KDE Direct has added Multi-Rotor Heli motors to their lineup

[fltundra]

and there here to rescue us all from this crappy T-motor junk there trying to pass off as quality and new... my a$$

Agree a 100%, Don't get me wrong , I follow all your builds. Just not finding the things you are with castle and local guys using KDE in their Heli's. I've have over thirty years in RC fixed wing. Been away for last ten, flying the real thing. Again Thanks, luv the Aerial Mob arms

 

[kloner]

I've been into single rotors since 91.... have ran castle for as long as electric single rotors existed,,, I personally lost 2 700 models, one 3d, one scale due to castle.... with stuff like that you get one chance with me, then i'll look past that stuff like it never exists. Maytec and T-motor have been a synonmous combo for the last couple years, well this year that all changed and i got thousands of dollars of damage,,, again due to this crap. if it is me, i'm never buying non matching anything again. motors and esc's will be of the same brand with a garuntee there working.

Glad your diggin em....

 

[LeeT]

Hmmm

I am expecting six 2814 515KV to arrive, that will replace my T-Motor 2216 - 900 KV as the hex gained weight. I am also moving up to 4S. I still have my original DJI 30 amp ESCs. I hadn't planned on buying 6 new ESCs Hopefully the KDEs will like the ESC and I am not on the hook for new ESCs. Blew my budget between the motors and buying new batteries.

 

[kloner]

usually that kv is reserved for 6s,,,, as long as you can gt a prop that'll spin the thrust range you need i suppose you'll get it up. on 4s i'd guess 12-14"

I think you'll be fine in this size with those esc's. i ran em for a year on various branded 2814 with no problems. the tiger stuff and esc issues came as of late with the u series motors and maytec esc's from last fall till now

 

[ovdt]

Anythoughts on 4014XF-380 vs 3520XF-400?


I'm planning an x8 to lift a Red Epic. Total weight per motor is 1343g with the 4014-380kv. Weight per motor with the 3520-400kv is 1378g.


I plan on running 6s. It looks like I'd run a 16" prop with either motor to hover around 50%. I'd get slightly better efficiency (5.3A vs 5.5A) if I went with the 380kv, but then I'd have to deal with ESC selection for a high pole motor. Anyone have thoughts on

I doubt that you will be able to lift a RED with brushless gimbal with a X8 /w 16" props comfortably.

I'm using KDE 4014XF with 16x5.4" props on a flat octo. My hover gas is around %55-60 with a custom brushless gimbal and 5D Mark III with 24mm lens. On a X8 config, you will want to use 18" props for lifting RED.

On flat octo, 17" props would be the proper match for lifting RED.

I found that the numbers on KDE web site are not realistic in real life usage. I am getting almost the same flight time with Tiger 4014-400KV on the same copter. It was supposed to give around %20 more flight time or more lift

But the motors are very smooth and high quality. I'd go with KDE again if I had to choose again.

 

[SamaraMedia]

usually that kv is reserved for 6s,,,, as long as you can gt a prop that'll spin the thrust range you need i suppose you'll get it up. on 4s i'd guess 12-14"

I think you'll be fine in this size with those esc's. i ran em for a year on various branded 2814 with no problems. the tiger stuff and esc issues came as of late with the u series motors and maytec esc's from last fall till now

I just ordered 6 of the same motors for a hex project and plan the use 6s, 45amp ZTW Simon K esc with 13x4.5 props. Will use GoPro and or mirrorless camera and gimbal to be figured at later date.

Also working on TBS disco pro with Kloner arms that I'm planning on using SunnySky 2814's that we're on the hex.

John

 

[fpmurphy]

I doubt that you will be able to lift a RED with brushless gimbal with a X8 /w 16" props comfortably.

I'm using KDE 4014XF with 16x5.4" props on a flat octo. My hover gas is around %55-60 with a custom brushless gimbal and 5D Mark III with 24mm lens. On a X8 config, you will want to use 18" props for lifting RED.

On flat octo, 17" props would be the proper match for lifting RED.

I found that the numbers on KDE web site are not realistic in real life usage. I am getting almost the same flight time with Tiger 4014-400KV on the same copter. It was supposed to give around %20 more flight time or more lift

But the motors are very smooth and high quality. I'd go with KDE again if I had to choose again.

Thanks for the heads up. I've just been going by numbers from thier site. Any opinions on flat vs coaxial with the KDE motors? I think that I could do up to 18" props with the flat setup. I'm planning on using the Vulcan 1200mm frame.

