Brushless Gimbal for NEX 5/6/7/550D or GF2


SMP

Member
Hi Musky,

Could you also please send me the firmware you used and the loader.

OK. Good news. Just received the gimbal. Will post impressions as I go along.

First impression is that that there is nothing in the box but the gimbal and a clear plate. No mounting method of any kind. No instructions of any kind. Packing was marginal, just some bubble wrap and not nearly enough. The box was beat up badly but thats pretty common in the Middle East. Still more packing is in order. Musky is taking a lot on faith. The build quality is good. Finish is good, slots are cut and sized well. Its quite heavy. You can see that thought has gone into the engineering with guide slots, cable slots and hardware all emphasizing strength. As I said, it's not light. It is Solid. To be candid, will have to watch payload weight if this is gonna go on a 550 frame. The motors are IPower 4008 with 150 turns and the windings look good. The tilt tray has a bearing on the non-motor end. It is NOT adjustable vertically for the roll axis so your camera COG has to be adjusted via tray depth only. I knew that going in.

It took FOREVER to get here. Both in the initial shipping and then in transit. Transit shipping not Muskys fault. The initial shipping delay however was supposedly as I had requested two custom mounts. Musky has a flat plate mount and a mount with rings to accept rods. I asked for one of each and was happy to pay the difference. What showed up was neither. Simply a clear plate. No hardware, no mount, no vibration. If you take a look at the first post Muskys pictures show the mount. Getting hardware may be a small thing somewhere else but when you are in the Middle East or an developing country its virtually FRIGGEN IMPOSSIBLE! He also states "plug n play". Thats not what you get. He also states Alexmos Firmware but doesnt mention its on a Martinez board. ZERO documentation to find out where to get the loaders, firmware, gui etc so hardly plug and play.

So the whole is, I'm a wee bit frustrated. The good news is, its definitely not a piece of ****. IF it can be made to work without a lot of hassle it might be worth it but at this price point I'm STRONGLY suggesting Musky update his post to detail EXACTLY what you get, what you need and instructions on where to get the software to program etc.

Dan, I think you're genuinely a nice guy but now you're doing business as a vendor which means you are held to a certain level of quality and support. Lets see what happens from this point forward.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Musky

Member
Hello SMP,

I am very gald you recived the gimbal . The support is better and cheaper to send it by email ( ne needs cables ...or soemthing else ) You have adjustable vertically we will make a movie to show you how to adjust. I am open for feedback because the product will be better and is better for me like person also. If someone have something to replace or missing ( shipping problems) just tel as.

SMP sorry for delay but i cant control the POST OFFICE.
 

SMP

Member
I think this is where to start:

http://www.simplebgc.com/files/v10/connection_diagram.pdf
http://www.simplebgc.com/files/v10/SimpleBGC_manual_1_2_eng.pdf
http://www.simplebgc.com/files/XLoader.zip
http://www.simplebgc.com/files/AvrdudeR.zip

Please forward any additional information to steven@steventziegler
Please send mounting hardware to the same address and a price for same and I will paypal monies needed.
Please start a new thread for support showing your TILT Workaround and Vertical Adjustment and any additional tips you think can help. Please bear in mind that for ALL of us who have just purchased your gimbal that we are COMPLETELY new to working with brushless gimbals and BCG GUIs etc.

Don't expect you to control the post office my friend. :) Do expect you to control everything else ;) ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:

SMP

Member
First Question - Schematic shows 2S to 4S ok. Just confirming that this doesn't need a BEC to drop it down to 5.5-6V
 



SMP

Member
Dan, can the camera tray board be relocated under the camera tray? If so does it still need to face up?

Just started playing with the gimbal, getting everything balanced. The bottom of the tray has a bit of flex and could use another layer. So far the vertical tray adjustment system is well thought out and very precise!
 
Last edited by a moderator:


Musky

Member
SMP .you dont need another layer because when you put camera it will be very stiff .can you be more explicit because i cant understand what you try to ask

:(

Jem . i have space on PM :)
 

SMP

Member
Did some basic balancing and then Powered up the board. Got some lights and viola, it's alive!! That's nice!! The tilt started slowly creeping forward but I'm used to the Skyline trying to rotate itself to death and quickly pulled the plug. Not perfect but a great start!! So now, working on getting the balance perfect and then will go for a calibration.

Tips: 1. Balancing is a PITA but gimbal simply won't work unless its right. This takes a ton of time. Factor that into your evening and the amount of beers left in the fridge. 2. The power pins on the board are small and mounted Under the mounting plate ie upside down. This makes it difficult to see and easy to reverse polarity. Recommend adding a jst to a switch to your battery plug of choice to make power on/offs a whole lot easier while it's on your desk.

Dan; You're right, the bottom plate is fine once camera is mounted. Loved the Markings and height adjustment screw on the sides of the camera tray. Would suggest adding similar markings to Roll. Would suggest just mounting the tilt sensor board under the camera tray to start.
 

SMP

Member
Quick update.

Balancing will consume most of your life with these gimbals as when you make a change, remove the camera to get to the bolts and then test, repeat, loosen, adjust, test, remove, repeat etc. So specific to the Musky here's what we've learned.

