remove them completely. yes. gyro acts as potentiometer. did you read the manual?
Here are a few misleading things I can point out.
1. manual 1.2 is the first version (1.0) while manual 1.1 is the newest one (1.1) this only matters if you are looking in your previous downloads and you had this file.
2. this is just a suggestion, but when you disengage the belts and you are trying to level the gimbal, dont try and support the gimbal like I did, instead just use a battery as weight on the tray and level it that way. I felt pretty stupid after trying to prop up the tray for 20 minutes when this occurred to me.
3. When you get to "Tuning the Skyline" you need to plug in the serial to usb AND the power to the skyline BEFORE connecting to the skyline's com port. It is ok that the program is running but if you try and connect and then add power, then hit "power on/servo on" the servos will continuously spin and never stop. This was at least my experience. The manual does state this but it is easy to over look.
4. when fine adjusting the centering values to get the gimbal to not drift, go a few clicks past where it stops and see the number of clicks it takes to make the servo start to barely creep the other direction. Then adjust back half way. In other words if you need to be at 800 for roll to stop but it doesnt start creeping again until 804, then adjust center to 802.
The rest of the manual pretty clear.
I dont think servo travel limits are working right now nor do I see any difference when i adjust travel gains. I am running a Castle Creations 10amp BEC at the default 5v output and I cant imagine the gimbal needing to run any faster than this. it is already superior to my DJI controlled av130. As some controls are disabled, I think the defaults are not bad to get you flying. I have my pan servo plugged directly into the Rx and the roll/tilt are compensated. Tilt override is at a useable speed and can be pretty well tuned just using expo/servo travel on the Tx.
Yuri