Simon 12a esc - 3 stutter, 1 works!??

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cliofreak

Member
Hi guys. So I lost my TBS disco as RTH didn't work and fpv signal dropped. I presume battery fell out. Nightmare.

Anyway, been building a 250 racer instead.

I have Simon Series 12a ESCs with Emax motors 1804 2480KV and only one works. 3 of them stutter the motors and when finally spin up, don't spin as fast fast the one that works. Ive tried everything I can think of. Calibration, re-wireing entire quad, bought 3 new ESCs, tried without NAZE32, direct to transmitter and battery, re-calibrated, programmed them with radio beeps etc. What the hell is going on!!

One is perfect, 3 stutter. Im lost here. Please help if you can!
 


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cliofreak

Member
LOL, well I think I may have figured it out! The motor wires are enamelled copper and when you buy then they have tinned ends, however when you cut them you're left with a joint that doesn't like to solder. There is a chance that the one that works perfectly has a good ESC-Motor joint and the others are hampered by a bad enamelled covered wire with solder just sitting onto of the enamel. Sound like a possibility. Seriously, every other option has been tested!
 

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tstrike

pendejo grande
That was the exact problem I had on my 250, resoldered and they all spun up fine. I thought my esc's were junk since they were used when I got them and I'd used them on another quad.
 

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cliofreak

Member
tstrike said:
That was the exact problem I had on my 250, resoldered and they all spun up fine. I thought my esc's were junk since they were used when I got them and I'd used them on another quad.
Click to expand...
Excellent. I have hope for it yet. How did you get he enamel off?
 

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tstrike

pendejo grande
I just had poor solder joints. Not sure why there'd be enamel, maybe take a razor and see if it'll scrape off but make sure you don't scrape off the solder pad, tin your wires, tin the pad, solder together and hope for the best!
 

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cliofreak

Member
Im pulling my hair out. Never had such difficulty with a build in my life. Ive stripped the enamel from the motor wires, resoldered to esc and removed NAZE from equation. Even removed the PDBoard and hooked up directly to 3 different batteries. Exactly the same. EXACTLY THE SAME. Crazy what Im doing here. Tried different tX RX too. Cant be the ESC surley!? 7 bad escs? Not likely. Do they need flashed or something? These are the Escs - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EMax-Simo...5&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=171427766271&rt=nc
 

Bartman

Bartman

Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
this confuses the hell out of me, everybody and I mean EVERYBODY raves about SimonK this and SimonK that but I had the same exact problem with four SimonK iFlight ESC's.

did you try using a regular RC receiver's throttle output to run each motor instead of going through the flight controller?
did you try increasing min throttle so that the motors will spin more smoothly when they initially spool up?
are you using the correct refresh/update rate for the ESC's?

i switched to HobbyKing Blue 12A ESC's and they worked better but not by much...in fact, they spool up perfectly with the CC3D board when I go through the GCS using the motor test function and they spool up perfectly with an RC receiver but they stutter and spit when I am attempting to fly. They eventually work and the heli is flying (250 racer with 1806-2300kv motors) but at low power settings it's iffy.
 

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cliofreak

Member
Bartman said:
this confuses the hell out of me, everybody and I mean EVERYBODY raves about SimonK this and SimonK that but I had the same exact problem with four SimonK iFlight ESC's.

did you try using a regular RC receiver's throttle output to run each motor instead of going through the flight controller?
did you try increasing min throttle so that the motors will spin more smoothly when they initially spool up?
are you using the correct refresh/update rate for the ESC's?

i switched to HobbyKing Blue 12A ESC's and they worked better but not by much...in fact, they spool up perfectly with the CC3D board when I go through the GCS using the motor test function and they spool up perfectly with an RC receiver but they stutter and spit when I am attempting to fly. They eventually work and the heli is flying (250 racer with 1806-2300kv motors) but at low power settings it's iffy.
Click to expand...

Yeah, Ive connected directly to throttle on TX...same prob. Ive tried calibrating every option I can think of re the escs. I can't flash or update because I believe I need two extra pieces of hardware to get the firmware on the esc.
 



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cliofreak

Member
3 of them start to stall at 70% (after a while getting going) then the power drops and intermittetly cuts out on the way down. Only with 3 of them. One is strong all the way up and down.
 

Bartman

Bartman

Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
if they weren't SimonK I'd say check your low voltage settings, it sounds like three are going into soft shut-down mode....are you absolutely sure you're using a fully charged battery? the 1300 packs don't last long on a 250 racer so if you're using one for testing it's easy to run it down.....i know because i've already fried one battery by overdraining it during bench testing (I say "testing" but I mean struggling while pulling out large clumps of hair)
 

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cliofreak

Member
Bartman said:
if they weren't SimonK I'd say check your low voltage settings, it sounds like three are going into soft shut-down mode....are you absolutely sure you're using a fully charged battery? the 1300 packs don't last long on a 250 racer so if you're using one for testing it's easy to run it down.....i know because i've already fried one battery by overdraining it during bench testing (I say "testing" but I mean struggling while pulling out large clumps of hair)
Click to expand...
Haha, yes Im flicking between batteries and using a 2200 to check. I know I programmed them all via the transmitter and menu 6 I chose option 4 so the low voltage was turned off.
 



C

cliofreak

Member
Still having my doubts about the enamel coated wires after I cut them shorter. Saying that, I cut the one that works just to see if that stopped it working. Used the same technique to de-enamel as the others (heated aspirin outside followed by flux) and it still worked like before. the others were still jittery as before even after the same enamel aspirin trick.
 

Bartman

Bartman

Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
i've never heard of enamel coated wires in motors, in headphone wires and other really small gauge stuff but not in motors. are you sure about that?
 

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cliofreak

Member
Yeah, the windings are enamel coated and some motors extend the winding into the there wires. Max does this so when you cut the soldered tip off to shorten them, you're left with the enamel problem to deal with.
 

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tstrike

pendejo grande
Strange, if there is enamel it seems it would get burnt off with the solder iron, they're dinky wires. I suck at trying to understand simon K problems. I really hoped it was just bad solder points.
 

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