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I definitely agree they are all toys, but I try to avoid 'toy grade' ie those which you cannot get spare parts for, so they are one crash wonders. I consider 'model grade' anything you can get spare parts for, so pretty sure Syma qualifies, certainly Hubsan spares are easy to get hold of. Re...

One thing to learn is to cut power completely when you crash, ideally you get the hang of cutting power just before you crash, this protects the ESC/motors, I flew RC heli's for many years so have the reflex to hit throttle hold switch to cut motor when I know I'm going to crash, and have had...

Pop is normally bad news ! ESC could have been damaged in crash if motor was stalled under power. Best check is to swap with another esc to isolate motor from esc.

Visited friends at a farm yesterday, it was perfect flying weather so took the P3p and some old Chinese Lanterns I have had kicking around for a few years to use up, friend had some fireworks too, so tried to capture aerial video - it was harder than I expected to chase the lantern, it climbs...

I suspect the DJI battery IC just monitors voltages, I would be surprised if it can disconnect the terminals or drop voltage as batteries don't get warm during charging or make any click noises you'd expect from a relay. The DJI and non-DJI chargers I have which work normally all measure 17.5v...

SkyRC have come back with this explanation, which doesn't make sense to me - why would their be a voltage drop on DC-converter, surely they would drive to target voltage (18.8v) just at reduced current, which would still overcharge LiHV 4S lipo past 17.4v ? "charging system adopts Buck...

That's a great idea, you just need to try your monitor with one of their camera/transmitters and vice versa, once you have a known good setup its much easier to work out what's going on, it could just be a bad connection/wire. I checked and your camera is 5v so is vtx, as that was my first...

You just need to find someone else with a known good Camera/VTX/monitor to compare with. I had problems with my first FPV setup, turned out my goggles had an intermittent fault, but with only one set I was baffled, I ended up buying a second set of goggles to troubleshoot and found the problem...

I bought this very expensive 4 way charger as a Christmas present to myself, it appeared to be a clone of the Smart PowerCharge 4 way charger which is even more expensive and hard to get in the UK, so a slightly less expensive version which automatically charges/discharges to storage voltage...

I'm more impressed with the p4pro and inspire2 than mavic which everyone seems to be going nuts for. The sensor jump and 5 sensor collision avoidance on p4pro are big steps up. Inspire2 fpv camera, collision avoidance and data rates are big advances. Mavic i think would be superb at lower...

You can update the P1 Naza V2 firmware, but I am generally not a fan of firmware updates unless there is a good reason for them. Looks like 4.06 is latest version from July 2015, not sure which I have, I bought the P1 in Nov 13 I do remember doing an update but not sure if it was to 4.02 or later.

As long as you can get into compass calibration that looks better than my version, there isn't really any other reason to use manual mode with Naza ! The one I setup was the Naza V2 in a Phantom 1, maybe there is a slight difference in firmware on that version ? I couldn't get into compass...

This is normal/by design, I guess in case you dropped your transmitter or accidentally switched RTH off, the flight mode toggle is to show you are sure you want to take back control. I've setup a Naza V2 on DX6i for someone and only issue I had was compass calibration, as you have to toggle...

Are you sure you have failsafe set correctly - you need to have flight mode/U set in the failsafe region on Naza lite configurator - on the bench with props removed if you switch off transmitter you should get fast flashing yellow/orange LED to show failsafe/RTH is set correctly, same as if you...

Any motor/prop combination drawing up to about 24Amps is fine, you want to stick to 80% of capacity for motors/escs/lipos so you are not pushing your luck. For a Hex 30A ESCs should be enough for a pretty big multirotor, as you would have to draw 144Amps to start hitting that limit (24Amps x 6...

Just wondering if anyone in the US (or anywhere else) has seen Gopro Karma for sale to public, as I know release scheduled 23rd October has slipped to sometime in November, and apparently European release date has been put off so it will initially be US only launch - but not seen anything...

Electrically they would be fine, I don't know how well the hex will fly with the extra ~600g weight though, but you can certainly try it. If you are using Naza FC its important to remember your left stick is not a true throttle, its a 'climb demand' control which the Naza then controls the ESC...

As long as the voltages are close between packs when you connect them - ie within .1v or so (so you don't get a big spark/dump of voltage from one battery into the other) then you can mix C and mah much like when parallel charging, but obviously its ideal to run as close as possible to the same...

People will use two batteries for more flight time (just not double/triple flight time as you add batteries, as the weight goes up), the exact flight time increase depends on many variables, but for a sensible example (say a F450 on 3S 2200) running two batteries would give 50% more flight time...

The only advantage of the E310 is they are a known good setup, but so are your 920kv motors, as they were the predecessor of the E310 on DJI props. Dual batteries will give more capacity but higher weight, so you won't get double the flight time with double the mah as the extra weight will take...