2014 - best ESC at the moment?

kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
i had ipeaka with simonK and maytec pancake motors. jc monty tried the same motors on i think they were ztw simonK, they both had motor stop while giving it power but after flying a while, got all comfy hovering, lean forwad, motor or two would shut off,,,,, we both killed models trying them... no idea what count they were,,, 3508 size i think
 

R

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
kloner said:
I've been building rtf gimbals for a bout a year now..... all iflight motors..... when you talk to them and start trying to sort out errors with some, perfection with others, they explain that they know about the qc problems and are working to straighten it all out. That's fine when it happens, but some sale motors there giving away at cost would seem to be an unpopular size, most likely kv since the sweet spot is between 400 and 500kv for most weight class rigs we build or they just suck and don't work at all. no other reason to give them away like the link he posted....i've saved hundreds to turn around and spend thousands repairing the crash, want to make sure to remind that's the worse case scenario

for flight motors, i tried some earlier iflight motors and they just weren't much in the quality dept, bearings weren't good, vibrations prevalent, etc. paper labels shoulda been a giveaway that they weren't gonna have much for tight tollerances
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What problem were you having with the gimbals exactly?

For flight motors, paper labels? You must be talking about the older iBM series? I've never used those, so maybe you're right.

View attachment 16485

The MultiMate series seem to be excellent to me. Great bearings and windings.

View attachment 16486


Jack Erbes does a lot of motor tear-downs, and all of the reviews he's done of these show they're solidly built.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1984049

Personally, I never really look at price when judging quality. I try to be objective. I mean, really cheap stuff is probably cheap crap. But just because something is expensive doesn't mean it's better than something mid-priced. Too much of the time, the vendor simply inflates the price to position the product in the upper end of the market, not because it's actually better.
 

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kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
I get alot of stuff to test, last spring i got 6 multimate motors...... when we went to bolt them on the wires came out of the case 90 degrees. the wire on a dji arm came out of the motor on the side.... ok... then we went to put props on, one of the 6 adapters wasn't even in the game to be used, was missing 1/3 of the metal.... wited, got the prop adapters on went to fly it and 2 of the 6 were out of round, vibrated pretty good without a prop, tried to eat the model when we went to fly it... they were pre or early production, but christ

on the gimbals they have a very inconsistent ohm readings on there brushless motors..... every size. check any 2 wires on your motors, see if there is variance. on an average 3 axis gimbal it takes 4 motors cause one always gets sent back
 


P

PeterLester

Member
Are you are specifically listing the Tiger motors with the 4014 here?: http://www.rctigermotor.com/html/2013/Navigator_0910/40.html


kloner said:
I'd go with 3515, u5, 3520, 4014. they run super efficient at that weight, i fly gh3 a lot under my jib and it is 3520 400 and with 10 amp hours of 6s flies 8 minutes....20 amp hours is like 14 minutes. This is the osd doing that on my 1100 hex with u7 and 16" with 20 amp hours with about 4 lbs under it, 3 axis brushless hero, and that is half the draw. gh3 with nice glass only raises that another 8-10 amps. the 3520 behaved similar on octo till i get to a red, then u7 keep cruising and my 3520 start stressing....


that's half the draw and mah, times 2 is the whole rig
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S

Scott Drysdale

Mixmaster
Never mind..... it is quite clear now that these are all T-motors.... I'll be choosing between U5 and 4014 using 15x5 props to carry a GH3 or 4 on a Cinestar 8 2 axis BGC system (nothing heavier).
Certainly all excellent advice though.

kloner said:
I didn't understand? the flight in the video is a u7 hex, 16-18" prop
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kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
those kde are really hard to beat if they have your size. They got a lot of sizes coming....
 

SamaraMedia

SamaraMedia

Active Member
kloner said:
I'd go with 3515, u5, 3520, 4014. they run super efficient at that weight, i fly gh3 a lot under my jib and it is 3520 400 and with 10 amp hours of 6s flies 8 minutes....20 amp hours is like 14 minutes. This is the osd doing that on my 1100 hex with u7 and 16" with 20 amp hours with about 4 lbs under it, 3 axis brushless hero, and that is half the draw. gh3 with nice glass only raises that another 8-10 amps. the 3520 behaved similar on octo till i get to a red, then u7 keep cruising and my 3520 start stressing....


that's half the draw and mah, times 2 is the whole rig
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Couple questions Kloner.

