TBS Discovery Pro

henrysj

henrysj

Member
Hey Kloner

Yeah U5's, 13" Tmotor props and Tmotor 30A pro esc. Found the Tmotor esc to be a little better than the Jeti but not by much. With the Jeti esc I wasn't able to rotate the props in the Naza motor test page with the Tmotor esc all is normal.


What FC are you using? Also have you kept your carbon booms the standard length?

Haven't noticed any of the motors running hotter on landing but will check again. Did the finger nail test and they all seem as smooth as each other.
 
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kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
I'm on naza v2, full length booms

if i had to guess your biggest problem is the props.... i've only tried tiger, one of my partners built one with apc props and his does this almost as bad as yours.....
 




henrysj

henrysj

Member
in the video showing the jeti esc and u5's I did have no brand 14" props, since then I've moved to 13" Tmotors. The jeti esc are not programable, I was just running the Naza motor test - with all my other setups when doing this the motors have spun and with the tmotor esc and same motors they spin.

So I've got the same setup then - Naza V2, full length booms, same engines, same props yet still a wobble. Maybe the FC is faulty?

What gains are you using? And are you using 2 batteries to add weight?

Thanks
 

kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
i don't have any of it here to check out,,,, try 160-160-140-150 then 100-100 atti....

no, i run the zippy compact 2700 6s

Do you have a temp gun or way to check a motor temp? the motor that drops most noticeable? look at it,,, my props are crazy balanced,,,, you got these magneticaly balanced?
 



henrysj

henrysj

Member
Got a Du-Bro balancer which seems pretty good and balanced all the props with it.

Switched the Carbon booms for stock DJI arms and some DJI motors from an F450 kit I never used to test whether its the FC. Playing around with yaw gains I noticed if I put them way too high I was able to replicate the wobble - to get a smooth yaw on full rudder movement I needed the gain to be 70% or less which still just keeps enough control on the yaw axis. So now I'm thinking the low KV motors and possibly the long boom combo, like Ken was finding, on such a light quad was just exaggerating the effect as even with the gains down at 40% which made it pretty unflyable I was still getting a big wobble.

What's frustrating is I know you've got it working well so it can be done. Went with the 6s, larger motor and low KV setup to get long flight times and more stability - think I'll do some research now and try and see if I can swap the U5's for higher KV motors.
 

kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
a lot of us are running this combo with awesome results.... something is wrong with something on the rig....


7:30 is onboard live feed without a gimbal....
 
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SamaraMedia

SamaraMedia

Active Member
Hey guys, having a little trouble getting my video feed to work properly. I can get my video to work with my FPV camera if I wire everything direct, but if I try to connect it using the diagrams on the TBS site it get no signal. Here's my current setup:
Lawmate 1.2/1.3 1000mW tx, switchable 5-12v
ReadyMade RC FPV camera, 12v
Running 4s battery for main power so using a small 370mah 3s battery to power the tx. Considering using a set down voltage off a power pad instead of separate battery.
a6evy7ym.jpg


TBS Pro with Kloner arms, SunnySky 2814 770kv motors, iPeaka 30A SimonK esc, 4s

2umugutu.jpg


Single servo wire connected to the video out port on the vtx.

begevyze.jpg


Single servo wire soldered to video pad, also solder the 12 volt pad since I'm using the Lawmate 1.2 vtx on 12 volt setting to go with the ReadyMade RC FPV camera which is 12v.

dutemejy.jpg


Cable for FPV cam soldered to the pads since camera only has three pin connector instead of the four wire molex connector included in the TBS kit. 12/5v pad left at standard setting of 12v since that is what the RMRC camera takes.

butanyqa.jpg


RMRC camera with stock cable attached, works perfect when wired directly to the vtx, not when soldered to pads on top plate.

za5urehy.jpg


This photo shows the direct connection of the FPV cam to the vtx which works perfectly. The single servo cable below is explained further down the page.



