fltundra
Member
That's exactly what mine did when i first hooked up my esc's. i'd bet the other three don't have bec's?
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XAircraft SuperX
- Thread starter envy
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That's exactly what mine did when i first hooked up my esc's. i'd bet the other three don't have bec's?
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
I was thinking the same Ken. Just having the ESC set back to stock was what I was missing. I had changed the end pint on the taranis first thing (thanks SoCal!) and when it didn't work, I moved on. But I had calibrated the ESC yesterday (or the day before!).
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That's it. I'll never forget it.
Go go back and check post 1039. Follow RTs explanation and you should be on the path to never hearing that god-awful sound again!
fltundra
Member
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Thanks for the link tundra. I actually always understood the principal of the OPTO from using optical compressors (limiters really) in audio. But I never owned OPTO ESCs.
When you are talking about "one not having a BEC" it leads me to believe you actually have non-OPTO ESCs but that a few came without the BEC, since only one is needed to power the FC. That's what I've done with my other builds - removing the redundant wires from the other ESCs so that just one provides the necessary power/ground.
Even on my multiwii board, which needs power (many get it from a BEC), I run a UBEC. To provide a more constant, consistent power to the board, since the BEC can be lower than theFC really wants to see after draw-down. Providing 6v gves the multiwii about 5v across the Vin, and even that can be close to dropping close to the acceptable level if you run a lot of peripherals.
With the superx, since it has it's own power, I knew I didn't need the BEC. But I was under the impression that the red (+) wire was what triggered the OPTO ESC to know that signal was headed it's way. RT cleared that up - and it appears the signal wire alone can open the optical circuit.
Problem em with my set up was that the damn signal was too low. So the OPTO refused to accept the throttle signal. I will wait for testing to see how I feel about these hobby wing platinums, but I can tell you already I find them to be ornery and prissy
When you are talking about "one not having a BEC" it leads me to believe you actually have non-OPTO ESCs but that a few came without the BEC, since only one is needed to power the FC. That's what I've done with my other builds - removing the redundant wires from the other ESCs so that just one provides the necessary power/ground.
Even on my multiwii board, which needs power (many get it from a BEC), I run a UBEC. To provide a more constant, consistent power to the board, since the BEC can be lower than theFC really wants to see after draw-down. Providing 6v gves the multiwii about 5v across the Vin, and even that can be close to dropping close to the acceptable level if you run a lot of peripherals.
With the superx, since it has it's own power, I knew I didn't need the BEC. But I was under the impression that the red (+) wire was what triggered the OPTO ESC to know that signal was headed it's way. RT cleared that up - and it appears the signal wire alone can open the optical circuit.
Problem em with my set up was that the damn signal was too low. So the OPTO refused to accept the throttle signal. I will wait for testing to see how I feel about these hobby wing platinums, but I can tell you already I find them to be ornery and prissy
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all 4 no bec only motor 3 work maybe i reset it by accident
Some of those guys haven't a clue what they're talking about yet they talk like they're experts. One even admits he isn't an electrical engineer but is still trying to explain how things work!
Don't believe everything you read on the forums, especially if the forum is RCG, there is just so much bad information being tossed around over there it's barely worth the time to read most of it.
Bottom line here, the problem was a bad throttle calibration causing the ESCs to not initialize since the calibration information they had in memory was different than what the SuperX was calibrated to during its initial setup. Once that was fixed the ESCs started working and will continue to do so with or without the red and black wires connected to anything, makes no difference they are NOT required for any/all of them to work.
The premise of the "opto" escs we use is to isolate the control signal via an optical chip that passes the signal as light thus eliminating any induced electrical noise in the control signal that can be caused by any number of things not the least of which is poor circuit design of the surrounding electronics. Whether or not they are designed and built according to proper electrical engineering practices is a matter for debate among qualified circuit designing electrical engineers, suffice to say most of the folks giving opinions on RCG are not in that category and the "opto" ESCs sold by the Chinese vendors work just fine when powered solely by the main battery power leads.
