Has anybody tried this - any good?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._1mtr_RED.html
Thanks:tennis:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._1mtr_RED.html
Thanks:tennis:
Silicone Wire
- Thread starter baja-king
- Start date
R_Lefebvre
Arducopter Developer
What exactly do you want to know? It's exactly what it says it is. Seems fine to me.
Bartman
Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
i've been using turnigy silicone wire for the last couple of years and it's all seemed fine to me. i didn't analyze it in a lab but it's been consistent and pretty much as advertised in all the batches I've purchased.
i won't be using turnigy wire in my shop builds but it's been fine for everything else so far.
i won't be using turnigy wire in my shop builds but it's been fine for everything else so far.
So what would you consider better for your shop builds... thanks
gtranquilla
RadioActive
I haven't tried Turnigy silicone wire specifically to my knowledge so my comments pertain to silicone insulated wire in general which I frequently use. IMHO - Silicone is super flexible over a much more extreme temperature range, will not melt when soldering and tends to be available sometimes with a higher copper strand count for the same wires gauges (further increasing flexibility and resistance to breaking from frequent bending). In short lengths the cost difference as compared to rubber or plastic insulated wire is insignificant. It also is less prone to oxidation and damage from sunlight (UV light).
R_Lefebvre
Arducopter Developer
I'm curious to know what exactly you are looking for. I work in a wire factory. No, we don't make anything like this product. But I'm just wondering what the market is looking for. 99.99% oxygen free?
R_Lefebvre
Arducopter Developer
I tend to be result-oriented. I'd like to know what problems you want to solve, that the Turnigy isn't doing for you? Other than the fact that they say Turnigy on them. 
Maybe I should buy a reel of the stuff, wipe off the print with MEK and reprint it with another name and sell it for 5x as much. That I could do quite easily.
BTW, I'm 99.99% sure that Oxygen-free wire is bunk.
We used to make high end speaker wire back in the day. The only difference between the high end and low end stuff was the high end stuff used expensive shiny insulation with sparkles in it.
(I'm not actually that much involved in the engineering of the wire, I design/build the machinery).
Maybe I should buy a reel of the stuff, wipe off the print with MEK and reprint it with another name and sell it for 5x as much. That I could do quite easily.BTW, I'm 99.99% sure that Oxygen-free wire is bunk.
We used to make high end speaker wire back in the day. The only difference between the high end and low end stuff was the high end stuff used expensive shiny insulation with sparkles in it.
(I'm not actually that much involved in the engineering of the wire, I design/build the machinery).
PeterLester
Member
You are correct re: the 99.99% oxygen free copper wires sold to audiophiles is a waste of money.
Please see diagram or figure 3 in the attached article.... http://www.copper.org/publications/newsletters/innovations/1997/12/wiremetallurgy.html
While oxygen can be added to help gas off any remaining sulphur and remove hydrogen molecules from the copper, it will only benefit conductivity up to a critical point, beyond that point the conductivity drops off rapidly. Maleability is also effected such that beyond or below a critical O2 level the wires will more easily break.
While the priority for speaker wire is to minimize wire resistance, that is not an issue for very short runs of power cable where it is more critical for the wire not to break after repeated bending especially at lower temperatures.:tennis:
To gain perspective of percentage versus ppm, i.e., parts per million, simply remember that 10,000 ppm = 1%. So 99.99% purity means that the copper has 0.01% oxygen which is equivalent to 100 ppm. For Monster cables and others to reference 99.99% oxygen free copper is pointless.... the percentage scale is misleading when the more precise ppm scale should be applied.
Please see diagram or figure 3 in the attached article.... http://www.copper.org/publications/newsletters/innovations/1997/12/wiremetallurgy.html
While oxygen can be added to help gas off any remaining sulphur and remove hydrogen molecules from the copper, it will only benefit conductivity up to a critical point, beyond that point the conductivity drops off rapidly. Maleability is also effected such that beyond or below a critical O2 level the wires will more easily break.
While the priority for speaker wire is to minimize wire resistance, that is not an issue for very short runs of power cable where it is more critical for the wire not to break after repeated bending especially at lower temperatures.:tennis:
To gain perspective of percentage versus ppm, i.e., parts per million, simply remember that 10,000 ppm = 1%. So 99.99% purity means that the copper has 0.01% oxygen which is equivalent to 100 ppm. For Monster cables and others to reference 99.99% oxygen free copper is pointless.... the percentage scale is misleading when the more precise ppm scale should be applied.
I tend to be result-oriented. I'd like to know what problems you want to solve, that the Turnigy isn't doing for you? Other than the fact that they say Turnigy on them.
BTW, I'm 99.99% sure that Oxygen-free wire is bunk.
We used to make high end speaker wire back in the day. The only difference between the high end and low end stuff was the high end stuff used expensive shiny insulation with sparkles in it.
