Quad spinning and not getting Air. Video Link inside.
- Thread starter Drewvian
- Start date
Well I went out to try and fly my quad just now and the sad thing is I can not seem to get any air on attitude mode. while in Manual Mode, I can get one side off the ground. Sometimes, I can get all 4 motors off, but it quickly comes back down. I am thinking either it is ESC programming that I need to do or bigger props. Also, could it be that my motors are just not strong enough and that I need higher rated KV motors? Here is a video of what I am talking about with the manual and Attitude mode having different motor speeds.
Also, I had a friend hold the quad and try having him gently throw it into the air and the quad comes back down to earth. It has a slow descent back down to earth. It looks like it wants to take off, but it is unable to. I will post video of that if you guys want. Again, thank you all for this help.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw-cU341Jz0&feature=youtu.be
Also, I had a friend hold the quad and try having him gently throw it into the air and the quad comes back down to earth. It has a slow descent back down to earth. It looks like it wants to take off, but it is unable to. I will post video of that if you guys want. Again, thank you all for this help.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw-cU341Jz0&feature=youtu.be
ProPilotWannaBe
Member
Watched your video… For manual mode to have more power is normal. Manual mode is direct drive to the motors. However, attitude mode is centered around 50% to equal hold altitude.
As for the left right flopping, There is definitely a motor imbalance it previously showed itself as a rotational problem, But now it's all on one side. Did you do something motor or ESC swapping?
As for the left right flopping, There is definitely a motor imbalance it previously showed itself as a rotational problem, But now it's all on one side. Did you do something motor or ESC swapping?
I haven't swapped any ESC or motors, but it was suggested for me to get a ESC programmer to make sure my ESC are calibrated the correct way. I don't know if you read through my whole post, but would you like to know my whole setup? If so, let me know. Chances are I messed something up in my planning.
ProPilotWannaBe
Member
I've been following the thread since the beginning; so I'm quite sure I understand your setup. I totally agree that you need to program your ESCs and ensure they setup properly. The thing that caught my attention was it stopped spinning, and started flipping. I was just trying to figure out what changed.
Hopefully the whole thing boils down to the ESCs. Let us know how the programming goes.
Hopefully the whole thing boils down to the ESCs. Let us know how the programming goes.
I'm going to order a ESC programmer tomorrow. Does anyone have any suggestions on what that I should us with Turnigy Plush ESC or does it not matter? Anyway, I would like to take suggestions from you guys. Since I do not know really what I am doing. Thank you again for all the help with this thread and getting me up and flying.
OneStopRC
Dirty Little Hucker
Try this link.
http://vimeo.com/m/38798014
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http://vimeo.com/m/38798014
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OneStopRC
Dirty Little Hucker
Question for the rest of the guys in here.... with programmable esc, don't you remove one of the wires as the naza don't like it? Am I right or can someone clarify that..
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OneStopRC
Dirty Little Hucker
Not really sure if they are all the same or not, never used one as of yet. That guy was useing a cheap $10 programmer from what he said.
I would probably go brand specific and get a turnigy programmer, but I am sure one of the guys on here will chime in and give you some ideas on that.
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I would probably go brand specific and get a turnigy programmer, but I am sure one of the guys on here will chime in and give you some ideas on that.
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I went the programming card route for some exceed rc 40 ampers. When I plugged in the esc's, they were all pretty much where they needed to be and only thing I changed was the ring tone, but I changed it back to stock later so the card was kind of a bust. You can program esc's without a card using the tone method described on most esc manufacturer's website. The important thing is Tx throttle calibration, letting your esc know the high and low of your Tx's throttle.
OneStopRC
Dirty Little Hucker
Do these escs require the red wire removal tstrike? I certainly think he needs to calibrate the travel on the escs for throttle...
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Hopefully, I will be able to do this today at work. As for the programming card I think I will order it from Hobbyking and wait the darn 2 weeks for it to get here =(. deanot, I did have to remove the red wire because of the integrated BEC on my ESC. I guess I will have to plug back in so I can calibrate them to my throttle and then take them back out again. Hopefully I will have time today at work to do this.
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I'm trying to calibrate my ESC here at work, but I've run into a problem to where my ESC constantly keeps beeping. I'm trying to find out why it is doing this, but from what I've found online is that people are saying I need to trim my settings. Could someone explain what trimming is to me please? Thank you
I do not have my ESC connected to my Naza. It goes from my ESC into channel 3, which I assume is Throttle since I plug in my channel 3 into Throttle on the Naza. Also, I have a separate power board that I am running my ESC through. The reason why I am not using the normal one is because I solder the VEC onto that board and when using the Naza you have to disconnect the red wire/ BEC from the ESC. I hope that makes sense. If not, let me know.
That makes sense. What kind of beeping are you hearing, like a steady beep....beep....beep, or faster. You're turning on your Tx and moving the throttle stick to the top, then power the esc, wait for the cell count beeps, then you should get one loan beep, at that point move throttle stick all the way down and wait for the beep, done.