I'm planning to swap the 1.2 to an Immersion 5.8 600mW later this week but looking for an advice as to what might be wrong with my connections. Seems like there is something not communicating properly throughout the top plate.

Thanks,

John



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
the whole point behind a disco is the internal power and filters..... keeps it clean both visually and rf

if you suspect a problem with the board, start a trouble ticket at the tbs site and they will take care of you

anytime you wire up a component to the pads, they need a signal and ground attached
 

SamaraMedia

SamaraMedia

Active Member
I'll give that a try tonight. Should have known I needed to solder a ground to the pad next to the video pad. I guess I misinterpreted to wiring schematic since none of them incorporate a separate battery setup. Things will likely change again when the 5.8 vtx comes in later this week.

Thanks,

John
 

kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
with the 5.8 you will want to solder the power for it straight from an esc pad, skip powering it through core.... it is good to 6s
 

R

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
henrysj said:
Got a Du-Bro balancer which seems pretty good and balanced all the props with it.

Switched the Carbon booms for stock DJI arms and some DJI motors from an F450 kit I never used to test whether its the FC. Playing around with yaw gains I noticed if I put them way too high I was able to replicate the wobble - to get a smooth yaw on full rudder movement I needed the gain to be 70% or less which still just keeps enough control on the yaw axis. So now I'm thinking the low KV motors and possibly the long boom combo, like Ken was finding, on such a light quad was just exaggerating the effect as even with the gains down at 40% which made it pretty unflyable I was still getting a big wobble.

What's frustrating is I know you've got it working well so it can be done. Went with the 6s, larger motor and low KV setup to get long flight times and more stability - think I'll do some research now and try and see if I can swap the U5's for higher KV motors.
Click to expand...

Try different brands/types of props. I found that switching from 12 x 3.8 slow flyer props to 12 x 4.5 M/R props makes a big difference in how it flys and responds. Too much pitch and you will never find settings to make it fly smooth, too little and the low KV motors can't spin them fast enough. Sometimes you just have to try a few different types and sizes until you find the right set for your particular combination. As kloner says there a number of people flying the long arm setup with no problem so you likely have one key factor that is making yours do weird things.

Mine is a testbed for trying out ideas, the fact that it flys a bit funky is no surprise to me. I'm trying different sets of ESCs with different firmware (SimonK vs. BLHeli) to see what works best. The fact that I went cheap on the motors doesn't help the smoothness factor although it's interesting to see how the same ESC with two the different firmwares loaded can make a significant difference. I just swapped back to Castle M/R 35 ESCs after replacing one that went up in flames while in flight, they seemed to work quite well before the barbeque so I figured I'd give them a second chance. Everything was going well until the left front motor mount broke about 70 feet in the air, guess I should have changed it after the burnt ESC crash as it obviously had cracked and I didn't notice it until I was picking up the pieces at the field...

Ken
 


SamaraMedia

SamaraMedia

Active Member
kloner said:
with the 5.8 you will want to solder the power for it straight from an esc pad, skip powering it through core.... it is good to 6s
Click to expand...

So my Immersion 5.8 arrived yesterday and I was soldering up the pads this morning but I'm encountering a little problem. Since I was originally using a Lawmate 1.3 1000mw vtx I chose to solder the vtx pad as a 12 volt power supply (should have left the stock pad setting alone and just switched the vtx to 5v), now that I'm using the Immersion, which I believe is 5v, I'm having trouble getting a solid solder joint across the 5v pad. Seems like maybe solder rosin is in between to pads not allowing the solder to flow. What do you guys use to clean rosin off or am I doing something else wrong here?

What temp do you guys recommend soldering at?
 
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kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
that's not how these hook up, only 5v on an immersion is a 5volt output for 5v camera. immersion vtx are the other power wires on the side that say power and those are good from 2s-6s straight connect. they have a built in bec and it is hard for the core to power these so most people power the immersion from the esc solder pads on the frame, not the vtx connector....
 


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