new naza not arming motors !!
- Thread starter chris ables
- Start date
RancherPete
Member
Back with you (I was a little under the weather and finally fell asleep). The JR9503 is DMS and I am using its matching transmitter so I would suppose that this is as well (JRR921X). I did make some very good progress in the past hour and it was due to your tip to check and see if I had the software set for "Traditional" (someone had told me otherwise). That made the difference. I was then able to calibrate my TX and setup my switches for fail-safe, manual and atti. It felt great to see all of that stuff working with out any errors! I saved all of my setting and closed out. The problem that I am having at this point is that I am getting a flash flashing light on the LED. It appears to be red (leaning toward the color orange. I have no idea why I would be getting this. Remember: I am new to this and have not flown this unit at all so I do not know what might be needed in terms of stinck combinations of switch setting that might resolve this. Any ideas? Thanks ffor your help with this. Your tip got me over a major hurdle!
Pete
RancherPete
Member
I was able to set that gear switch correctly so that it is centered (and blue) in the "A" or "M". However, I am not sure what the deal is with item 4 on that same page: "Stick Monitor" (under X1 and X2). They appear to be all of the way to the right and I do not know what this means or how or if I should change them.
RancherPete
Member
Guess what! I got it running. The red light was because it was in Fail Safe mode. Once I figured that out and then did the CSC combination it fired right up. Now if I can make it through the day without crashing it I will be in good shape. Thanks for your help. It is greatly appreciated.
Peter
Peter
kloner
Aerial DP
those are if you hooked up other channels to the naza, you can adjust the gain like above, but under the number where it says "INH" you drop that down to select x1 or x2, whichever switch you want to control whichever number. I use my extra wires to my osd so mine are inh
So your ready to fire this thing up, turn the gear switch so it selects M, set the thing away from you and do the stick movement to arm. if this is the first time, make double dam sure the naza is orientated right to not throw the model down like i did
So your ready to fire this thing up, turn the gear switch so it selects M, set the thing away from you and do the stick movement to arm. if this is the first time, make double dam sure the naza is orientated right to not throw the model down like i did
RancherPete
Member
It has been a long haul for me because I have never built one of these nor have I had any experience with RC... EVER. Since I just took it out of the box yesterday morning, pulled and all nighter (virtually) and I an seeing spinning propellers at this point I should consider myself fortunate. The next thing I need to figure out (I think) related to this Failsafe setup. I do have a switch set so that I can get the multi to go into failsafe mode (I can see it light up blue for fail-safe on the Assistant software and as I mentioned that is why it would not start up and was flashing red) but I think I read where it is also necessary to make some changed within the TX as well... perhaps for throttle control (?) not sure... or is that stuff handled automatically by the Naza once it has been switched to Fail-safe mode? Do you know about this (at the risk wearing out my welcome 
Pete
Pete
kloner
Aerial DP
To the best of my knowledge the idea is if you turn off the tx, it should fall into failsafe. I looked at mine briefly and didn't finish setting it up. Maybe somebody else can chime in on what to do
It is super important to make sure the wires from the rx are pointing back on the frame at the naza and that you have the motors plugged in like it says to in assistant where you picked what motor count/orientation was at. Then you need to make sure the motors are spinning the right direction it shows on that page. reverse any two motor wires to spin it the other way
It is super important to make sure the wires from the rx are pointing back on the frame at the naza and that you have the motors plugged in like it says to in assistant where you picked what motor count/orientation was at. Then you need to make sure the motors are spinning the right direction it shows on that page. reverse any two motor wires to spin it the other way
It has been a long haul for me because I have never built one of these nor have I had any experience with RC... EVER. Since I just took it out of the box yesterday morning, pulled and all nighter (virtually) and I an seeing spinning propellers at this point I should consider myself fortunate. The next thing I need to figure out (I think) related to this Failsafe setup. I do have a switch set so that I can get the multi to go into failsafe mode (I can see it light up blue for fail-safe on the Assistant software and as I mentioned that is why it would not start up and was flashing red) but I think I read where it is also necessary to make some changed within the TX as well... perhaps for throttle control (?) not sure... or is that stuff handled automatically by the Naza once it has been switched to Fail-safe mode? Do you know about this (at the risk wearing out my welcome
Pete
Pete, good to see you got everyting sorted! It's not strictly necessary to be able to trigger failsafe from the TX on the Naza, it's not like the WKM where failsafe mode will make it fly back to home and autoland. As long as you can toggle between manual and ATTI mode that's what's important for now.
