Error code on Naza Assistant
- Thread starter Bowley
- Start date
Do you have the manual that came with the Naza. It has a nice diagram that shows how everything should be hooked up. It may not mention the red wire because they assume you are using their ESC's which don't have a built in BEC.
Rich
Rich
FunTastically Motivated
Member
it did not work... :upset: I soldered the +/- of the VU to the PDB... Removed the red wires from all the ESC's (taped them individually and securely to avoid short for now) and connected them back to the FC (yes! in the correct order...). Connected the VU's LED to LED and the V-Sen part of it to the X3 of NAZA... Bound the RX & TX. But nothing changed! I mean I'm getting the same exact error and calibration just doesn't happen! The slides do not show any reaction with the movement of the sticks. The only positive outcome was that at least the ESC that used to get get real warm is not heating up. So removing the red wires was something positive. I really think that the FC is bricked... Sending it back to him.
Rich, the diagram was very helpful. Before I even touched the quad, I had read and memorized the manual... I have it on my iPhone and referred to it just in case as I was setting everything up. Believe me... all the wires are correctly connected between the FC, ESC's, and the RX.
As a last ditch effort, is there any way I can flash the FC back to an older version of the F/W?
I am :crushed: (it's supposed to be "crushed")...
The DJI site will allow you to go back to the last version. I know that others have been able to find links back to earlier versions.
FunTastically Motivated
Member
I see the link for the Assistant software here: http://www.dji-hobby.com/naza/index_en.html So do I have to roll back to the previous Assistant version which will then downgrade the F/W?! Is it even worth it really?
I would not down grade the software. I see no reason to do so. I use a AR8000 and a JR9503 so we are close in terms of equipment. I have had issues with the ERR-CFG8 in the past. However, after I have calibrated my transmitter and pressed "write" in assistant, I disconnect the lead to the USB port, power down the Naza by disconnecting the battery and turn off the transmitter. I then re-power the transmitter, the shutting down and restarting the TX may be redundant, the connect the lipo the the Naza. Once it has gone through its power up sequence, I start the Assistant and then connect the USB cable. In my experience the error code goes away if you follow this.
FunTastically Motivated
Member
Yes. The LED goes through the normal system start and self-check (as shown on page 27 of the manual). Then after the last 4 green, the LED starts flashing red (my wife thinks it's orange... so it may have changed from last night's red to orange?) endlessly... When the USB is attached, the LED turns solid green and you know the rest...
kloner
Aerial DP
you mentioned the rx not lighting up nor the sat......... is it lighting yet?
when you plug in the naza to the computer, it isn't going solid green?
The thing flashing orange like that happens till you get the atti/manual mode programmed, but you should see the bars move with the stick input
is the sat by chance dsm2?
when you plug in the naza to the computer, it isn't going solid green?
The thing flashing orange like that happens till you get the atti/manual mode programmed, but you should see the bars move with the stick input
is the sat by chance dsm2?
FunTastically Motivated
Member
And that's exactly my problem! It does not let me calibrate... Pressing "Start" does nothing! The slides jump around aimlessly (the throttle stays on the right--yes, I tried reversing it in TX to no avail) but moving the sticks on the TX has 0 effect--the markers on the slides keep jumping for a while and they eventually come to a stop, but again, they do not respond to the TX stick movements. I have seen the videos on calibrating the TX with NAZA in Assistant, and this is not the way it's supposed to be! I thought my RX was toasted, but not only does my RX & TX bind fine, but also I tried a different RX and got exactly same results... Oh and Assistant shows it to be in Fail-safe mode. I adjusted the Gear travel u and down and nothing changed!!! It's gotta be the FC.......... The only good thing out of all of this is that I think I'll be an expert in troubleshooting bricked NAZA systems...
That means you have no transmitter signal, i.e., you are in failsafe. Go to the Transmitter Calibration screen in Assistant, look at the slider. It may point to Manual or to ATTI, but unless they are highlighted in Blue, you are in Failsafe. Look at the lower right corner and it will in text tell you what mode you are in.
FunTastically Motivated
Member
That's another weird thing. The RX or sat lights are not coming on at all except for they are going through the binding process (when they do their normal flashing yellow). But after that, no sign of life from the RX or sat...
The sat is the original that came with the AR8000. I think it is DSM2 by default... Is the sat even necessary to get things started? I mean for troubleshooting purposes, I disconnected the sat from the RX during the last few tries... of course nothing changed...
Rebind your transmitter to your receiver. That should allow you to calibrate.
FunTastically Motivated
Member
Read one post above yours... (I think we cross-posted). Yes; it goes straight to fail-safe mode...
You have no bind between your receiver and transmitter. Rebind it and try again. If you get the continual flashing orange lights, try another receiver, if you have one. Until you can calibrate the transmitter and set the endpoints for Manual and ATTI you will not be able to fly successfully. It is not the FC.
kloner
Aerial DP
the ar8000 will not work at all without the sat, it'll light up, but there will be no output. it is dsmx native. the early releases of the dx8 came with a sat that said dsm2, but was really dsmx, sometimes, sometimes not. the dsm2 sat will bind but not light up or work when bound to the ar8000. It was sorted out with spektrum customers during the 2 recalls.