Start with Roll, loosen bolts but keep slight tension. Enough tension that it takes two hands and a bit of force. Otherwise you'll go scooting right past where you wanted and viola starting over. Put the whole thing in your lap and move in micro increments. Small changes have big effects. It would be FANTASTIC if the Roll axis used the same captive screw system as the Tilt.

The Tilt is a LOT easier due to Muskys design with a captive screw! WELL DONE DAN!! Same thing, loosen bolts but keep slight tension. Enough tension that it doesnt move by hand but WILL move when you turn the screw. Looking straight into the front of the camera make sure its well below the centerline of the Tilt motor. Basically you want the camera COG to be BELOW the motor and heavier on the bottom. Again tension on the camera bolt and then slide forward and back on the camera tray until the Cam is balanced forward and back. As its heavier on the bottom it will come to rest pointing forward and perfectly straight. It's tempting to stop here, don't!. You're almost there. NOW start using the tilt screw to raise the camera centerline to the tilt motor centerline. It's perfect when the camera can stop at any position between 90 degrees and 0 degree's level. Same process as the servo gimbals really but everythings harder to get to on these. Balance by counting the hash marks on the tray and as you get closer, how many turns on the screw, to how many half turns. Yup it matters.

Ok. Assuming everything is balanced. You have the Alex Gui shortcuts on the desktop. You have a on/off switch plugged into the board and waiting on your battery. You've DISCONNECTED the motors. Now plug in the USB, then launch the GUI, which SHOULD see the Commport and then click READ and then wait a couple of secs. Hopefully you should see PID#s and the movement graphs. If yes, Time to Calibrate.

Level Tilt, Level Roll, Click Calibrate_acc and this sets a Simple calibration. Click write. Disconnect USB. Close GUI. Plug Motors In. PLug USB in, Start Motors w on/off switch, launch GUI. Now youre supposed to go to the 5 Faces advanced calibration. BorisS laid it out here; IMU is the little senor on the tilt tray http://www.multirotorforums.com/sho...-Gimbals-Info-exchange/page4&highlight=boriss

Now here is where I got jammed up. Got a couple of decent simple calibrations. PID settings were fine but Roll wasn't level. Failed a ton of advanced calibrations. Suspect this is mostly due the gimbal not being mounted and unable to keep the bloody thing consistent by hand.

It appears that the Alex board can stabilize just about everything. The PID settings from Musky are pretty darned good on the bench and I had a 550D on there!! The balancing act is harder than a servo gimbal. It's going to be LIGHT years better than any servo gimbal. I'm HOPING that once I do decent Calibration/Level that it doesn't pull a "Skyline" and reset itself at random.

So the REAL issue with these gimbals is that you REALLY REALLY need to think about exactly what you're gonna fly and how you're gonna mount it. The Musky is a big gimbal! He's almost 9 Inches wide, 6 Inches High and 6 Inches deep! And that is great for capacity - a 550D fits on the tray although the cable is going to be tough, but challenge really is down to making it fit under a heli. We'll see how that goes.
 

Jem

Member
Hi SMP
Do you think you could send me a grab of your GUI settings. Number of poles, PIDs etc.
Cheers,
jem
 

SMP

Member
Hi SMP
Do you think you could send me a grab of your GUI settings. Number of poles, PIDs etc.
Cheers,
jem

Hi Jem, just heading out to work on the Skyjib gimbal so will send screen later. Bear in mind these are Muskys defaults for a Nex and I had a 550D on there. Pitch P=9 I=0.03 D=5 Power=255
Roll P=5 I=0.02 D=2 Power=189

Roll Min Max -30/30/3
Pitch Min Max -90/90/3

Magnets - Musky had 13 default but I count 14...

Havent had a chance to play with the PIDs other than stopping the startup roll. Watch the P and D numbers. So far I lower the motor power, make a change, write, then increase motor to see effect. Heres a link to a tuning guide. http://vimeo.com/64351956
 



SMP

Member
Musky - Can you pls comment on the above? Also when performing an advanced calibration - Do you click "Calib_acc" and/or "write" after each face change? Please explain how you perform advanced calibration and in what order.
 

Musky

Member
I will replay after i make some test because until now i dont try to upgrade.

SMP. after you conect u must push "READ" wait 10 seconds and after this you push " Calib_acc" and in the same time you keep the sensor level until will start to move and after this you push" write"
 

SMP

Member
I have NOT tried to upload latest FW or GUI. Quick attempts at this one haven't panned out - Hopefully that will change now that I understand how to do advanced calibration correctly. SEE BELOW

Originally Posted by sequinminer
Oy. Starting to think nobody knows how to do an advanced calibration - So to be clear...

You start in the basic position, (board up) - Click "calib_acc", Now do you click "write" at this point? THEN move to position 1? Once you've moved the IMU to position 1 do you now click "calib_acc" again? Do you click "write" Do you click both? Neither?? Then move to Position 2 and do the same?? Position 3, 4, 5 etc and so on

Hoping someone can please explain the process. Thank you all!!!

Try this, and yes you hit calibrate and write on every position. Look at the arrows to make sure they are level.
The BASIC pos is the first one. Don't do that one again or you will erase all others.
Cheers
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post24683389
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Precision Visions

Multirotor Pilot...
Hi musky, sory to ask stupid questions but I'm not finding these answers
What is the final cost of the gimbal...
and I didn't see an answer about the T2i video out cable is that going to fit?
 

Top