Photohigher skyline rsgs

chris hornby

chris hornby

Member
All I am saying is that it works for me. There are so many different variables that I cant really predict what will happen with a slightly different setup. Just as an experiment I cranked the gains right up and the tilt started oscillating at 900. The roll I could crank right up to the end stop.
Someone else says that connecting the servo batteries after the skyline has turned green seems to help. I havn't tried this.

I think the problem needs a hardware fix (new board) I will be very impressed if it is fixed in firmware.
 

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DennyR

Active Member
Chris that seems to be working quite well for you. However it is not a AV130 which has the IMU at the other end. This is were the trouble starts as you have to dampen the feedback. It could also be that your servos have a different amp. board inside.
 


nicwilke

nicwilke

Active Member
chris hornby said:
I am happy with the results I am getting now, and I enjoy tinkering. I am a hobbyist after all.
I am sure PH will come up with a solution to the power supply problem which causes jitter shortly. I dont think bad-mouthing them is at all helpful. I am part of their target market, the hobbyist, and I am grateful that they are bringing a solution to us that places the gimbal stabiliser where it belongs, on the camera tray, for an affordable price.
If I were a professional as some on this forum claim to be, I guess I would get myself a cherry picker with a long boom and a professional gimbal mounted at the end, yes and maybe a couple of ganged Red Epics and a production van and maybe even a canvas chair with my name on the back!
In the meantime here is a video showing how to make the 3Y loom that I use and the results it gets along with some experiments to stabilise the pan axis.
Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to make a video Chris, It's similar to how I made mine. I had a pack of Y cables in my flight box to help with my setup. I dont have pan, but my settings are getting similar results. Have you tested in the air yet?
Cheers,
Nic.
 
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DennyR

Active Member
The 24-70L was a dog compared to the earlier one. It just is not sharp compared to a prime. the 24-36 was however a stunning lens.
 

chris hornby

chris hornby

Member
nicwilke said:
Have you tested in the air yet?
Cheers,
Nic.
Click to expand...
You might have seen on the TV it is very windy here at the moment (we are the Olympic sailing venue!) So I dont think it is a fair test to fly in too much turbulence as no current gimbal, even the Zen, can stabilise for vertical (up & down) or horizontal (sideways) movement. That is why I like to fly in calm condx. Anyway tomorrow I am flying in a gymnasium with a wall covered in mirror. I will post a video of that, good or bad.
 

chris hornby

chris hornby

Member
DennyR said:
The 24-70L was a dog compared to the earlier one. It just is not sharp compared to a prime. the 24-36 was however a stunning lens.
Click to expand...

The new 24/70L has IS which would be nice. Mine doesnt. Prime lenses are always better optically but I find the 24/70L a good general purpose lens.
 


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DennyR

Active Member
I am tempted to say, some are easily pleased. Those two items should go together quite well. (Joke)... Line up the longest edge of the frame with a door etc. and watch it go from pincushion to barrel distortion as you zoom it.

But about six years ago you could not give one away because most were soft. I expect it was a shim mistake in production or something. I knew of at least 5 other aerial pro shooters who all said the same on the aerial pro list. The general consensus being that it was a great disappointment at anything near to infinity focussing. At a time when we were all coming off Pentax 6x7's. The digital camera was under a lot of scrutiny. A pro shooter was often judged by his ability to create stunning 50x60 " wall prints. I have some images that adorn airports that were 5 gig file sizes. Most found even the 70-200L sharper at the 70mm end. My preference for short focal lengths is the 85-1.2 L. The entire book Above Cyprus was shot with just this one lens. It is IMHO then best lens that Canon ever made. Then next best was not a prime but a 24-36 aspherical zoom. sadly the old mount only and no longer made. FWIW...

I always shoot PANOs with a 85/1.2 in portrait and then stitch them together. Bent verticals not spoken here.
 
