Hoverfly New firmware for HoverflyPRO+GPS






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Stacky

Member
I can make my HFP do that if I have the AL smoothing turned all the way down to 5 and the actual AL gain down a bit low as well
 

kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
I wasn't do anything but trying to hover it, thing was all over the place, landed it, unplugged it, waited 30 seconds then went after it again and it was back to normal. Second flight
 


DucktileMedia

DucktileMedia

Drone Enthusiast
that's not good at all if it flies fine from just power cycling the controller. Yikes. Mines never done anything like this. I guess I got a good one. What are your gains set at? I'm at 40 and 12% on the XY8.
 


SleepyC

SleepyC

www.AirHeadMedia.com
I had something happen to my HFP (no gps) one time, but I am pretty sure it had something to do with the way I plugged in the pack. I noticed a pretty good arc when I plugged in the batteries, kind of like I didn't get the deans plugs right on the first push, the contacts touched, but I had to re-push them in to lock into place. The HFP fired up, I armed and took off, the rig kind of did the drunken sailor. So I landed and did as you did. Let it chill and rebooted. Never had an issue since. The HFP was on the last REV before this new one.
 


D

DennyR

Active Member
I don't know anything about Hoverfly but with ALL of the boards that I have used it is important NOT to move the model for at least 5 seconds after you switch on. Hence I use a switch to make life easy. FWIW. That is a receiver type of switch on the LV side not the main PS.
 
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DucktileMedia

DucktileMedia

Drone Enthusiast
The way I do it is to partially plug one battery in, let it initialize and make sure no funny stuff happens. Once it initializes I plug it all the way in and then plug the 2nd battery in. If any of you have ever tried unplugging an out of control flopping heli on the ground, one battery is hard enough to disconnect. And a great reminder, courtesy Ken, bring a beach towel with you at all times! One of those simple but brilliant ideas. Just toss it over the heli if the props were to go out of control and it will safely stop them.

Kloner, you know what Hoverfly says to Green board owners right? Once you go black, you dont go back. haha, kidding.
 

SleepyC

SleepyC

www.AirHeadMedia.com
Is there any reason a good strong high amp switch like we use on our 40% airplanes should not be used so you can plug in your batteries and then turn on the switch?
Seems like a decent idea to get a good "power on" burst. Or even a spark arrestor?

Borrowed from another sites post:
no spark, no wear and tear on connectors.

The first picture shows the batterys, the series adaptor with the extra JST connector, the CC 80HV ICE ESC with the connector and the resistor soldered to the + side and to the other half of the JST connector. Also an extra resistor like the one under the heat shrink. The second picture is a close up of the connections.

You can use any resistor thats around 50 to 100 ohms, the value is not critical because it's just to slow the rush of electrons that charge the capacitors in the ESC. I use a 1 watt but you could probably use a 1/2.

To connect first connect the JST connector, the caps in the ESC charge in a split second, I wait a second or two, then connect the main connector with no spark. Don't try to run the motor with just the JST connected, the resistor will not handle much and you'll need to replace it. Once the main connector is connected all the current goes through it so the JST doesn't really handle any power. I used the JST connectors because they are small, easy to find, and very inexpensive. I leave the JST connected while flying and after flying disconnect it first but it does not matter which you disconnect first.​
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yeehaanow

yeehaanow

Member
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the HFP calibrates gyros until you arm it, so moving it while it boots up is perfectly fine. Whenever I have gotten the drunken sailor I only re-armed, not re-booted, and it worked fine.
 


DucktileMedia

DucktileMedia

Drone Enthusiast
Hmmm, I stand corrected, I think you are right. I guess i interpreted the delay in the initial beeps as some sort of initialization. But when you arm it does the same thing. Good to note. I still do it for safety reasons though. If for some freak reason things go haywire the loose connection from one battery will likely pull apart or it will at least be easier to yank apart. I have no faith in anyone's electronics ad they all seem to eventually fail.
 


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