 

[kloner]

I have flown a skyjib heavy v.2 with t-motor 3520 400 with 15" props for a year now, our main payload is red epics, fly em like i stole em. I have no problem hovering in the 65%+ ranges, bird flies awesome, can get it going 30 miles an hour for a mile.....however, what i do have happen and often is i blow out motor bearings. We get 8 minute flights with 40% reserve on 20 amp hour packs..... looks and sounds like this

started the career on 3515 500 kv and that didn't hang, blew banks of those up doing the same thing..... we limit it to 10knot winds now because of such and are planning swapping this rig over to 3520 kde on 18" props.... gonna invert every other motor. the airframe itself is so nice at these weights, just needs a little more headroom

 

[jfro]

I have flown a skyjib heavy v.2 with t-motor 3520 400 with 15" props for a year now, our main payload is red epics, fly em like i stole em. I have no problem hovering in the 65%+ ranges, bird flies awesome, can get it going 30 miles an hour for a mile.....however, what i do have happen and often is i blow out motor bearings. We get 8 minute flights with 40% reserve on 20 amp hour packs..... looks and sounds like this

............................... now because of such and are planning swapping this rig over to 3520 kde on 18" props.... gonna invert every other motor. the airframe itself is so nice at these weights, just needs a little more headroom

Kloner, If you were going to just fly the gh4 with kde 3520's and were looking for 15-20 minute flight times with 2x8000 mah 6s batteries, would you go to a hex or stick with an octo or maybe x8 (if you could find a decent fc for the x8). Also curious as to what FC you'd use this week.

 

[kloner]

to stay with these smaller motors i'd do 8.... you'd be better served going another level up like u7 size class, forget the number, 5225 or whatever these guys got coming i showed a few pages back. then a hex all the way, like my 1100 or that class airframe.

 

[aForcefulThrust]

I have the KDE 4014 380kv motors I'm planning to install on my S800 frame. Does anyone know if the DJI ESC's would cause problems? Unfourtionately I am limited on ESC choice with an S800 because of the way the ESC's mount to the arms..

 

[LeeT]

I have the KDE 4014 380kv motors I'm planning to install on my S800 frame. Does anyone know if the DJI ESC's would cause problems? Unfourtionately I am limited on ESC choice with an S800 because of the way the ESC's mount to the arms..

Not sure what amperage the ESCs are you have, but the 4014s are rated at 36 amps. If they are 30amp ESCs, unfortunately you will need to replace your ESCs with something bigger. I am finding that I need to replace my DJI 30's that are driving my 2814's. The motors are rated at 26+ amps.

 

[fltundra]

Not sure what amperage the ESCs are you have, but the 4014s are rated at 36 amps. If they are 30amp ESCs, unfortunately you will need to replace your ESCs with something bigger. I am finding that I need to replace my DJI 30's that are driving my 2814's. The motors are rated at 26+ amps.

That's not totally true the 4014 swinging 18x6.1 at 100% is only 26.9 amps. I think his problem with those dji esc's, is they may not respond right, being they are high pole count
If it were me, I would get some Castle mr35's or wait for the KDE 35's. I don't think the dji's can handle a 6s also, never owned them.

 

[aForcefulThrust]

Well the problem is the ESC is built In to the arm.. But the ESC is 40a and 6s so Im OK there. Just have been reading about these timing and loose sync issues and was hoping an ESC genius could tell me why it would or would not work.

I have the motors now I can bench test in a few days when I have time. Here is a pic of my ESC you will see why its hard for me to switch ESC without changing frames all together. The motor mounts directly on top

 

[fltundra]

Well the problem is the ESC is built In to the arm.. But the ESC is 40a and 6s so Im OK there. Just have been reading about these timing and loose sync issues and was hoping an ESC genius could tell me why it would or would not work.

I have the motors now I can bench test in a few days when I have time. Here is a pic of my ESC you will see why its hard for me to switch ESC without changing frames all together. The motor mounts directly on top

 

[fltundra]

Well the problem is the ESC is built In to the arm.. But the ESC is 40a and 6s so Im OK there. Just have been reading about these timing and loose sync issues and was hoping an ESC genius could tell me why it would or would not work.

I have the motors now I can bench test in a few days when I have time. Here is a pic of my ESC you will see why its hard for me to switch ESC without changing frames all together. The motor mounts directly on top

It's best to have the esc as close to the batt as possible, and extend the motor wires. I would do "extensive" testing.

 

[fltundra]

was hoping an ESC genius could tell me why it would or would not work.

Your in uncharted territory

 

[sk8brd]

aforcefulthrust --the esc's can be on the arm as long as there are capacitor, people have it this way on tarot builds where the esc's mount under the motor mounts and are fine with the added capacitor. apparently with the long power wires and "induction" there are more voltage spikes when the esc's turns off to let less current through with long wires... if you want to read more about it you can go here. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523

with that said i personally mount all esc's to bottom plate to keep it easy..not using an evo though but don't hear too many having problems with the long esc's wires with capacitors.

as far as loosing sync thats seems to only be a issue with simon k based firmware and pancake motors. there are people running kde pancakes on non simon k esc's like Bartman's wooden frame build in the build thread and had reported no issues. there has been a couple reports out there that people were having no issues on hobby wing esc's and kde pancakes. don't see why it wouldn't work really unless the evo esc's are simon k which i don't think. sometimes you just go to bench test and see what happens. to find out go into manual mode on flight controller and do rapid burst of full throttle just like the video. usually you can tell right away if there sync issues, the props need to be on so be safe maybe one motor active at a time.

 

[fltundra]

to find out go into manual mode on flight controller and do rapid burst of full throttle just like the video

No, needs to be connected to the receiver, FC won't respond fast enough.

 

[sk8brd]

either way would work and display the issue..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJamvLec88M

this vid isn't even in manual mode, the flight controller in that mode doesn't give you 100% throttle like manual mode would and still showed the issue.