Newb to the hobby and need advice! :D


gtranquilla

gtranquilla

RadioActive
Is the seller from North America or from Asia? The reason I ask is that DJI Hobbies/Innovations just released a brand new product called the NAZA Lite (see their web site)...... which is a lower cost item relative to the previous version 1 NAZA.....
(neither to be confused with the new NAZA version 2).

So you should question the seller to get clarification on this critical issue.
 


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gpforet

Member
While the batteries may be capable of charging at 8C, I think most recommend a slower charge rate to lengthen battery life. I typically charge at 2C and carry 3 sets of batteries for flight. You are correct that 8C on a 5000mah battery would be 40 amps. charging 2 at the same time at 8C would require a dual charger and 80 amps of current. One round of charging from your car battery and someone will have to give you a jump to get get home. You'd need a $500 110v-12v power supply to run the charge if you wanted to plug it in.

I use this as my charger:

http://helidirect.com/cellpro-10xp-15a-multi-chemistry-charger-p-24520.hdx

and this as my power supply for wall charging:

http://helidirect.com/effuel-30a-12-18v-switching-power-supply-p-29897.hdx
 

gtranquilla

gtranquilla

RadioActive
Quality battery chargers will always come without a 12VDC input source. There are many surplus network server power supplies kicking around that are dirt cheap and provide very high quality DC power for your charger.
I picked up two of these for only $50 plus shipping from a US surplus recycler. Dell PowerEdge NPS700AB. One is spare and may be used later to double the input volts to my charger from 12 to 24 VDC if/when the need arises.



eddie200112 said:
Can anyone recommend a charger for these batteries im going to be using 2 of these batteries. I see it says charging rate of 8C for the batteries, but not sure if that mean it need 8Amps or 8x5=40Amps. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...0mah_4S_65_130C_Lipo_Pack_USA_Warehouse_.html
Click to expand...
 

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eddie200112

Member
OK thanks for all the advice so far everyone! currently I have Frame: Turnigy hexacopter v1 1125mm motor to motor.(longer booms) ESC: 6x multistar 30A OPTO Motor: 6x turnigy multistar 690kV 22pole motors Controller: NAZA-M v1 with GPS Battery: 2x turnigy nanotech 5000mah 65-130C. I should Start getting most of this in the mail soon to start working. In the end ive decided I want to be able to do long distance fpv and record video onboard, any recommended set ups that are compatible with what I have. Also anything I need to oreder to hook everything to each other that I wouldn't yet know about I want to be able to disassble easily and would like to avoid soldering so I can switch some equipment over to other craft someday, preferably a fixed wing long distance fpv setup. what kind of tx/rx do I need power etc, ground station(and what is it lol), and fpv goggles. also is 5.8Ghz>2.4Ghz>900MHz for distance and reliability?
 

gtranquilla

gtranquilla

RadioActive
IMHO - I think the 65C rated batteries are overkill...... and will only gain you a minute or two over a 35C rated battery....... at least according to my repetitive ecalc calculations comparing the two. Don't buy GCS - Ground station for at least a year IMHO. GCS is ideal for flying 10 kilometers and back if your batteries can handle the range and also GCS is designed for virtual Google Earth flying. Tacking on video downlink to all that could be very overwhelming to say the least. Also watch out that all the radio frequencies onboard don't conflict. Video downlink is not FHSS. 5.8Ghz offers wider bandwidth for higher quality video but lacks penetration versus the lower frequencies. While line of sight @ 5.8 Ghz should work out for LOS..... don't forget that high humidity affects signal penetration as do trees, building etc. Did you mention spare props?
 

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eddie200112

Member
OK couple more things ive stumbled across during the build. Ive fired up the motors and the prop cones keep flying off.. Do you guys use thread lock/thread seal on yours to keep them on. (I was only tightening them by hand btw.)
 

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eddie200112

Member
ALSO still cant figure out the battery charger and power supply. do I need a strong 30A setup if im charging a 5000mah 45C battery or would the smaller chargers still charge it just slower?
 

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ProPilotWannaBe

Member
Eddie, I have had several people strongly advise against using lock tight on the nuts holding plastic props. Apparently the fumes of the liquid as it dries makes the plastic brittle and will make the props snap (which happened to me twice, which is how I learned about this fact). I understand it isn't a problem for CF or wooden props. So since then I've been using a small wrench to tighten, but you don't want to over tighten either because that also weakens the plastic props. I haven't had problems with the nuts flying off, but I have read of others using locking nuts.