(I'm not actually that much involved in the engineering of the wire, I design/build the machinery).
I obsessed with battery wire a few weeks ago. The LiPo's I got are dimensionally designed for the 550 and are physically too big to use with my 450 build. Those Lipo's came with female EC5 connectors already attached to 10 gauge wires. I decided to put those LiPo's away to save for a future 550 build. Nevertheless I bought and received short lengths of 10 gauge wire. Those wires will also be put up on the back shelf.
I searched US hobbyshops. I didn't want to order wire from China. I really didn't. In the end I received all the battery wire I need for my build. From US sources.
Batteries better suited to my 450 will be here soon. I decided on XT60 connectors. I already have short lengths of 12 gauge wire. The wire was actually trouble to track down. It's sold by the foot and many hobby parts dealers don't have time to cut lengths off their bulk reels and package them for sale. Good silicone insulated wire has a high strand count and is very flexible. Home Depot sure didn't have it. Lol. Got my helping hand soldering aid and learned to protect the soft silicone insulation covering from those strong alligator clips.
Never heard of oxygen free wire and it seems like Munsters dancing on the top of a pinhead. If they'll fit under your foot, step on them.
ps:
I've always been too chatty. I haven't even tested my first build. Nevertheless the site indicates a lot of posts from me. I blame that on my enthusiasm. I'll shut up and stay quiet. One time I did answer a question from a newer noobie I was able to help. I hope I can help again.
I searched US hobbyshops. I didn't want to order wire from China. I really didn't. In the end I received all the battery wire I need for my build. From US sources.
Batteries better suited to my 450 will be here soon. I decided on XT60 connectors. I already have short lengths of 12 gauge wire. The wire was actually trouble to track down. It's sold by the foot and many hobby parts dealers don't have time to cut lengths off their bulk reels and package them for sale. Good silicone insulated wire has a high strand count and is very flexible. Home Depot sure didn't have it. Lol. Got my helping hand soldering aid and learned to protect the soft silicone insulation covering from those strong alligator clips.
Never heard of oxygen free wire and it seems like Munsters dancing on the top of a pinhead. If they'll fit under your foot, step on them.
ps:
I've always been too chatty. I haven't even tested my first build. Nevertheless the site indicates a lot of posts from me. I blame that on my enthusiasm. I'll shut up and stay quiet. One time I did answer a question from a newer noobie I was able to help. I hope I can help again.
Last edited by a moderator:
Bartman
Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
Deans makes a high quality wire in the US but it's 12ga only. I'm going to try to match their quality with a US manufacturer in the 12 to 22AWG range. high strand counts should make the wire very flexible and well suited for snaking and looping through multi-rotor frames.
Please try to find 10 gauge wire. The largest 4s LipPo's come with 10 gauge wire nowadays.
Can I solder that large low resistance wire to the power distribrution board and the BEC and be without a care? (Dji 450)
Can I connect Naza BEC with a 10 gauge power input coming in?
Why should the powerful LiPo need a 10 gauge wire?
I'm on the side of safety.
You can see how ignorant I still am.
Rob
Can I solder that large low resistance wire to the power distribrution board and the BEC and be without a care? (Dji 450)
Can I connect Naza BEC with a 10 gauge power input coming in?
Why should the powerful LiPo need a 10 gauge wire?
I'm on the side of safety.
You can see how ignorant I still am.
Rob
Last edited by a moderator:
Bartman
Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
size of the 4 cell lipo doesn't matter as much as C rating. if it's a high C rating for a high draw system then size of the wire would matter. if it's a high mah with a low (20 to 30 for example) C rating then the wire gauge wouldn't necessarily have to be bigger if the small ones have 12 ga.
i hear you though and will inquire about 10ga as well.
Noskipallwd
Member
I make my own tube based audio gear. Wire choice tends to be highly subjective, heated and based on little science in that hobby. Over the years I've experimented with numerous wire types, and found few differences between them. The boutique(hi-end) wire is purely snake oil; golden ratio, geometric stranding, oxygen free copper, all good for putting your wallet on a diet. Personally I have settled on using silver plated, mil-spec wire, basically what they use for avionics. It has a high strand count, nice thick teflon insulation, and a decent price if buying in bulk. I use solid core for some applications but would never use it in a RC aircraft prone to vibration.
Cheers,
Shawn
Cheers,
Shawn
PeterLester
Member
Good information...... I believe you mean you would never use solid core for MRs but would use high strand count silver plated military spec copper wire for MRs since this is designed for avionics where vibration can still occur.
Noskipallwd
Member
Exactly, solid core retains it's shape which is an advantage when p2p wiring a busy layout. Also, there is less chance for a stray strand to cause a short. It breaks easier though, and is easy to nick when stripping. Not good for MRs or any aircraft.
Cheers,
Shawn