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it's all the same stuff, all works great. simonK has voltage monitoring dissabled

I enjoyed running the xy8 of barts, but i didn't like the motors on the bottom. made it weird to handle/transport, for an octo was always seen as a quad by my clients. we fly in up to 24mph winds with a flats, fly up to 40 mph sustained speeds, never really seen a reason to change anything till...

I'm still waiting for some prop comparisons...... :black_eyed:

out of all the brands at HK that's the second worse.... I'd look at turnigy brand and unknown for now, but maybe better is the new multistar high density. i wanna test a set for myself.... the turnigy have good IR readings, are usually fresh and are hard to puff

esc's self sense based on the voltage they see powering up, uses the total voltage to determine when to start shutting off, in a plane it's fine, glide a while, by then the voltage is recovered enough for one last hoorah at a landing and there down, multis drop an arm and fall like a rock when...

Nicely done Mombasa.... FD, Burnquist is a nut, he had a sick vid earlier this summer.... hope the faa never sees what all he does in that robinson, surprised he's still alive

a wire isolator would be rad, wish it was doable the v 2.0 kits are in, you can get them from trappys now, we will have them in another week I'm looking forward to seeing what tbs motor sets are all about. looks like 4006 or 4008. the motors have the rc timer prop quick release built in.

just gotta get it tamed. Were tryin em all

yea, in that direction..... pretty sure that motor wants a 18" prop. if you want to stick with 15-16 look at 3520. ask the manufacturer about the best prop for there motor and decide from there

yea and certain lenses.... I've flown those motors on a disco, i'd be going bigger if possible

i like the PP light nd and there cp

we use the polar pro..... small, light and glass, we use the naked type for the tbs gimbals and such. but i've seen some higher end ones, Chadfish shows....

matching brands is whats working.... t-motor and t-motor, kde and kde,,, read manufacturer websites for recomendations.... in general the hobbywing stock always work, leave all the fancy firmware off em.... best advice is to test em on the bench, it's obvious moving the throttle around with a...

oooh, the lumitry thing looks nice, best one yet. Shoulda known there was something in there. thanks for the post education. to make stuff pop i usually get the white balance looking right, saturate all of it, correct the bright, contrast..... that the right way to go about it? in this case...

I'll have to install that and check it out.... thanks for the info that film convert is better standalone, makes more since and a lot more control....took a few of the clips used above and graded them, made to 422 pro res and uploaded... with my fat thumbs tweeking it...

on the u7, leave it alone as it comes, all you do is set the throttle endpoints and fly em not sure on th 4014, but just put one prop on and run it, rap the throttle, make it do a prolonged run and check for heat, listen for sounds, look for the motor getting jammed up....

that's an interesting deal,,, some looks better, others worse,,,, i gotta get a better understanding of what i'm doing obviously.... is adobe speedgrade something like this? I have the cloud complete suite, never looked at it yet.

pretty cool, is there something like that for premier?

I had naza when it first came out, got into fpv and went with a 1.3 video system, was super stoked. Later dji released a sat puck for it and got it, couldn't get it to lock in from interference, went as far as took off the fpv gear and withing 4 feet of the rig it'd go away All that said i was...

these motors were using are some weird stuff. as a guy that uses common sense as an engineering mindset, they confuse the hell out of me http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_DC_electric_motor it's a form of ac that's more controlled that comes from a dc current