New Octo, very unstable!
- Thread starter Muunk
- Start date
Hi Muunk,
I try to suggest if there are any source possible of ingress.
Could the flight controller be disturbed by a (RF) transitter, I mean e.g. video.
Many other possibilities.............
I'll post photo of my Hexa later this week. See other thread I've problem with camera stabilzation. I think source is red wire of Esc.
rgds
Koos
I try to suggest if there are any source possible of ingress.
Could the flight controller be disturbed by a (RF) transitter, I mean e.g. video.
Many other possibilities.............
I'll post photo of my Hexa later this week. See other thread I've problem with camera stabilzation. I think source is red wire of Esc.
rgds
Koos
Three flights later: gps antena location changed with no difference in behaviour. Same with the esc wires routing and changing the sign of thz Z axis of both imu and gps location. Tge flight under ground effect is a challenge but once it goes in fresh air is quite flyable. The controls are basically smooth but quick stick imputs like allways done to check gain values shows a bouncing reaction in both axis even when only one channel imput is applied. Looks like having a mix between ail and elev when doing it and ofcourse I dont have this kind of mix enabled. The only thing it rests for me is to try a normal esc setup without active freeweling and see.
BorisS
Drone Enthusiast
japp no problem to fly without the GPS plugged in did it several times already !
Well I dont know if its being desturbed something, I´ve tried to move the RX onto one the arms without any luck.
Today I´ve tried with some 12x4.5 props instead, and with a total weight a little above 8 kilos. But again without any luck.
Actually now it wants to flip front over, and I have to put full elevator back, or else it will hit the ground. And thoug I give full throttle it wont take off! Only trying to tip front over!
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Quite sure you have one or maybe the four escs running the same direction wrong pluged in dji unit. Triple check that. In my case have found that as because I was using the engine position nomeclature oh Hoverfly and all clockwise engines have an offset of one place (1/8turn). The effect was exactly the same as yours.
BorisS
Drone Enthusiast
Muunk,
once again get someone to hold the bird over his or her head give some throttle and get some feedback from the person what the bird is wanting to do !!!! The person can feel if its pulling in one or the other direction ! Do this in attitude mode though. This is the fastest way of understanding what it going on. Do both once someone is holding it, give stick commands and with feedback from the person find out if it moves correctly. The person holding it should also try to move the bird and give you feedback if the bird compensates or not.
Check list but i guess you did check this all before.
1. Motors ESCs are assigned correctly. Go 100% sure and spin up every motors once again seperatly that its really right
2. Props are on correctly
3. Spin direction of the Motors it correct, check it again.
4. IMU placement is correct in the Configruration
5. You IMU is mounted solidly no virbation dampeners or anything else is used.
6. All soldering joints are really working correcting concerning motors ESCS, spin every motors up one by one and move the cable to check if the contact isnt loose.
7. Doudle check the TX configuration. Are you setup in Plane or Heli mode ? All stick move in the config the way they should. Stick movement of one stick doesnt only moves one
slider int he TC config, no other silder is influenced.
And take of the GPS unit for test flights even if you are in attitude mode you dont need the GPS being mounted. Since it flipping you dont need to take the risk of the module being broke at some point.
For those wanted to know its an rccarbon frame. Now sold from coptersky.com.
Boris
once again get someone to hold the bird over his or her head give some throttle and get some feedback from the person what the bird is wanting to do !!!! The person can feel if its pulling in one or the other direction ! Do this in attitude mode though. This is the fastest way of understanding what it going on. Do both once someone is holding it, give stick commands and with feedback from the person find out if it moves correctly. The person holding it should also try to move the bird and give you feedback if the bird compensates or not.
Check list but i guess you did check this all before.
1. Motors ESCs are assigned correctly. Go 100% sure and spin up every motors once again seperatly that its really right
2. Props are on correctly
3. Spin direction of the Motors it correct, check it again.
4. IMU placement is correct in the Configruration
5. You IMU is mounted solidly no virbation dampeners or anything else is used.
6. All soldering joints are really working correcting concerning motors ESCS, spin every motors up one by one and move the cable to check if the contact isnt loose.
7. Doudle check the TX configuration. Are you setup in Plane or Heli mode ? All stick move in the config the way they should. Stick movement of one stick doesnt only moves one
slider int he TC config, no other silder is influenced.
And take of the GPS unit for test flights even if you are in attitude mode you dont need the GPS being mounted. Since it flipping you dont need to take the risk of the module being broke at some point.
For those wanted to know its an rccarbon frame. Now sold from coptersky.com.
Boris
Trust me this...this did it for me. Reflash firmware on your FC and run gps collaboration ever time you make changes on your setup.
