Newb to the hobby and need advice! :D

OK connected the NAZA M to the DJI f550 kit I had. WOW what a difference!! so much easier to fly its actually fun now LOL. So much less discouraged about building my MR now. thinking I should have gone smaller tho since it seems my main interest will be fpv and aerial vidoegraphy
 

BTW has anyone see extenders for the landing gear on the turnigy talon. I saw them one day when I was starting out but cant for the life of me find them again Thanks!
 

Glad the NAZA did it for ya! GPS mode sure makes flying fun and easy, doesn't it!
As for the landing gear extenders, we'll have to see if someone else can reply...
 

OK had a thought. I was originally thinking of mounting my esc inside the center piece on my turnigy talon MR, to keep the look clean, but was curious if they need serious air flow to keep cool and if that's why they are always mounted on the arms of MR's ?
 

If you read the DJI documentation it states that the PMUs need to be mounted to allow for good air circulation. These contain voltage regulators and have short leads so they have to be in the MR hub. Motors, ESCs and batteries can also get warm or hot. If the ESCs and motors are located together the props can cool both at the same time. IMHO - Having ESCs, PMUs and batteries in the hub concentrates heat issues which is not such a good idea unless you are flying in very cold conditions. The PMU also has an ambient temperature sensor that needs to see ambient air temperature.
 

OK I want to eventually go the route of UHF for my rx and tx. but I need a good remote control. however I see a 9ch can go from $50-800... So whats the real difference. would any decent 2.4ghz one be ok as long as it can connect to my uhf tx?
 

ok im having trouble picking out parts again. I want to run 433mhz tx and rx for controlling the MR and go 900 or 2.4ghz for the FPV. but I read that many cameras will malfunction in presence of 433 mhz. I was fine using a cheaper camera for fpv and having a second one onboard to record HD video. Can anyone suggest to me some products that are known to work well together?
 

Eddie, I won't be able to help with the frequency compatability since I don't use UHF for that. What I might suggest you reconsider is the need for two camera which then requires to video downlinks. It seems like non-beneficial added weight, but then again that's just me. Unless you have a 3-axis gimbal and a second operator, one camera should suffice for both recording and seeing where you are flying.
 


I have not tried 4xx Mhz spectrum to date but may I suggest you also consider potential amateur radio licensing constraints and or ensure you are HAM radio licensed if you need to operate in the free and clear licensed radio spectrum(s). Now if you can get the frequencies of choice in FHSS.... so much the better (no license required and no RFI with others on the same channel(s). My system utilizes a quality 2.4Ghz RC system, HeroGoPro3 Black directly connected to a DJI 5.8Ghz FPV video downlink and I also have a 900Mhz FHSS 1 watt GCS which I might add when I have the time..... apparently these will not conflict if properly setup.....but there are other FPV freq options that will work but not with 900Mhz GCS datalink onboard.....
Hope this helps.




ok im having trouble picking out parts again. I want to run 433mhz tx and rx for controlling the MR and go 900 or 2.4ghz for the FPV. but I read that many cameras will malfunction in presence of 433 mhz. I was fine using a cheaper camera for fpv and having a second one onboard to record HD video. Can anyone suggest to me some products that are known to work well together?
 

So then why not make it one and the same? If you aren't controlling the HD camera, why not make it your FPV and recording camera? Again, you can built it how it suits your needs, but I guess I'm not seeing the benefit.
Hope someone can help you with the transmission frequencies issue.
 

How would I record from a camera that doesn't have a way to record onboard? Do I have to record the FPV signal on the ground? I don't think I can get as nice of a picture that way.. right?
 

I want to put a single or maybe 2 bright white led on the front of one of my multirotors. and then want lights on the bottom of one of my other MR'S Is there a switch I can put on board that can connect to one of my receiver channels to turn them on and off remotely?
 


How would I record from a camera that doesn't have a way to record onboard? Do I have to record the FPV signal on the ground? I don't think I can get as nice of a picture that way.. right?
You will want a camera you can record on so that you get the best quality. Something like a GoPro is a great solution for both great quality recording and FPV signal. The reason you don't want to record from the ground is because quality will significantly be lower, especially since basically all transmitters are Standard Definition and you'll want to be recording in HD or higher (like what you get with the GoPro).

I want to put a single or maybe 2 bright white led on the front of one of my multirotors. and then want lights on the bottom of one of my other MR'S Is there a switch I can put on board that can connect to one of my receiver channels to turn them on and off remotely?
There are single LED solutions out there, but by and large you will see almost all operators go with an LED strip for great improved visibility at all times (including daytime) even when the aircraft is out 100 meters. I personally run my LEDs all the time, including daytime, and really helps orientation. I do white in front and red in the rear and I know a lot of operators that do that, but I do know a few that reverse that, and each having their rationale for that choice. It'll be your personal preference.
White LED strip: http://www.rc-drones.com/white-orientation-LED.php
Red LED strip: http://www.rc-drones.com/red-orientation-LED.php
Control switch: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8833__Turnigy_Receiver_Controlled_Switch_.html (though I don't use one)

O and maybe something that can control them to strobe or even blink in a pattern?
I would search HobbyKing.com for that. Here's a quick one I turned up, but reading it I'm not too sure it's what you wanting:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6811__Lumifly_Lighting_system_FAA_Configurable.html
 

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I should add... the benefit of the strip is that you can also tell from the light strip if the aircraft is flying away ('V' shaped lights) or coming towards you (inverted 'V').
 

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Ya ill definitely need to know orientation for night flying.. ALSO does anyone know if the new 3rd gen Fatshark Dominator goggles work with the TBS lawmate 2ghz receivers like the 2nd gen did?
 

Ok so I finally got this hexcopter built. 6x 690kv turnigy 22 pole motors with 30 amp opto esc's and a carbon fiber turnigy talon frame with 14 blades and a Naza controller. However one serious problem at start up speed it want to take off like a rocket!!! I set the startup speed under the naza software to its lowest and programmed the escs with the card to start at the low setting also? this thing is essentially useless at this point. anyway to fix this? smaller props maybe? I did have all the escs plugged into the power when I was programming but only connected one to the card at a time.. not sure if that would have mattered...
 

gtranquilla

RadioActive
I had similar issues with one of my NAZA systems and it was caused by vibration..... After careful balancing of motors and props..... seemed to have almost same issues..... then I bought Kyosho Zeal tape and used it to isolate the NAZA controller from the MR airframe..... eliminating all remaining vibes...... problem 100% solved. But technically the right approach is to get rid of the vibes at source. Also isolated the Radio receiver because they can be affected as well.
Ok so I finally got this hexcopter built. 6x 690kv turnigy 22 pole motors with 30 amp opto esc's and a carbon fiber turnigy talon frame with 14 blades and a Naza controller. However one serious problem at start up speed it want to take off like a rocket!!! I set the startup speed under the naza software to its lowest and programmed the escs with the card to start at the low setting also? this thing is essentially useless at this point. anyway to fix this? smaller props maybe? I did have all the escs plugged into the power when I was programming but only connected one to the card at a time.. not sure if that would have mattered...
 

Ugh can already tell you my biggest problem with this hobby is going to be these shipping times! Why does it take so long for a package to leave these countries! LOL goin crazy
 

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