Help Naza not behaving, all over the place

[Bruiserbill]

Ok Finally had time to play around held the multi copter by it's gear. ran it looking for the motor that cut out. after i found it i pulled the bullet conectors out just slightly to see if i could get a better connection. Problem has seemed to vanished. Heres me blaming naza for a bad controller. anyway it does seem to be the bullet conectors. Next question is how do I create a reliable conection between the esc motors?

Bill

Thanks to all

 

[DesJardins]

I'm exploring new motor options... I'm just pissed this is why I paid for.
Part of the hobby though

Id either change the bullets, direct solder them to the ESC or get different motors

 

[estiavilla]

Ok, I have spent the last hour dismentleing the escs and removing all bullet connectors.
Now the motor wires are permently soldered to the escs, rechecked all solder joints and are happy.
Will test fly tomorrow and report my findings...

 

[DesJardins]

Ok, I have spent the last hour dismentleing the escs and removing all bullet connectors.
Now the motor wires are permently soldered to the escs, rechecked all solder joints and are happy.
Will test fly tomorrow and report my findings...

I'll be doing the same for now so I'd like to hear your results!

Thanks

 

[kloner]

if you took and held the motor wire before the bullet and made that steady with the esc, took solder and just make the bullet wet, it'll reheat the other joints on either side and should give you what your after, but, if you change motors you'll want to proceed cautiously to not get it too solid. You'll want to cut off any heatshrink and redo it after to prevent shorts

 

[DesJardins]

So I'm wondering if it's just better to cut the bullet off and solder the wire the outside of the ESC's 3 pots?
Would have to peel back some of the heatshrink covering but that's not a biggie

 

[kloner]

other than stretching the wires to take em out, theres no difference if it's all soldered. alot less work to just solder it the way it sits. Clamp the motor wire to the arm and wet it out........ take 5 minutes to do em all. Those dji motors got a cover over the insulated wire. The actual wire inside is so small i wouldn't be surprised if some of this isn't that wire cracking, appearing heat shrunk and fine, but when soldered makes good contact again. Theres so many thing that go wrong with solder. might be why i don't have problems, solder it all myself, not some kid in china that just wants to eat, not care about a crash over it...

 

[Bruiserbill]

not a bad idea I think I will try that with the motors in question question before I commit to all 6. won't be happening today though I am on my way to work

 

[estiavilla]

I'll be doing the same for now so I'd like to hear your results!

Thanks

Finally tested out my f450 without bullet connectors, i have flew 5 packs of lipos, so far no issues of dropping off in the air, all flight was locked on, as commanded from my Tx radio....
I did twice failsafe home return, beautiful too.

Hopefully removing those bullet connectors solves my problem, will fly somemore and test further...
So far so good !

 

[DesJardins]

Finally tested out my f450 without bullet connectors, i have flew 5 packs of lipos, so far no issues of dropping off in the air, all flight was locked on, as commanded from my Tx radio....
I did twice failsafe home return, beautiful too.

Hopefully removing those bullet connectors solves my problem, will fly somemore and test further...
So far so good !

Nice, have any pics of how you completed the install?

 

[Bruiserbill]

its a relief to hear it works I am going to solder this morning. Did you solder to the wires direct or to the female end of the connector?

Bill

 

[Bruiserbill]

okay problem has been solved I pulled out the bullet connectoram fill the female and with solder un.
salted the male part and put the bare wire in the solder filled female connector seems to be rock solid now.

 

[kloner]

that's what i'd of done. soldered is soldered

 

[estiavilla]

its a relief to hear it works I am going to solder this morning. Did you solder to the wires direct or to the female end of the connector?

Bill

I split the shrink rap on the esc, removed the esc's female motor leads, then soldered the motor wires directly onto the esc tab, then i used back the shrink rap and tape with scotch tape...

 

[Gump]

Maybe with the advent high powered lipo and brushless combos in this hobby its time that someone approaches the manufacturers and demands a very high quality 3-wire connector for easy brushless motor disconnect. I know I'd use them on my 8th scale stuff immediately.Seems like they could be used here too.

 

[kloner]

I think what were seeing is competition within the chineese,,,,, dji vs klones

 

[birdseyeap]

I’ve been following this thread with great interest. My crash was last Saturday (prior video) and I had to work away from home for the week. So after all this I will finally be able to get back to the F550 and start my repairs. What I have gathered so far is that there are two failure modes here. One is the “flip down” and the other is the “dip” or out of control reverse. The flip down seems to be on the F440 and the dips on the F550. This would make sense since the F450 is a quad and one motor dropping out would make it flip whereas the hexrotor would be less affected by the loss of a motor. It sounds like our conclusion is that the problem is the bullet connectors, or other cause of a loss of power to a motor like my cold solder joint. Please let me know if I have interpreted the comments correctly.

Finally, my big question is how to proceed when I get back home to work on it. I have one broken arm including a kinked ESC and the top plate is also broken, so I will certainly have to replace some parts. Should I simply replace the bad ones and do some static testing to see if any other motors fail, or should I dive in and do the whole bullet connector replacement and re-soldering? Right now I’m leaning toward doing the whole cleanup and remove the bullet connectors since they seem to be problematic anyway. My only hesitation is not knowing for sure I have solved the problem until I have many successful flights without having any of the dreaded dips or flip downs that lurking out there waiting to crash my ‘copter again.

Thanks again, this has been very helpful.

 

[DesJardins]

I am replacing the motors all together, no more chances for me.
:shrug:

 

[kloner]

I'm afraid to tell you to cheat and crash again, but if it was mine, i'd go over each motors bullet and bend that metal thing thats like a spring, do it all the way around and just enough to put tension in the connector. only a little bit on each one..... you will most likely see one that's compressed more than the others, maybe more. deans are the same way, gotta know how to deal with them to make them work, gotta keep the thing that puts pressure on the connection to stay bent and pre loaded. The other pretty reasonable explanation is motor wire where it goes into the bullet gets cracked. out of all the wires in the system, those are thin,m hard and brittle. how these guys are fixing it by soldering the motor wire to whatever bypasses that connection, just not sure it won't crack still. all aftermarket motors have extremely different wires coming out of them. alot thicker, not double insulated, different

 

[estiavilla]

**** !
I crashed my other set powered by Mwc...

It was due to a very bad soldering joint in the motor lead that connects to the male bullet connector.
I was able to pull it out easily from the male bullet, and it didn't break the wire, cos there is a hole where the wire was !

Learnt my mistake, from now on, every motors that i bought, with factory terminated bullets, i will remove the shrink fit and reheat with my soldering iron, make sure the solder is shinny, if dull one, replace with your own good quality solder.

Hope these helps others....