As for power supply, I suggest seeing what the battery is rated for charging, divide that in half, then compute what the current needed for that. So I have 3S 6000mah batteries rated for 5C charging. But to stretch out the life of the batteries, I will normally only charge it at 2.5C. So in that case, that's 15A. If you want to parallel charge, you'll need to find a charge and power supply that matches how many you want to charge simultaneously. The two chargers I have heard people most rave about are the iCharger and ThunderPowerRC chargers. These brands of chargers pretty much give you all the information you would need to maintain your batteries and ensure long life. Here's a link that might help you in picking one:
http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-battery-chargers.html

FYI, this past week I just got an eFuel 1200W power supply, and a ThunderPower TP820CD. I was needing to dual charge 6S 6000mah batteries, and wanted to do them at 2.5C, which meant 15A times two, but more importantly, since they are 6S, needed ~375 watts. I am loving my setup. Previously charging each of these batteries took over an hour and a half, and now I can do them both in 20-25 minutes.
 

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eddie200112

Member
Ok thanks again. looking to order the wiring now. I have the 30A multisatr ESC that have 3.5mm bullets connectors and the turnigy motor 490kv that has 2mm bullet connectors. would like to avoid soldering as much as possible but will If I need to. but what gauge wire to I use. I know home electrical wiring Amp limits but im guessing its different at the lower voltages we use in RC stuff. so I don't know what gauge I need to safely carry 30A to my motors. obviously smaller is better so it can fit down my boom shafts. also then any suggestions for a power distribuot where I can connect both my 5000mah 45C batteries and then split the power to the 6 ESC with 3.5mm bullets?
 

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Electro 2

Member
Wire gauge isn't as big deal as you would think. The loads imposed by a MR are transient and not continous, so you get off the hook. For primary side wiring (connects to flight pack) I use 12 AWG max and for motor side (to an individual ESC, or to an individual motor), I use 16 AWG. Works fine, zero signs of heating and plenty light, too. Yes, on the packs in parallel, a big yes, too. This halves the source impedance of the flight battery! Mucho current is available to the aircraft, flys great. I *aways* fly two batts. As long as they are relatively well matched packs, (same brand, same manufacturing batch, same age), you are good to go.
 

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eddie200112

Member
Ok so I bought a RTF aerosky dji f550 hex rotor from xheli dot com to learn how to fly and practice, but man it is very difficult to get these to hover and or fly straight or smoothly. When I start up the throttle it always drifts off to one side or another. and I feel its too sensitive. Is this just the way these are? or is there someway to make this easier?
 

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eddie200112

Member
If I connect my Naza M to it would it fly easier? how would I connect the naza to the stock receiver? and would I need to program the esc's?
 

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Dewster

Member
Think the #1 cause of multi-rotor crashes, outside of pilot error, are props that break in flight. Get reliable props.
 

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ProPilotWannaBe

Member
eddie200112 said:
If I connect my Naza M to it would it fly easier? how would I connect the naza to the stock receiver? and would I need to program the esc's?
Click to expand...
What modes does the Aerofly give you? If you can add GPS to it, it will make it easier. But every good pilot does need to master all the modes, including manual mode, which can be a challenge.
 


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eddie200112

Member
Do I need to balance the props? Would that make much more of a difference. also I reset the alt/gyro if the surface was just a very small off from level when I set them would it be causing this..
 

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ProPilotWannaBe

Member
Eddie, it sounds like u have similar modes to the Naza's "manual" and "attitude" modes. These are known to be more challenging modes since u have to be on both sticks 100% of the time. I can tell u first hand since I am still not proficient at them and am trying to practice 2-3 times a week to get there.
You can add GPS to your Naza and that's where things get 10 times easier. I'm that mode you can even take your hands off the controls and it will hold position and altitude.
There may be other issues at play here as well, and I'll let others chime in that might know your Aerofly better.
But if u can master those modes, your golden. Then when you add Naza+GPS it will like having a simple autopilot.
 

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ProPilotWannaBe

Member
As for connecting the Naza, I would recommend reading the Quick Start manual from DJI website. From your receiver, it should be five servo wires (minimum) to the Naza, typically channels one through 5, then the six servo wires to each of the motors.
 

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