ZTW Spider OPTO 30A....I wasn't paying attention to the trims.... Should they all be zero or not negative or positive?
Let me ask you a personal preference.... If you needed a 30a esc what would be a good better best..... I will look at the setup band might look to replace the ESC.... Thanks.
I know I'm beating a dead horse, but I've had no issues with the Castle 25's and the KDE 515's and I did'nt have to change any endpoints (-100 to +100) to calibrate with the Taranis or the SuperX. Done extensive testing with IR thermo , and they never run more then 10 degrees f more then ambient temp. Just shy of 50 hrs. actual flight time with the SuperX.I have used ZTW, HobbyWing platinum pro and now KDE with the superx and various motors. The HW definitely gave me issues that couldn't be solved, and the ZTW armed (but always worried about the SimonK sync issue) - and even now I sometimes get a slight glitch on one of the KDE. Recycling power fixes it. No problems with the Naza on identical rigs as a test. So it's really more of superx with OPTO issue, in my experience. I would maybe find an ESC that is non-OPTO and do some research to see of others have been successful with your exact rig.
I know I'm beating a dead horse, but I've had no issues with the Castle 25's and the KDE 515's and I did'nt have to change any endpoints (-100 to +100) to calibrate with the Taranis or the SuperX. Done extensive testing with IR thermo , and they never run more then 10 degrees f more then ambient temp. Just shy of 50 hrs. actual flight time with the SuperX.
Are you referring to the connections to the SuperX? If so, only had to remove + FC connections and tie them together, because when I purchased them the quad pack came with 3 with no bec's and one with. Castle since changed where can purchase singles with or without bec's. The way they do it, they isolate the logic circuit from the main esc motor power which requires that you have to supply 5 volts to the receiver leads either from the FC, or if not then you have to get them all with bec's or tie all the positive receiver leads together from the single one included in the quad pack. Negative and signal wires are all i have connected to the SuperX.but it you did have to do something, or the ESC came with so etching to put it in a different light than a typical OPTO setup, correct?
I just thought I would share my customer service experience with Xaircraft. Back in January, I lost the ability to connect to a computer on my SuperX. I emailed superX in China and they gave me a canned response. Like mists companies they had me try various tests, even though my initial email listed all of the tests and various configurations I had tried. I humored them with a few videos showing the issue.
Forward a few months after getting sick of the canned responses and I decided to contact both Xaircraft america and RCbuddy where I got it. BuddyRC had me send them the unit to try to figure I out. They then sent it to Xaircraft in china for repair. It has now been a few months. I send emails to check in and get these back.
"We have just been back from holiday.
Your superX is under repair. Due to many returns,it will be a little slow in process.Please do understand"
"Repairing is under arrangement. Please be aware it will take a little long time due to massive returns."
Uhh... They claim they have customer service, but I have not experienced it yet. I'll probably be an entire year since I first contacted them to get the repair done.
Nothing productive, but thought I would share.
Hey Kloner,
Not trying to change the subject but I would like your opinion on my setup. Im running a 900mm vulcan X8 with 400kv motors, 15x5.5 props, and the SuperX. This is my GH4/5D lifter and I think I'm going crazy trying to get this tuned. It flys ok but seems to kind of sway which is causing my gimbal to not be as steady as i like. The X8 just doesn't give me the piece of mind that my smaller hex did with the superx. Do you think that I should convert it to a hex? I just don't seem to trust the SuperX in the wind with the X8.
Look forward to hearing back.
Thank You!
Thanks Michael and Kloner for chiming in! I had the gains at the same gains I used for my Hex. P 1.2, R 1.2, Y 1 and height at .9 My gain knob is set at 20%. Iv tried lowering the gains to .8 and the rig just was a little more loose in the air, but didn't change much in stability. My vibrations on the blackbox are a bit higher than the hex running around .5. I run the FC on a clean plate with silicone dampeners, might need to change to a softer silicone to get them down a bit. My footage is completely vibration free when hovering but once I start flying forward I'm getting a small jolt every few seconds.
One thing that I noticed right away is when in attitude is at center stick it should hold while flying forward, but my rig seems to start loosing altitude? I will post the black box reading tonight and maybe we can get this bad boy running likes she suppose too. Today I had a shoot for a show and it was gusting around 15-20mph and she held good but I didn't have the peace of mind I did when running the smaller hex. Worst comes to worst I will convert over to a big hex like Kloner.
Ill recheck props etc. Thanks Kloner & Michael.