Best way to test motor and esc temps is to bypass the FC and connect all motors to the throttle channel. Then you get an equal amp draw across motors and esc's while strapped down.. Then you will get an accurate max amp draw at 100%
Looking at the manual for that receiver, It looks as though you need to use the one conventional servo output, and have the radio set in 10ch mode. 1-8 s-bus and ch 9 conventional output retracts.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4YvUS2jBbt5b0VKdVlTejJ4UE0/view?usp=sharing
This Thermal cam is small enough to mount on a gopro with one of the newer 3 axis encoded gimbals. Granted the resolution is not a good as the seek. http://www.flytron.com/thermal-cameras/303-dronethermal-micro-uav-thermal-camera.html
Don't use lead free solder, it's absolute garbage. Get some Kester 63/37, and a good solder station.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00068IJWC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0EJ5SNZMA83V6QDJN8R1
Caps had nothing to do with it. Max amps for those motors I can see is 62 amps. You just overheated that one, carbon fiber mounting is not a good heat sink.:)
Max Continuous current(A)180S.............................................................44A
Max Continuous...
Just received my H4 back from Peau Productions, picture is flawless with the software mod. I did the lens swap (4.4mm) myself and sent it in for the pink corner removal. They seem to be the only one's able too mod an H4.:)...
The girlfriend and the dog thing in his videos is kinda silly. And have seen a lot of issues with customer service. Getting a response from TBS has never been an issue. Really can't say enough how important it is if a problem arises, they will respond and take care of it.
Your best bet then will be the group build unless someone with apm experience chimes in.
You would be better off with naza v2 or miniX as a first FC.:)