DJI NAZA V2 with Turnigy 9x Transmitter - PROBLEMS & PROBLEMS

[jbrumberg]

There seems to have been no clarification of whether the sub-trims have been centered before the assistant cal.

This would be key before doing anything.

Hey Dan,
I've just noticed, that Lipo looks low. If it's showing 11.3v in assistant with no load its nearly flat.
Should be well over 12v when fully charged.
Also, check you battery protection in assistant. Turn it off while we sort this out to eliminate any intervention it may be having.
Andy

I agree and check the end points. Dis-engage the battery stuff with the NAZA. Deal with that later.......... Get it airborne

 

[dan123]

Battery has been fully charger and ballance. Still no joy!

What do you mean check the end points? I have done the stick calibration on the Naza assistant and it's seems to work on the software. I.e if I move the control to the left it shows on screen etc

One thing I have noticed is that if I put the stick in full lock, some of the numbers read 1000 on the software whilst in the other direction it only reads 968 not the full 1000? Would this effect anything?

As you can tell I am new to this.

Thanks again

 

[AndyPG]

What do you mean check the end points? I have done the stick calibration on the Naza assistant and it's seems to work on the software.

You need to go into the tx menu system and check end points, sub trims, expotential etc etc.
They should all be default setting.
If they are not, return them to default and do the stick calibration again.

Andy.

 

[AndyPG]

Make sure the throttle is operating in the right direction in assistant.
It it is reversed, that could cause this issue.

Andy.

 

[AndyPG]

Throttle curve should be;
L =00
1=25%
2=50%
3=75%
H=100%

Pitch curve should be a flat line in each 3 position switch position.

Subtrims should be all at 000

End points should all read exactly 100%

Throttle hold should be set to INH

Dual rates should all be off but set to 100

EXP should be 000

Andy

 

[jbrumberg]

Dan- One checks on end points and subtrim settings through the 9X transmitter's functions (Wrench) settings menu. On function settings screen #2 toggle down to and enter the "Display" screen. Do your stick movements match the display? And does the range of movement of the different channels move to ~75% of endpoint when the sticks and toggles are moved lock point to lock point?

I recently upgraded to this flight controller and I am still learning the basics of programming and fine tuning; but I agree with the other posters that something is off with the stick calibration. You should be able to arm the FC.

I would disengage the battery voltage safeguard at this point until you can arm the FC.

I would not worry about the channel range differences at this point. I am getting similar variations, it does not seem to appear to affect flight control at this stage of my learning curve. Like I posted I am new with this FC.

Good luck.

Jay

 

[dan123]

Checked the settings on the tx and all are default. The only settings that have been changed is the program mix.
Mix 1
State act
Master Gea
Slave pit
Offset 000
UPRATE 035
DNRATE 000
SW nor

Mix2
State act
Master Gea
Slave pit
Offset 000
UPRATE 040
DNRATE 000
SW id1

The only other option that has been changed is the end point on the 3 position switch .

Apart from that everything else is default

 

[dan123]

Jbrumburg YesAll movements go to 75% on the display on the tx when in full lock. Thanks

 

[Motopreserve]

Are there trims on the outside of your radio? Physical switches that can be moved up and down next to each stick?

If so, make sure those are centered (most radios have a different beep when centered). If those are centered - and all end points are centered in the software/LCD menu, do the stick cal again in assistant. Like Andy mentions, look for any inconsistency (stick goes right, assistant shows left).

 

[dan123]

Andy all settings match as you said.
Still no effect .

Thanks

 

[dan123]

Trims are all centred on the tx. Thanks. Still no effect

 

[Motopreserve]

Have you moved any end points or sub trims since you did the esc/throttle cal? I would do this again after doing the assistant stick cal again. I know - total pain. But this seems to be a stick misalignment not telling the motors to arm.

One thing you could try is to move the throttle sub-trim (physical one) down and then try arming. Sometimes this will put it into position to allow arming.

 

[dan123]

Success it all is working after reseting and re doing everything

I have now balanced the props and put them all on.

It isn't taking off thou. I think one of the motors is turning the wrong way. Any ideas on how to change the direction?

I have the 2 props marked wth a r on oposite each other and the 2 props without the r oposite each other.

 

[Motopreserve]

I would suggest going back to the manual and checking the direction the motors are supposed to spin. Then with props off, within assistant you can do a motor test. That will tell which motors are going the correct/incorrect direction. For the ones that are incorrect, swap 2 of the 3 esc to motor wires. That reverses the direction.

If you put some tape on the side of the motor - it can help you tell which direction they're spinning.

 

[jbrumberg]

Dan is it working?

If the motor is spinning in the wrong direction switch the red and yellow motor lead wires connecting to the ESC leads. Do not switch the black/brown (-)wire.

The "R (right direction/CW) spin" props go on Motors #2 an #4 The unlabeled props go on #1 and #4 for and "X" quad. I mistakenly thought that "R" meant reverse spin (CCW) when I first built my quad. It made me crazy having that quad sitting there, props spinning at full RPM. The motors spun in the correct manner, but they had the wrong props.

 

[dan123]

Swapping the wires worked perfect. Thanks for your help!

I did notice it was pulling heavily to one direction, but I can play with that tomorrow and re calibrate the compass to hopefully sort that out.

Thanks again.

 

[Motopreserve]

Make sure you check out the procedure for startup and wait a sufficient amount of time for the lights to change on LED. Taking off prematurely before GPS lock can be a bad scene

Congrats! You're very close.

 

[jbrumberg]

I would not rely on GPS for take off. Take off in ATT or manual after you get GPS lock.......... You'll have more control; the GPS liftoff tends to be a little unpredictable .

 

[Motopreserve]

+1. I typically never liftoff or land with GPS. Well, unless I forget

 

[jbrumberg]

I seem to forget about the GPS stuff coming in for that landing "at times" myself ; but I do have a very loud, low voltage alarm/meter that at times brings me back to "focus" for the landing and that with the assistance of a countdown timer with the Tx. I have all kinds of "noise" when it's time to return to landing site.