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I would suggest a different approach: First start out with a cheap quad kit, don't even try putting a camera underneath this - that just adds more complexity. That will give you experience. Then once you have skills flying and building then move up to something better - if you are thinking...

I programmed mine separately and I think that is how the WK-M manual suggests it needs to be done as well. However, not sure how that works with opto version.

olof, good insight - that makes sense. Razzil, I will check that link out Thanks for the feedback.

http://www.western-robotics.com/spectrum-LiPo_hp.html http://www.snhobbies.com/product_info.php?products_id=4387&osCsid=3f414dc1e8a2a20ed03c89783dbb8991 These work really well and I put the buzzer on them as well but the led lights are so bright you can them quite well - until the ship gets...

Dah, after thinking about it, it only makes sense that it has to be in GPS mode otherwise it doesn't know where Home is - at least that is what I would assume.

I just got my WK-M ship in the air and am trying to get it fine tuned - a bit tough when it is -20 C out. However my question is this: In order for failsafe Go Home to work (for Come Home to work when the transmitter loses connection), does GPS have to be set when you bind? I guess the...

Right, We actually have 4 redundant flight battery checks. Of course the WK-m flight controller, we also have a battery voltage monitor onboard that flashes led lights constantly - it changes colour from blue to green to yellow to white with audible alarm at the end (it works very well), and...

A full charge is 4.2 V per cell (16.8 V for 4s). Anywhere under 3.0 V per cell and your battery is dead (4s 12V), so you don't want to come close to bottoming out the lipo. Personally I wouldn't go below 3.4V, I would make the second and final safe (3.4*4 = 13.6 V). I would set the first...

When the ESCs arrive read the section of that manual on programming. Based on my memory (it has been awhile) - start out with TX throttle in high position which then starts the programming of the ESC you also setup a motor and ESC and a battery altogether. You will hear different sequence of...

Early on the WK-M wasn't programmed to deal with the loss of a motor and there were some horror stories - apparently now that has been rectified, this is really reassuring to see evidence of that.

Okay here is how I programmed my Maytech, see the programming card in the image below - I also had to manually program in the 16Khz because that is not an option from the card (see the manual). I didn't bother with the flashy thingy because it just seemed too fidly for my liking and it was...

I have had a motor quit mid flight with my Hoverfly octo and honestly, I couldn't even tell anything had happened. I haven't had that happen with my ocoto WK-M but hope it would be as stable.

I just set this up with a DX 10t as master and a DX 6i as the slave (with a mono audio cable 3.5). I too can set the channels that I want to pass off to the 6i. If I move one the sticks that was passed off I get a warning sound and control reverts to the master TX. Since it is setup on a...

I have been following Droider since his early quad days (I think we both started out with Guai 330X if my memory serves me) and he was always a couple of steps ahead of me - he has seen plenty of set backs so I am sure he will be back but the moment of trial can be frustrating and discouraging...

It has been a while since I posted anything here. I have been using the 10t with the basic settings necessary to fly my ocotos (Hoverfly Pro and DJI WK-M) over the past 6 months. I love it - the ergonomic layout and the tray fit is so much more comfortable than my DX 6i I also think the...

I would suggest ordering a spare just to have on hand as a ready replacement or for testing. Whenever I buy motors or ESCs that is what I do. It has come in handy already. I will have to look at my programming card to see how it is setup - I will try and remember to post that. Mine were...

When I tried to take off mine tipped to one side and dug into the dirt each time but once I gave it more throttle on take off and got into the air it stabilized. If you are sure everything else is good, then I would recommend this.

Maytech is an option. http://www.mikrokopter.us/shop/dji/dji-frame-motors-arfs/mt40a-mt40a-opto-v1 I am currently running the 30A version of these but would have gone with these had they been available at the time, those came out after.

I am using a DX 10t - and just got my WK-M working. Once I have fine tuned things I will post my settings. I believe you can import the setup from a 10t directly into the DX18. Let me know if you want that. I was planning on starting a thread once I get everything worked out. Do you intend...

Hmmm... what is the best way to test ESCs? Yes you can hook those up to a motor and test each one but I had a recent problem and the motors were firing up fine but - one of the ESCs would act up and go off the deep end once the octo was in the air (causing no end of problems trouble shooting)...