Click to expand...

Thanks Rob, I'll check it out.

James.
 

Dale UK

Dale UK

Member
Hi James

'bite the bullet' on an hour or so of your re-build time and split the power supply to the ESC's - it will save you wearing out your motor shaft threads, encourage you to do more tuning and experimentation (which is a good thing) and MIGHT save you an unwelcome trip to A&E one day !

cheers, Dale
 


M

maikpa

Member
Hello robone
Iuse the system in greece and olso with the ather,i use the same router TP-Link WR941ND with you,and my phone is ASUS PADFONE and i try to condakt with wifi (i use the old one)and nathink hapen it is poseble to send my the seting in the router,step bay step
thenks Maik
 


R

robone

Member
maikpa said:
Hello robone
Iuse the system in greece and olso with the ather,i use the same router TP-Link WR941ND with you,and my phone is ASUS PADFONE and i try to condakt with wifi (i use the old one)and nathink hapen it is poseble to send my the seting in the router,step bay step
thenks Maik
Click to expand...

Here are the settings for my Router

View attachment 11850
View attachment 11851
 

Attachments

  • a5776163-152-screenshot.149.jpg
    a5776163-152-screenshot.149.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 206
  • a5776164-249-screenshot.148.jpg
    a5776164-249-screenshot.148.jpg
    77.4 KB · Views: 225


You must log in or register to reply here.
Top