DJI A2 Official Users' Thread
- Thread starter Bartman
- Start date
CloudVisual
Member
I am 100% certain that it's blue and not violet. Whilst they can look the same, the violet needs two LEDs and this is just the blue one flashing.
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Then it means no TX communication.. I dont understand how it would even take off.
Dave
CloudVisual
Member
It takes off, for sure. LED code in flight, with clear sight of the sky, is one blue flash, followed by three blue flashes.
I've bought a Dbus adapter in the hope that it's just the stupid satellite receivers having problems. I'd move to Futaba, but I'm quite set in my ways with Spektrum.
I've got two spare satellite Rx, so I'm going to swap out the current ones and see if that changes anything.
I've bought a Dbus adapter in the hope that it's just the stupid satellite receivers having problems. I'd move to Futaba, but I'm quite set in my ways with Spektrum.
I've got two spare satellite Rx, so I'm going to swap out the current ones and see if that changes anything.
blade strike
Member
I would start with the basics. Make sure all firmware is up to date and start with default settings and a new model memory on the radio. Something is not right as what you are describing is not how the a2 operates.
CloudVisual
Member
I reset it all back to default settings and made doubly sure all modules were up to day, but I haven't set up a new model yet. I'm going to take the satellite receivers out too and start from scratch.
I'll see what that manages to change...!
I'll see what that manages to change...!
CloudVisual
Member
Everything got reset. New model on the Tx and everything reset.
Re-updated all the components via the Assistant.
Two new satellite Rx's onboard.
Gimbal, Bluetooth GCS, retracts all unplugged
Set up as a new craft and put all the settings in. Sorted the endpoints, failsafe, home, rough gains, IMU position, GPS position.
Power cycled and went through with compass calibration, away from any source of interference.
Power cycled again.
So, I am back to exactly where I was before
Here is the LED stuff - I really can't find anything about the IMU LED codes, but it was giving the same code as it is after the full reset.
IMU code, 1 green 1 red 7 green
LED flashes from power:
In GPS mode, Three green as soon as power gets to it, then Blue flashing x 2 until home position recorded with rapid green flashes. Then back to Blue flashing.
In atti mode, same as above, but all Green
In Manual mode No LEDS flash at all.
I'll post a pic of the assistant and all the settings.
Re-updated all the components via the Assistant.
Two new satellite Rx's onboard.
Gimbal, Bluetooth GCS, retracts all unplugged
Set up as a new craft and put all the settings in. Sorted the endpoints, failsafe, home, rough gains, IMU position, GPS position.
Power cycled and went through with compass calibration, away from any source of interference.
Power cycled again.
So, I am back to exactly where I was before
Here is the LED stuff - I really can't find anything about the IMU LED codes, but it was giving the same code as it is after the full reset.
IMU code, 1 green 1 red 7 green
LED flashes from power:
In GPS mode, Three green as soon as power gets to it, then Blue flashing x 2 until home position recorded with rapid green flashes. Then back to Blue flashing.
In atti mode, same as above, but all Green
In Manual mode No LEDS flash at all.
I'll post a pic of the assistant and all the settings.
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CloudVisual
Member
They are in Can 1, as per P38 of the Manual.
Should I just take the A2 back?!
Should I just take the A2 back?!
blade strike
Member
Wow, Can you try this? Power on in manual mode, if you do not get any red flashes then I would say something is up with that unit. Have you tried calling support?
CloudVisual
Member
Powered on in manual mode and had an instant run of green flashes and then absolutely nothing.
I probably spent an hour moving from 16th place to 9th on the tech support number and gave up as I had to go out.
How on earth do I prove that there's something wrong with it, if it performs exactly as it should (bar the issue with the wind) but with all the LEDs flashing in the wrong colour?!
I probably spent an hour moving from 16th place to 9th on the tech support number and gave up as I had to go out.
How on earth do I prove that there's something wrong with it, if it performs exactly as it should (bar the issue with the wind) but with all the LEDs flashing in the wrong colour?!
MombasaFlash
Heli's & Tele's bloke
Well I flew the A2 with the EVO yesterday (this is on the equator) and it did everything right.
But this was after replacing both the A2's Main Control box - the first one was just bad and made the clockwise motors 'spasm' - and the IMU. The first IMU seemed to have some sort of calibration issue that affected the Z15-GH3 Roll axis. It remains to be seen whether the system continues to behave predictably.
The Z15-GH3 is noisy and clunky but it performs well and, unlike the original Z15-G, has displayed no tendency so far to do a little fart every now then, resulting in an occasional small Tilt or Roll jolt.
Interestingly (annoyingly ??) the two Zens are not fully compatible with the WKM (with IMU.v2 - aka A2 IMU) and the A2. Both camera mounts perform normally with the WKM but the older Z15-G horizon settles nearly 2° off with the A2.
But this was after replacing both the A2's Main Control box - the first one was just bad and made the clockwise motors 'spasm' - and the IMU. The first IMU seemed to have some sort of calibration issue that affected the Z15-GH3 Roll axis. It remains to be seen whether the system continues to behave predictably.
