Zero UAV Zero UAV YS-X6 [Owners Thread] *Autopilot system for multirotors*

I will put my answer next to it.

1. I am using a Futaba 7C which has 1 3 way switch and 1 2 way switch. You don't need what is called the stabilisation mode (Manual Mode 2) as this is really just an altitude hold mode. I fly in Manual mode 1 which has full attitude mode and then switch to GPS mode.

2. The easiest solution is a wifi router, and unless you are going the data link route, using a router will at least give you a bit more range.

3. All the distributors sell them, although, in most countries they are illegal, which means Europe and the UK

4. Y
es as power comes from the AP unit. Dont cut them, just remove them from the plug and seal them.
Cheers Rob

Thanks Rob,

1. That makes me happy and saves me buying a $450 transmitter. I wonder if I can fly only in Manual mode 2 (stabilization) and GPS modes then and skip the manual 1 mode. I like the idea of my hex staying on altitude when ever I let go of the sticks but so I can still fly it around. (I'll be having a $2000 camera strapped to it eventually see)

2. I think the data link route will suit me best. Looks like nicwilke has posted a solution that alloows for skipping the router and using data link.

3. I'm in Australia. So not sure about legality. Why illegal?

4. That was my plan. I can't see myself using them elsewhere but just in case I don't like burning bridges and reducing my options later.

Cheers
 

1. Change the IP range on the WiFi unit.
First be sure that you have connection to the WiFi-link, easiest to use a router and your PC on the existing YS-X6-XXXXX network we have all made up. Then in your we browser, type URL as 192.168.1.254 this wil show you the login screen of the wifi link.
username and password are the same: "admin"

Once inside the wifi link, Change on the top to English for easier reading ;)

At the top right of the screen, go to setup (3rd link accross) and then scroll down and change the local IP to your desired IP address and press SAVE (for the Galaxy series TAB2/S3 make it: 192.168.43.254 )

Re-power the wifi unit and you should be able to connect directly your Samsung or any other device that use the same IP range x.x.43.x
I use an app called FoxFi, its simply an app to shortcut the 'activation' of the hotspot.
If you have any issues in connecting the phone to the ground datalink via the wifi module, you may need to go into the GCS app, and in the settings (network settings) change the network IP to 192.168.43.254.

Any issues, remember that once changed, the wifi module will have the new address, so write it with permanent pen on the bottom of the unit so you dont forget.

Does this help fellas? :thumbup:

I hope so. When I get to this stage I'll be trying what you've suggested.

Are you using data radios?

By the way I'm in the Grampians (West Vic) so we're not that far away.
 

nicwilke

Active Member
I hope so. When I get to this stage I'll be trying what you've suggested.

Are you using data radios?

By the way I'm in the Grampians (West Vic) so we're not that far away.
Grampians!!! Cool, was planning a trip to Adelaide later this year, and possibly stopping off there on the way. If so, will look you up. Yes, I'm using Data link now, so have the wifi module taped to the datalink, and a 3S 5000mah lipo powering that as a little GCS interface unit, and use a Galaxy S3 to run GCS. I dont use a router. Are you interested in a Data link? I have a spare on the way next week and could sell you it new.
 


Grampians!!! Cool, was planning a trip to Adelaide later this year, and possibly stopping off there on the way. If so, will look you up. Yes, I'm using Data link now, so have the wifi module taped to the datalink, and a 3S 5000mah lipo powering that as a little GCS interface unit, and use a Galaxy S3 to run GCS. I dont use a router. Are you interested in a Data link? I have a spare on the way next week and could sell you it new.

Yeah if you come through give me a hoy. I'm in Halls Gap.

Is the data link your using the actual ys-x6 ones? (aren't they sold in pairs) Or do you use something else?

As for your setup, wifi, data link, battery, no router etc etc ... I'd be interested in seeing pics of your system layed out. Sounds like what I'm trying to achieve with mine.

My RC history is limited to the last 12 months flying plane EPO foamies. So this whole multi-rotor - Zero UAV things is very new to me. But I'm pretty keen to my DSLR up in the air. I'm finding the GoPro from my 1400mm cub is very limiting.

Not sure on the upgrades yet... I don't even know what my setup can do yet by itself.

Cheers
 

nicwilke

Active Member
Yes, pair of data links, one on board, one on ground connected to the wifi module (which is acting as the wireless link of the phone to datalink).
I'm 12 months in front of you then, been into multirotors 12 months only, and now doing some cool things now I've sorted the junk from the good. You've chosen a top-notch autopilot system. I started on Xaircraft stuff, and spent probably the equvelant to a YS system and droidworx frame in just trying to get it to do some good stuff... Then moved to the pro gear. Never looked back:
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Cool Vid. Nice! That's your rig in the vid I'm guessing?

When you get some time I'd love a pic of your ground setup. If your willing that is.

So do you have a pair of ys data link radios for sale then next week?

I've started with the Talon V2 hex frame from Hobby king. A. because I get all my plane stuff from them and B. it seemed a strong yet affordable platform to start with. If I need to progress down the track I can move my electrics over.