Make certain that you observe double red lash after white light for confirmation of proper reading. Also be sure input changes in configuration software while your bird is level.
I hope this helps
Make certain that you observe double red lash after white light for confirmation of proper reading. Also be sure input changes in configuration software while your bird is level.
I hope this helps
In my case it was a big fail, my fault. All the rotors turning clockwise were right attached to their respective escs in the herkules board but wrong pluged to the dji. This way a back stick imput increased the front right engine and the next to the right instead of both front motors. The curious think is that yesterday I was able to manualy fly the ufo very well except the take off. Thats why I supposed the engines were right connected. A groud test manually moving the ufo advised me that only one of the two rear engines where increasing speed and the realized there were two doing it but one was nit the one that must do it. Tried a hand test with the help of a friend but he didnt notice anything strange. Nw I'm setting the right gain values: manual about 280% and atti should be somewhere about 110-150 because at the same 280 it startes to oscilate the toilett bowl dance. For me the problem has gone and now I m ready for finetunning it.
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Hi! I will try to reflash the firmware tomorrow? Are you sure you mean gps calibration and not compas`?
And can you tell me, are the IMU level being reset every time I reflash the firmware?
Thanks for the info, but props are certainly spinning the right way, I have checked it so many times now... :shame:
How big is your octo? An all up weight?
It is an droidworx octo + av130 with tow about 3900 gr full loaded. The question is not the way each rotor is turning but the way I pluged each esc on the dji. I have esc 2 pluged to socket 8, the 4 in the 2, the 6 in the 4 and the 8 in the 6th socket. So all rotor were turning right but the compensation was done very strange and at take off it allways tried to go back and left roll finishing in a combo of circles. Did you tried it in manual or atti mode?
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Boys and Girls!!
The problem has probably been solved.
Today I tested all motors by them self with a RX, and three of them started to go up and down in rpm when they´ve reach about 70-80% throttle. (I guess its the overload protection witch goes active) The funny thing was, that the motor was only pulling about 20 amps from the ESC´s when they started to cut off - its a 30 amp ESC. I tried to reprogram them in all sorts of ways you can, but with the same result :dread:
So now I´ve ordered 9 (One for sparepart) Dualsky 40Amp ESC - XC4018BA from altigator. They should do the job (I hope :tennis
Heres the specs:
Current: 40A (60A in peak)
High modulation rate PWM (10 KHz)
Up to 18 NiCd or Ni-MH cells and from 2 to 6 LiPo cells
BEC (3A) to power the receiver
Thermal protection
Easily programable
Undervoltage protection -> the cutting value can be modified
The minimum value can be programed for motor shutting-off or for low RPM mode
Break activating/desactivating possibility
Optimised advance timing
Secured activation elimination an eventual accidental motor start
Soft startup allows to avoid mechanical overload
Automating shut-off 4 seconds after signal missing/bad signal
Controlled by microprocessor of the most advanced technology
Possibility to change the rotation direction without disconnecting
Weight: 30 grams
The problem has probably been solved.
Today I tested all motors by them self with a RX, and three of them started to go up and down in rpm when they´ve reach about 70-80% throttle. (I guess its the overload protection witch goes active) The funny thing was, that the motor was only pulling about 20 amps from the ESC´s when they started to cut off - its a 30 amp ESC. I tried to reprogram them in all sorts of ways you can, but with the same result :dread:
So now I´ve ordered 9 (One for sparepart) Dualsky 40Amp ESC - XC4018BA from altigator. They should do the job (I hope :tennis
Heres the specs:
Current: 40A (60A in peak)
High modulation rate PWM (10 KHz)
Up to 18 NiCd or Ni-MH cells and from 2 to 6 LiPo cells
BEC (3A) to power the receiver
Thermal protection
Easily programable
Undervoltage protection -> the cutting value can be modified
The minimum value can be programed for motor shutting-off or for low RPM mode
Break activating/desactivating possibility
Optimised advance timing
Secured activation elimination an eventual accidental motor start
Soft startup allows to avoid mechanical overload
Automating shut-off 4 seconds after signal missing/bad signal
Controlled by microprocessor of the most advanced technology
Possibility to change the rotation direction without disconnecting
Weight: 30 grams
Well I tried with different timings, an non of it worked out, so maybe the ESC´s is just really low quality, and som of them cannot be used with those MK3638 motors? We´ll see in next week when I get my new super duber fantastic Dualsky ESC´s :highly_amused:
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srbell
Member
This doesn't have much to do with your problem, but the double flash is from your throttle stick not centred. When you're in hover at mid stick it will go back to a single flash. Good luck!