1) Is the OSD on that video of the FPV live feed from the SuperX FC?

2) I guessing you use the FPV feed to pilot the hex, do you use a switch on your radio to flip between your FPV feed and filming camera (gh3, red) to compose your shot while solo piloting?

3) When you are using a 2 man crew do you have two separate vtx, one for the FPV feed and one for camera op?

Thanks,

John
 
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kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
that is the superX but it is the TBS EzOSD doing all that data overlay

I fly everything fpv, stand in the shade. I don't fly one man, we hire camera men to gimbal

yes, the jib is 2.4 futaba control so it has 2x 5.8 immersion systems, ch1 and ch4. that hex vid above is ezuhf long range so it has 433 control and 2.4 video for the pilot, 5.8 video and ezuhf on the gimbal.....

no problem
 


S

Scott Drysdale

Mixmaster
Kloner, I see in an MRF archive that the HK BlueSeries 40 A ESCs are the same as the Maytech 40 Amp..... but much less expensive....
but I don't think they are available in OPTO.....
Another difference might be that the BlueSeries allow for simple jumper configuration with SimonK programming as an option whereas the Maytech already are preprogrammed by SimonK.
What would be your choice if your were on a tight budget?


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...A_BlueSeries_Brushless_Speed_ Controller.html


kloner said:
I only fly maytec's these days but am going to try the tmotor 12s series soon. the new thing in esc's is the 12s capability even if you only use it to 8, 10 or 12s. it's the future of lifting. same with this years autopilots, suppose to get compatiblity so all the sensors and crap tell you real numbers on osd's, etc.

2kg isn't too bad to lift. 6s will do it happy. I tried pancake motors once, they werent compatible with the esc's and went away faster than they came in. all the u series stuff is really nice motor wise. Super efficient, the u5 would slide right in and perform nice for your build. way better bearings so you'll fly more and diagnose less
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P

PeterLester

Member
Thanks again Kloner and Droider....
BTW - I have also been told to choose ESCs that use N FETs entirely, not a mix of N and P FETs...... as SimonK firmware will heat up the FETs at higher speeds/pulse rates....
so much to watch out for...... will now dig around for the HobbyKing 40A ESCs and Jeti s.
 

SamaraMedia

SamaraMedia

Active Member
kloner said:
that is the superX but it is the TBS EzOSD doing all that data overlay

I fly everything fpv, stand in the shade. I don't fly one man, we hire camera men to gimbal

yes, the jib is 2.4 futaba control so it has 2x 5.8 immersion systems, ch1 and ch4. that hex vid above is ezuhf long range so it has 433 control and 2.4 video for the pilot, 5.8 video and ezuhf on the gimbal.....

no problem
Click to expand...

one other question, what monitor do you use? If I remember correctly you said you prefer the monitor over goggles. Thanks
 

htotheunit

htotheunit

Member
I think my recent incident was caused by a combination of Maytec 40A ESC's (simonK) and Tiger 3515 motors. A few people on here have mentioned there are some issues with Maytec ESC's and some tiger motors. Can anyone shed any light on this, or have any recommendations?

I think i'm jumping ship and getting Jeti's I've heard they're very good.
 

kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
that is interesting. what was the incident?

I had a brand new set of u5 on the 40 amp opto red maytecs, had a motor shut off and naza tried to pull out, but no go,,, too low. post mortum showed a dead esc

before that i had non simonK plush esc's on 3520 on this one,,,, still don't know what this was other than BS.... naza in atti tried to fly inverted,,, not suppose to happen, post mortum it all worked
 
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S

sk8brd

Member
kloner there's been i think 4 people on this forum that had crashes lately they were all on maytech simonk k and low kv tigers. mk forums/rc groups/ open pilot/diy drones forums- there's been same type of issues with low kv problem big prop simonk. all the crashes had motor cut out phenomenon. maybe not brand specific esc but they were all on some type of simonk. personally for me i'm styting away too coincidental.
 

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