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Tip shape makes the noise, and although flight time may differ wood props do transmit less vibration to the airframe. That's why we've seen soooo many Cinestars with wood props. For everything there's always a trade off.

You know the motors update using a USB port on the opposite side of the gimbal, yes? You cannot do the motors from the same controller port you did the software. The process is also done on a different page of the GUI you updated the software from..

Oh good. That's the one represented in the attachment.

Fact of life, all wood props require balancing. Sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. Wood has a moisture content. We don't know what it was when the prop was cut, how long it dried, or how it was cured. Then we have natural variables in wood density along with differences in laminates.

1100kv motors and 10" props?

Raise the low level of the throttle to something above 1000 and re-calibrate.

Something really important but almost never related is the power up sequence. Bit me on the butt a few times. Do not power up the gimbal until after the software assistant is opened up and connected between the gimbal and the laptop. If you power up first everything gets lost and doesn't...

If the gimbal and receiver is powered but the transmitter is not the gimbal controller may be searching for it's home position. If it's a new gimbal it may simply need the firmware updated and PID's uploaded from the Tarot software.

Might want to check your numbers again. You have the lightest 10A 6s2p battery in the world listed in the data.

Parts are readily available and a complete parts breakdown is provided with the aircraft. Props, motors, and gears are about the extent of what you might need. Beyond that it's cheaper and faster just to buy another one.

How much can you afford to lose? Initially you should expect to crash a lot and break a few things while you learn the intricacies of how to control a MR. You truly want to learn how to fly without using an autopilot to control the aircraft. Why? Because autopilots do fail, GPS does lose...

Inside or outside, and what mode are you trying to arm in?

Exactly the way I compare ESC performance in testing. You pretty much need to have an input power constant to obtain across the board accuracy between products. As you mentioned, there's too many other variables introduced with batteries.

Might want to consider December before all the dealers offload their inventory and manufacturers shut down for the Chinese New Year a month afterwards...

T-Motor uses the same constant voltage methodology. When testing U-8's I had to take the discharging battery into account, but found the T-Motor specs to be reasonably accurate at the T-Motor referenced voltage.

Another version, the original, is WattsUp volt and ammeter. Available at hobby shops and online. Good unit, reliable and accurate. I use one all the time and send it up in line with the power system to accurately record peak loads. Small and relatively light.

Late post...

Oh my!

You are one of the few that understand the importance of real time kinematics. Thanks for the post.

If the problem resides anywhere within the general electrical system the issue would persist with the FC completely removed from the equation. Essentially remove the FC and drive all the motors from the radio transmitter and receiver and see what does or does not happen. That would also...