For your initial flight make sure you start off in ATTI mode until you get a feel for the controls, it can be quite a handful in manual if you have no flight experience. ATTI will at least keep it level and dampen the respose to stick movement a bit which will give you some time to think about what you're doing. Trying to start off in manual is a guaranteed crash unless you've got some stick time flying multis or helis.
Ken
Are all your trims and subtrims centered? They need to be when you do the TX calibration, if they weren't or you aren't sure, center everything and do the calibration again and see if that helps.
Ken
kloner
Aerial DP
yes everything is centered. I can make it pick a new "level" by turning off the atti, adjusting the attitude manual then turn on atti again...... its not a big deal cause i fly alot, but if his drifts off like mine does, that's gonna suck. not sim like if ya know what i mean.
With that said, when you plug in the battery, is it suppose to be level? how level? with atti on?
With that said, when you plug in the battery, is it suppose to be level? how level? with atti on?
RancherPete
Member
Hi Ken!
Thanks for the tip on ATTI mode. I'm sure it will come in handy. Unfortunately the kit came with 3 of one prop and one of the other in 10 inch (so I'm out of luck there for a proper set) but they did include a correct set of 8 inchers to get me started. Ken, I wanted to ask you something about props: as I mentioned in one of PMs to you I bought a bunch of inexpensive props from China and they look virtually identical to the DJIs but when I set them on the motors they will not slide down far enough to expose enough threads to replace the nut to hold them down. I am wondering if there is any way to salvage these. I know that you have tired a variety of props so can you tell me what you feeel is ultimately the best over all prop make, model and size for this when used with a gopro for stabilization?
Pete
RancherPete
Member
_________________________
I learned how to set up these mode switches in this video: http://vimeo.com/34330151 It was very helpful so I wanted to provide a link for you. The only odd thing about this is that this man is setup in a HELI mode which I was told not to do. However, his idea for setting up the gear switch as a mode switch works great and he also sets up a fail-safe on the aux2 switch with a mix that works well too. It is clearly explained so you may find it useful. Also: I forgot to thank you for one very important thing: it was the fail-safe mode that was keeping me from moving ahead and causing that flashing light and you tip set me straight. Getting ready to putt it all back together now, motors are spinning the right directions and it appears that all of setting are good to start out with. Thanks guys!
Pete
It shouldn't matter if its level or not when plugging in the battery but it should be completely stationary and left that way for a bit to allow the gyros to initialize properly.
Does it stay level when it drifts, or does it tilt in some direction and then start flying that way? Is this a complete F 450 kit or just a Naza on a quad frame?
Ken
You can salvage them if there's enough meat at the hub to drill them out to 8MM, that's why they won't seat all the way down, the bottom of the shaft is 8MM. The DJI 8 inch props should work fine for now, I've flown mine on 8 inch Graupners and it worked OK, I only got 10 inch in the kit.
I've used only the stock props and Graupners, mainly because the larger Graupners have an 8MM center hole and it was an easy swap early on. The smaller Graupners ( 8 and 9 inch) have stepped center holes and need to be drilled out to use them, I have sets of each and I'm trying them on my F450. I would recommend the 10 x 5 Graupners as an alternative, they are adirect bolt on and they come balanced from the factory.
Ken
kloner
Aerial DP
and they'll be back in stock next week. i've been hounding them
http://www.v-eastonline.com/categories/Graupner-Prop-Shop/Graupner-E%2dProps/
top two sets, two of each
http://www.v-eastonline.com/categories/Graupner-Prop-Shop/Graupner-E%2dProps/
top two sets, two of each