The Z15-GH3 is noisy and clunky but it performs well and, unlike the original Z15-G, has displayed no tendency so far to do a little fart every now then, resulting in an occasional small Tilt or Roll jolt.
Interestingly (annoyingly ??) the two Zens are not fully compatible with the WKM (with IMU.v2 - aka A2 IMU) and the A2. Both camera mounts perform normally with the WKM but the older Z15-G horizon settles nearly 2° off with the A2.
Hey MombasaFlash-when you said earlier that the imu affected the roll axis of the gimbal are you meaning that the horizon was off all the time or did it show up when panning using the yaw of the copter or just horizon loss when pan was initiated using a second remote like as in a second operator. i have been holding off on ordering the gimbal cause of reports of horizon loss on pan with 2nd op in control. just trying sort this out cause it's holding me up on my build but don't want to order something where everyone has the same problem. i been asking around here and searching post's on the subject but seem's like a common issue on the z15-5d's wasn't sure if it effected the gh3's as well. thanks
MombasaFlash
Heli's & Tele's bloke
The Z15-GH3 Roll axis had a 2° lean to the right when powered up or centered. As I had another complete A2 sitting here, that had been sent because of the motor spasms, and only the Main Control box had been used, I tried swapping the IMU as well and the horizon issue was significantly alleviated - not eradicated. The final 'straightening' was done with a physical adjustment by rolling the Tilt/Roll tray around the Roll Axis motor spindle.
However this was only on the bench.
A subsequent video test, which was actually rounding off an unfinished job, produced good stable, level results. But, as I am operating solo here, without a separate camera op., I cannot comment too much on its 360 behaviour.
Overall I found the Zen-GH3 to be better in terms of stability and unwanted twitches than the first generation. I still do not like its rough and bouncy Reset and 90° Tilt behaviour.
However this was only on the bench.
A subsequent video test, which was actually rounding off an unfinished job, produced good stable, level results. But, as I am operating solo here, without a separate camera op., I cannot comment too much on its 360 behaviour.
Overall I found the Zen-GH3 to be better in terms of stability and unwanted twitches than the first generation. I still do not like its rough and bouncy Reset and 90° Tilt behaviour.
thanks a lot man!!. i would be operating as a single operator as well so as long as your getting decent level footage it could be a go for me. was it hard to roll the tray around the roll axis spindle. i imagine it's involves loosening some bolt and spinning by hand? sorry to keep pestering you but want to know if i can solve the issue as you did incase mine show's similar result. the people that would possibly hire me for gigs are picky about these things and an off horizon would be an issue .
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MombasaFlash
Heli's & Tele's bloke
Adjusting the physical Roll Axis centre is a breeze - easier than the later releases of the Z15-G, which have indents on the Roll motor shaft for the set screws that are themselves inside an enclosure allowing only one to be visible at a time. With the Z-GH3 you loosen the two bolts on the clamp around the Roll Axis motor shaft and rotate the Roll/Tilt tray about the shaft to the required degree.
Needless to say, the amount of rotation required will be extremely small and it will undoubtedly require several attempts to get it right. Do not attempt this with the Zen powered up, because as you rotate the tray the IMU will be moving as well and will send commands to the Roll Axis to compensate, leading to all merry hell.
Make a small mark on the shaft before you start as a reference and rotate the tray in mini-micro steps, re-clamp it and check the horizon centre before repeating the whole process until you are satisfied.
Needless to say, the amount of rotation required will be extremely small and it will undoubtedly require several attempts to get it right. Do not attempt this with the Zen powered up, because as you rotate the tray the IMU will be moving as well and will send commands to the Roll Axis to compensate, leading to all merry hell.
Make a small mark on the shaft before you start as a reference and rotate the tray in mini-micro steps, re-clamp it and check the horizon centre before repeating the whole process until you are satisfied.
CloudVisual
Member
After thorough testing and plenty of head scratching, the issue of the sluggish response has been resolved.
I'm flying different Lipos, namely; Turnigy 5000mah, 30-40C (paired) and Zippy Compact 5800mah, 25C (Paired)
The C rating on the Zippy lipos is not sufficient enough for the S800 to manage full tilt when asked. It may attempt it, but chuck in another request and there's little to no chance of getting something worthy out of it. Far too dangerous to use commercially, as they do not react fast enough in an emergency.
I swapped to the Turnigy lipos and it was pure flying bliss. Full control and managed to get a great response.
Still stuck with these funky LED codes. I'm thinking that the LED codes are correct, as such, but just all in different colours.
Oh and if you're interested, fully loaded flight time is 12 minutes.
I'm flying different Lipos, namely; Turnigy 5000mah, 30-40C (paired) and Zippy Compact 5800mah, 25C (Paired)
The C rating on the Zippy lipos is not sufficient enough for the S800 to manage full tilt when asked. It may attempt it, but chuck in another request and there's little to no chance of getting something worthy out of it. Far too dangerous to use commercially, as they do not react fast enough in an emergency.
I swapped to the Turnigy lipos and it was pure flying bliss. Full control and managed to get a great response.
Still stuck with these funky LED codes. I'm thinking that the LED codes are correct, as such, but just all in different colours.
Oh and if you're interested, fully loaded flight time is 12 minutes.
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