Quick update.
Balancing will consume most of your life with these gimbals as when you make a change, remove the camera to get to the bolts and then test, repeat, loosen, adjust, test, remove, repeat etc. So specific to the Musky here's what we've learned.
Start with Roll, loosen bolts
but keep slight tension. Enough tension that it takes two hands and a bit of force. Otherwise you'll go scooting right past where you wanted and viola starting over. Put the whole thing in your lap and move in micro increments. Small changes have big effects.
It would be FANTASTIC if the Roll axis used the same captive screw system as the Tilt.
The Tilt is a LOT easier due to Muskys design with a captive screw! WELL DONE DAN!! Same thing,
loosen bolts but keep slight tension. Enough tension that it doesnt move by hand but WILL move when you turn the screw. Looking straight into the front of the camera make sure its well below the centerline of the Tilt motor. Basically you want the camera COG to be BELOW the motor and heavier on the bottom. Again tension on the camera bolt and then slide forward and back on the camera tray until the Cam is balanced forward and back. As its heavier on the bottom it will come to rest pointing forward and perfectly straight. It's tempting to stop here, don't!. You're almost there. NOW start using the tilt screw to raise the camera centerline to the tilt motor centerline. It's perfect when the camera can stop at any position between 90 degrees and 0 degree's level. Same process as the servo gimbals really but everythings harder to get to on these. Balance by counting the hash marks on the tray and as you get closer, how many turns on the screw, to how many half turns. Yup it matters.
Ok. Assuming everything is balanced. You have the Alex Gui shortcuts on the desktop. You have a on/off switch plugged into the board and waiting on your battery. You've DISCONNECTED the motors. Now plug in the USB, then launch the GUI, which SHOULD see the Commport and then click READ and then wait a couple of secs. Hopefully you should see PID#s and the movement graphs. If yes, Time to Calibrate.
Level Tilt, Level Roll, Click Calibrate_acc and this sets a Simple calibration. Click write. Disconnect USB. Close GUI. Plug Motors In. PLug USB in, Start Motors w on/off switch, launch GUI. Now youre supposed to go to the 5 Faces advanced calibration. BorisS laid it out here; IMU is the little senor on the tilt tray
http://www.multirotorforums.com/sho...-Gimbals-Info-exchange/page4&highlight=boriss
Now here is where I got jammed up. Got a couple of decent simple calibrations. PID settings were fine but Roll wasn't level. Failed a ton of advanced calibrations. Suspect this is mostly due the gimbal not being mounted and unable to keep the bloody thing consistent by hand.
It appears that the Alex board can stabilize just about everything. The PID settings from Musky are pretty darned good on the bench and I had a 550D on there!! The balancing act is harder than a servo gimbal. It's going to be LIGHT years better than any servo gimbal. I'm HOPING that once I do decent Calibration/Level that it doesn't pull a "Skyline" and reset itself at random.
So the REAL issue with these gimbals is that you REALLY REALLY need to think about exactly what you're gonna fly and how you're gonna mount it. The Musky is a big gimbal! He's almost 9 Inches wide, 6 Inches High and 6 Inches deep! And that is great for capacity - a 550D fits on the tray although the cable is going to be tough, but challenge really is down to making it fit under a heli. We'll see how that goes.