To recap, if the rx/sats aren't lighting up, your a no go and you have no idea if the naza is good or not
To recap, if the rx/sats aren't lighting up, your a no go and you have no idea if the naza is good or not
FunTastically Motivated
Member
Well, i don't know what did it, but it's done!!! I connected the sat again (remember, I did try it before with the sat and bound them a million times before!). So this around the light in the RX & sat are both lit when connected! When I Saw that I knew something good was going to happen! So this time when I hit start for the calib, I could adjust the travel on the gear switch and viola... got the Atti mode and then the M mode both working and got all the sticks moving and trimmed out... BUT (and this is one BIG but!)... the ESC #1 (the one that used to heat up) must be half-dead or something. Got all the motors running except for the one hooked up to that... That one only vibrates and hardly moves. Is it the ESC or the motor?!
Here's a recap of some of the lessons learned by me and some that may help some other newbies like me :
1. Ask questions. One person's opinion may just be their, well, opinion... Here I got so many different troubleshooting ideas that collectively appears to have helped solve the problem... and of course I learned so much along the way. For example, had it not been for the video I saw of some guy on Vimeo who showed who to adjust the travel on the TX to get the gear switch out of the fail-safe mode, I would've still been asking questions. But the minute I got the TX to work in the calib mode, I knew exactly how to get the rest done... thanks in part to that video.
2. RTFM! I did read the manual and it helped me in so many ways I can't even describe--even though I had to decipher the DJI English for me to understand parts of it better, it's still MUCH better than not reading the manual...
3. The ESC's with internal BEC need to have their red wires removed before connecting them to the FC! I don't care how much of an expert builder you are... When it can't be done (and apparently it can damage some or all of your components), it can't be done!
4. Just attach the darn VU! It's real simple especially if you have a PDB. It's more than just an LED! It is obviously a BEC that regulates the voltage going into the FC also. Can't believe I was told otherwise initially.........
I still need to figure out what the heck is wrong with my motor/ESC 1. Should I isolate that ESC and motor to see if the combo works at all? Can I measure the voltage, amperage, etc. (not an electronic guy obviously but have a multimeter and know my way around that to a limited degree) coming out of the ESC? The ESC's are supposed to have been flashed with SimonK's F/W so I don't even know how to begin to replace one to match the other3... so I am kind of hoping if I have to replace anything that it'd be the motor! Any troubleshooting tips will be appreciated...
Here's a recap of some of the lessons learned by me and some that may help some other newbies like me :
1. Ask questions. One person's opinion may just be their, well, opinion... Here I got so many different troubleshooting ideas that collectively appears to have helped solve the problem... and of course I learned so much along the way. For example, had it not been for the video I saw of some guy on Vimeo who showed who to adjust the travel on the TX to get the gear switch out of the fail-safe mode, I would've still been asking questions. But the minute I got the TX to work in the calib mode, I knew exactly how to get the rest done... thanks in part to that video.
2. RTFM! I did read the manual and it helped me in so many ways I can't even describe--even though I had to decipher the DJI English for me to understand parts of it better, it's still MUCH better than not reading the manual...
3. The ESC's with internal BEC need to have their red wires removed before connecting them to the FC! I don't care how much of an expert builder you are... When it can't be done (and apparently it can damage some or all of your components), it can't be done!
4. Just attach the darn VU! It's real simple especially if you have a PDB. It's more than just an LED! It is obviously a BEC that regulates the voltage going into the FC also. Can't believe I was told otherwise initially.........
I still need to figure out what the heck is wrong with my motor/ESC 1. Should I isolate that ESC and motor to see if the combo works at all? Can I measure the voltage, amperage, etc. (not an electronic guy obviously but have a multimeter and know my way around that to a limited degree) coming out of the ESC? The ESC's are supposed to have been flashed with SimonK's F/W so I don't even know how to begin to replace one to match the other3... so I am kind of hoping if I have to replace anything that it'd be the motor! Any troubleshooting tips will be appreciated...
FunTastically Motivated
Member
So here's the weirdest thing: I removed the ESC and connected the motor the questionable ESC used to control to another ESC. It worked just fine. So it's not the motor... So then I got to thinking that at first I thought the MC was bricked but it wasn't... so what if, only what if, the ESC is also not toasted?! I remembered having read somewhere that when dealing with multiple ESC's with internal BEC, that the red wire from all but one needs to be removed... so I thought what the heck, I've already experimented so much with this thing, what can possibly go wrong. So I went ahead and connected the red wire from what I thought was the faulty ESC back. Left the other 3 ESC's red wires removed... and I'll be darned everything worked!!! I turned everything on... played around for minutes (of course with no props!) and that motor ran like whatever runs smoothly...
The ESC didn't get warm or anything either anymore. So I am just not getting it. I hate the fact that this is making me feel like I need to take a course in advance electronics to get it... I just don't know whether using this method in the long run can damage anything or result in some odd, unpredictable behavior while flying...
The ESC didn't get warm or anything either anymore. So I am just not getting it. I hate the fact that this is making me feel like I need to take a course in advance electronics to get it... I just don't know whether using this method in the long run can damage anything or result in some odd, unpredictable behavior while flying...