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DennyR

Active Member
chris hornby said:
You might have seen on the TV it is very windy here at the moment (we are the Olympic sailing venue!) So I dont think it is a fair test to fly in too much turbulence as no current gimbal, even the Zen, can stabilise for vertical (up & down) or horizontal (sideways) movement. That is why I like to fly in calm condx. Anyway tomorrow I am flying in a gymnasium with a wall covered in mirror. I will post a video of that, good or bad.
Click to expand...

Chris
I faithfully reproduced your wiring harness and what I am seeing is exactly the same as I was getting before with my own version that does more or less the same thing accept it takes separate 1500 us signals to the servos rather than just splitting the one from the tilt. No way can I get 500 gains without dampening. So I guess there is some other differences in perhaps the amp. boards. The tilt servo is also running hotter than the roll. The fact that some people don't have a bad issue must mean that they are not all the same.

The vertical and side movements you refer to are known as parallax. unless you are in close they are not a problem. it is the rotational movements around each axis that look bad.
 
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nicwilke

nicwilke

Active Member
DennyR said:
I am tempted to say, some are easily pleased. Those two items should go together quite well. (Joke)... Line up the longest edge of the frame with a door etc. and watch it go from pincushion to barrel distortion as you zoom it.

But about six years ago you could not give one away because most were soft. I expect it was a shim mistake in production or something. I knew of at least 5 other aerial pro shooters who all said the same on the aerial pro list. The general consensus being that it was a great disappointment at anything near to infinity focussing. At a time when we were all coming off Pentax 6x7's. The digital camera was under a lot of scrutiny. A pro shooter was often judged by his ability to create stunning 50x60 " wall prints. I have some images that adorn airports that were 5 gig file sizes. Most found even the 70-200L sharper at the 70mm end. My preference for short focal lengths is the 85-1.2 L. The entire book Above Cyprus was shot with just this one lens. It is IMHO then best lens that Canon ever made. Then next best was not a prime but a 24-36 aspherical zoom. sadly the old mount only and no longer made. FWIW...

I always shoot PANOs with a 85/1.2 in portrait and then stitch them together. Bent verticals not spoken here.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info Denny. I'm not planning on using an 85mm f1.2 in the air anyway, but that is a nice lense.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 

chris hornby

chris hornby

Member
DennyR said:
Chris
The fact that some people don't have a bad issue must mean that they are not all the same.
.
Click to expand...
I guess you are right. Lets hope the firmware addresses the issue for all. I havnt tried 1.1.7 yet but I am waiting until something actually appears on the site.
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
Thanks for the info chris, nice aircraft. I have an SU26 (50cc) but havent got anywhere near to fly her :( gutted. I also have a 24-70 F2.8 sigma...my main lens for 90% of my work, my 100-400L is for my military jets. Have you a youtube channel that we can see your yak flying?

Ross
 

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Thomb

Member
im trying to remove the roll potentiometer but can't get the tooth off, i assume i just need to unscrew that flathead thing in front of it? it wont come off any tips?
 


nicwilke

nicwilke

Active Member
I have recalibrated my ESC's and its now removed the stuttering front props (causing wobble) The craft now hovers in my yard superbly with virtually no sign of any wobble. Without the camera on board, I closely watched the tray as I swayed side to side and forwards and backwards. The gimbal looks as if its not twitching at all. I will place the camera on tonight (as its raining now) and do flight test recording tomorrow. I'll shoot double frame rate and conform the footage to normal so its slow motion to highlight (lengthen) and jitter, but I'm confident that I'd not going to be there at all. Good luck me.
 


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Thomb

Member
when i power on the skyline i get a red light, followed by a yellow light, than the yellow light starts to blink and it wil keep turning the tilt. any idea whats wrong?
 

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Thomb

Member
can't get it to work, followed a step by step video on youtube, but when i click the auto tune the roll will max out and the tilt will keep turning till the wires get stuck. what the hell am i doing wrong? all is connected like it should.
 

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