Ken
P.S. I've been a systems engineer by trade for something like 33 years now and have done everything from component level repair of circuit boards to design and architecture of enterprise class computer systems used in IC fabrication plants, I do have a bit of a clue as to how this stuff works
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ok i got mine to work all 4 motor thanks Ken it's on default setting now all i need to do is set the stick on the radio calibration is that correct flick the 3 way switch couple time than put throttle in middle flick 3 way again till it solid green than do the side on both stick am i doing it correctly here?:tennis:
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
You have to power cycle between those two calibrations, but yes, it looks like you have it correct. It's in the manual for reference though too.
i did that it work on manual but when in atti 1 start than stop also when you arm it it should start the motor it does not start till i throttle up what am i doing wrong i got an email from support (pick out the red wires, then connect them to a UBEC; and UBEC's ground connect to GB port) this is what email say what is the GB PORT.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Good grief. I got an email saying there shouldn't be a problem
I would try RTs method first before getting into red wire removal. See if you can monkey with the end points enough to get the throttle stick to be in just the right place to engage the opto circuit. And follow the order he mentions in that post earlier. That's the key.I would assume the GB port is the gimbal port??? Not sure why your motors would spin up in one mode and not another.
fltundra
Member
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
This is what worked for you right? Did you tie into the gimbal port for ground?
I figure see if you can get the end points to work first, since it's less soldering and wiring mess. It's good to have a second option.
fltundra
Member
Moto,
One thing i don't get is why you guy's keep calabrating your esc's over again. I did mine only ONE time, each one on receiver ch3 -100 to +100 that's it nada, never again.
fltundra
Member
Another thing that ken said, doesn't make since also. Where is the esc supposed to get the 5 volts it needs to run the logic chip if your connected to 22.1 volt batt. No bec on the package is misleading, because there has to be either a linear on switching power supply "or" 5 volts from receiver or FC to power the esc logic. the opto isolation is for the signal.
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Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Tundra: I would have only calibrated mine 1 time too...if it worked the first time! . But calibration was doing me no good with the motors not arming/spinning.
As as far as the power - I will probably not explain this as well as RT, but it seems that the FC side of an opto ESC is run by the presence of signal, not power as evidenced by your explanation that there is no 5v coming through the + buss on the SuperX, yet my motors/ESCs are currently (no pun intended) working.
I have to to admit I am not fully understanding your setup with the 1 ESC having a BEC (or do I have that wrong???). I sorta got lost in what you were saying Castle was suggesting as a solution.
But at this point my rig is operating as it should (and as I assumed it would without this much hassle) without additional power coming from elsewhere to the ESC.
If yours is working correctly - don't mess with it...don't even look at it... Shhhh, it might hear us
. But calibration was doing me no good with the motors not arming/spinning. As as far as the power - I will probably not explain this as well as RT, but it seems that the FC side of an opto ESC is run by the presence of signal, not power as evidenced by your explanation that there is no 5v coming through the + buss on the SuperX, yet my motors/ESCs are currently (no pun intended) working.
I have to to admit I am not fully understanding your setup with the 1 ESC having a BEC (or do I have that wrong???). I sorta got lost in what you were saying Castle was suggesting as a solution.
But at this point my rig is operating as it should (and as I assumed it would without this much hassle) without additional power coming from elsewhere to the ESC.
If yours is working correctly - don't mess with it...don't even look at it... Shhhh, it might hear us
fltundra
Member
fltundra
Member
Moto, 1 of the three of my castle's esc's has a built in bec, the other three dont. All I did was tie the 4 positive wires together only. Ground and signal coming from m1-m4.
Castle has since changed the way you can get them now with or without bec's since i purchased my quad.
Castle has since changed the way you can get them now with or without bec's since i purchased my quad.
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I almost give up easier getting new esc with bec or just stay with naza light or can i use this for bec
