Photohigher skyline rsgs

Will the Pan work In the new firmware?

The pan lock will be available in a future firmware. The 1.1.6 doesn't have this feature.

You can use the pan by pluging it directly in your receiver and control it directly. Of course you won't have the pan lock :/
Be carefull to remove the belt for initial setup of the pan, remove the belt, power on your pan sevo, trim it until it stop spinning, power off the servo, replace the belt.

best regards,
Cédric
 

ATFlyer

Member
I wondered whether the pan kit for the Photohigher gimbals contributed to the poor performance of the Skyline.
The gimbal doesn't seem to be as rigidly attached to the gear rail bracket when using the pan than when it's bolted directly to the alloy bracket.

I've noticed that the jitter throws the weight of the camera which flexes the gear rail bracket. This is seen by the Skyline as unwanted movement which it compensates for thus perpetuating the cycle. The answer was to reduce the gain settings.

Anyone else had this problem?
 

Here is another test. Sorry about the focus but couldnt be arsed to redo it all, nevertheless I think you can see what I am getting at.
It seems to calm down after a while, dunno why this is. Also I have the Pan attached. It is completely isolated and turning it has no effect on the jitter.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

I wondered whether the pan kit for the Photohigher gimbals contributed to the poor performance of the Skyline.
I have a pan kit on an AV200 and also had one on a 130. The whole thing is certainly less rigid and this has some effect on the video. Actually I am thinking of taking mine off because it is just as easy to pan the whole machine!
Things might be different when the skyline is able to lock the pan.
 

flytahiti

Member
i have both , skyline and hover fly gimbal . i haven't try skyline yet but hover fly gimbal with AV200 works realy fine when it's well tunned not so far from the dji Z15 . i keep the skyline until problems will be solved.
 

DJIFlyer

Member
i have both , skyline and hover fly gimbal . i haven't try skyline yet but hover fly gimbal with AV200 works realy fine when it's well tunned not so far from the dji Z15 . i keep the skyline until problems will be solved.

That's a good endorsement. I am going to do a little more research and will probably buy one. Thanks!
 

DucktileMedia

Drone Enthusiast
ok, I finally had a moment to try the new firmware and i cant even get the gimbal to not start rolling around so much it lifts the heli off the ground! The firmware installed ok. It's a very weird setup as you are supposed to hit the run button and then plug in the power? Anyways, I cant get further as every time I plug power to the skyline it goes through it's massive roll tilt cycle and lifts up the heli which cant be good for anything. I unplug it rapidly when this happens. I'm about to try my old xaircraft FC as a separate gimbal control. I actually remember that being one of the things I liked about it. Anyone want to buy a Skyline? I dont feel like PH is going to be refunding anything. I dont doubt the performance will get better but I just dont have the time or effort to une a DJI wookong, a Hoverfly pro and now the skyline. Too much for my limited mental capacity these days.
 

DennyR

Active Member
Here is another test. Sorry about the focus but couldnt be arsed to redo it all, nevertheless I think you can see what I am getting at.
It seems to calm down after a while, dunno why this is. Also I have the Pan attached. It is completely isolated and turning it has no effect on the jitter.

It seems to be related to deadband. So with more camera inertia or weight offset. It could be ironing out the feedback discrepancy. It is in effect trying to run two deadbands.
The first thing to do is to get rid of the backlash in the drive system. A spring may be the answer. Or use two servos with a offset neutral to provide a slight torque bias. That is how my own creations work.
 
Last edited by a moderator:


thijmen5

Member
I am getting kinda bored with this thing either. Everytime I pan the tray is completely off horizon, and tilt is pointed towards the sky everytime there is a little wind or if I fly backwards, more gain gives the unstoppable jitter.

When I install firmware 1.1.3 it says that I have 0.0.2 installed. When I install 1.1.6 it´s correct even tho I can not use it completely since my servos don´t stop spinning at 1.1.6, 1.1.3 is ok at that point.
 

It seems to be related to deadband. So with more camera inertia or weight offset. It could be ironing out the feedback discrepancy. It is in effect trying to run two deadbands.
The first thing to do is to get rid of the backlash in the drive system. A spring may be the answer. Or use two servos with a offset neutral to provide a slight torque bias. That is how my own creations work.


Thanks for the tip, Placed felt washers behind the tilt pulley and roll cog. Tightened until enough resistance to kill deadband, but not enough to make too much resistance to the movement of the servo.
(On an AV200)
Changed the H harness for 2 daisy chained Y leads. Clipped signal lead from power input and red power lead from skyline input. Wound the 2 servo outputs through a toroid.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Oh yes, also fixed the creep like this.
1.Set level.
2.Autotune servos.
3.Fine tune by manually adjusting tilt and roll parameters until the camera tray does not move at all when you power the servos on and off via the software
 



I am not saying it is a solution that will work for everyone but it seems to work for me. I still have to use it in the air!
All you need do is remove the pully from the tilt servo, place a felt washer about 2mm thick, or a nylon washer should be more durable, over the servo boss. replace the pully and tighten the pully up against the washer so as to cause a bit of friction between the pully and the servo body. If the servo stalls because you tighten too much then just slacken off a bit. If you cannot tighten enough to cause friction then use a thicker washer. I have replaced my felt washer with a nylon one. One is just right, 2 is too thick. I will measure the thickness tomorrow for anyone who wants to know.
I guess yu could also experiment with a sprung washer of the wavy kind.
Basically the friction should be just enough to kill any backlash in the deadband. It doesnt take much.
Do exactly the same with the roll cog.
As for the harness; I will make a little video to show how it goes together and post it tomorrow. I dont know if the toroids help the jitter but it is a convenient way to take up slack wire. The more tangle of long wires there is, the more chance there is for cross-talk to occur and possibly aggravate the jitter. Decoupling capacitors might also help but I havnt seen much benefit from this.
 


Forrest12

Member
One important thing I have found also, That is if you use Auto tune on 1.16 and have your rc reciver connected , Make sure all your trims on your transmitter are neutral before you run the Auto tune.
 



DennyR

Active Member

Thanks for the tip, Placed felt washers behind the tilt pulley and roll cog. Tightened until enough resistance to kill deadband, but not enough to make too much resistance to the movement of the servo.
(On an AV200)
Changed the H harness for 2 daisy chained Y leads. Clipped signal lead from power input and red power lead from skyline input. Wound the 2 servo outputs through a toroid.
Chris
What you did was to remove the deadband from the mechanical camera mount linkage and add a dampener. As seen by the IMU, but no change to the servo gearbox backlash. So I think that the addition of a small spring to take out that movement would make it even better. The dampener could be causing some reduced resolution at small rates of change. The spring would improve that
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Top