I've got my retract system to complete (servo setup) and then the only thing stopping me from flying is the auto-pilot / transmitter setup. From what I've read in various places though can potentially be the hardest part hence I'm on here finding out more.
 

nicwilke

Active Member
Yeah, its my rig...
That Talon hex is a good frame, you cant go wrong with it.
dont worry too much with the setup, just follow the manual as best as possible. Choose your setup for hex (+ or X) depending one what the manual says, and make sure you do the initial setup guide with no props on. Calibrate the ESC's thru the YS setup, and make sure that channel 5 has 3 positions, and channel 6 has 3 positions on the switches. Its not as hard as it looks, and since you're using a decent frame, you wont be too far off flying.
I'd suggest after setting up, and putting on the props, on 1st test flight, throttle up softly till its near weightless, but stull on the ground. In mode 1 (att manual) you can then use aileron yaw and rudder to see if the Tx is moving the craft as it should (you'll see it move a little while in the grass). Once you're certain everything is as it should, throttle up till its 6 foot high, and snap that puppy over to Channel 5 position 3 (GPS Enabled) and have the Channel 6 switch already sitting at autohover mode. You will see these functions live in your GCS app actuate with the transmitter while setting up anyway, but thats the best way to get it in the air first. Then you can gently play with the sticks. 1st tests should only be done in dead calm (my opinion).
Im on skype to text chat if you need help.
PM me if you need any assistance.
 

Yeah, its my rig...
... make sure that channel 5 has 3 positions, and channel 6 has 3 positions on the switches. ... Once you're certain everything is as it should, throttle up till its 6 foot high, and snap that puppy over to Channel 5 position 3 (GPS Enabled) and have the Channel 6 switch already sitting at autohover mode.... but thats the best way to get it in the air first. Then you can gently play with the sticks. 1st tests should only be done in dead calm (my opinion).

I'm interested in your comments regarding the 3 switches seeings that was one of my first questions.

I have the Turnigy 9x controller which has plenty of 2 way switches but only one 3 way switch.

Robone replied with: I am using a Futaba 7C which has 1 x 3 way switch and 1 x 2 way switch. You don't need what is called the stabilisation mode (Manual Mode 2) as this is really just an altitude hold mode. I fly in Manual mode 1 which has full attitude mode and then switch to GPS mode.

Now you've just written that you essentially bypass the stabilisation mode (manual mode 2) as well. So you never use this mode either?

Sounds like this is the solution for my trasmitter 3 way switch problem if that's the case.
 

johnno

Member
Oh, and I can sell you an upgrade to 16 point waypoint and unlimited PTZ lock also.
Hi Nic,
Why are you selling your upgrade not using it?
Its great there's life down under I thought I would be the only one in Aus pouring money into this Multi Heli Game.
Johnno.
 

johnno

Member
Nic, How many flights would you have logged up? and have you had anything happen while flying, Glitche etc??
 

johnno

Member
Yes, pair of data links, one on board, one on ground connected to the wifi module (which is acting as the wireless link of the phone to datalink).
I'm 12 months in front of you then, been into multirotors 12 months only, and now doing some cool things now I've sorted the junk from the good. You've chosen a top-notch autopilot system. I started on Xaircraft stuff, and spent probably the equvelant to a YS system and droidworx frame in just trying to get it to do some good stuff... Then moved to the pro gear. Never looked back:

Well done on the Video Nic thats excellent use to be my bread and butter, editing but using slightly more expensive gear than the humble PC/Mac what software are you using your animation is spot on.
Johnno.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

robone

Member
Thanks Rob,

1. That makes me happy and saves me buying a $450 transmitter. I wonder if I can fly only in Manual mode 2 (stabilization) and GPS modes then and skip the manual 1 mode. I like the idea of my hex staying on altitude when ever I let go of the sticks but so I can still fly it around. (I'll be having a $2000 camera strapped to it eventually see)

You need Manual mode 1 as your safety net. In case something goes wrong, you get control again by switching to Manual Mode 1. Manual Mode 2 IMO is a waste of time
 

You need Manual mode 1 as your safety net. In case something goes wrong, you get control again by switching to Manual Mode 1. Manual Mode 2 IMO is a waste of time

Thanks. Good to know.

Is there anything in the setup I need to know to have the 2way switch use manual mode 1 and GPS only and skip the mode 2?
 

nicwilke

Active Member
Thanks. Good to know.

Is there anything in the setup I need to know to have the 2way switch use manual mode 1 and GPS only and skip the mode 2?

No, mode 1 (manual ATT) is one position, and mode 3 will be the second position on a 2 position switch.

To test, if in mode 1 you spin up props slowly, winding up as they say, it's mode 2 manual. I don't think you will have an issue though, it'll be mode 1.
 

johnno

Member

Attachments

  • 6 way stitch.JPG
    6 way stitch.JPG
    71.8 KB · Views: 307


No, mode 1 (manual ATT) is one position, and mode 3 will be the second position on a 2 position switch.

To test, if in mode 1 you spin up props slowly, winding up as they say, it's mode 2 manual. I don't think you will have an issue though, it'll be mode 1.

Rightio... So essentially if I were to set it up on a 2 way switch it uses the "book-end" modes and ignores the middle mode. Got it, thanks for clarifying. Cheers
 

nicwilke

Active Member
Rightio... So essentially if I were to set it up on a 2 way switch it uses the "book-end" modes and ignores the middle mode. Got it, thanks for clarifying. Cheers

Yeah, but you can dial that switch in to emulate a central position instead of one end position if required. Just skip mode 2, i never use it either like rob.

Cheers
 


Top