My brushless gimbal result

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Boltzman

Member
Hi! I use 16mm with 0.75x extender, total weight of 210 grams. The 10-18 weights 225 grams. So it should work, I still have some room left sliding it further back.

Also, I would definitely keep the v1 NEX-5 tray only, it is a really good high quality gimbal, Sony will come out with replacement for the NEX-5 with the same size later so that form factor is going to stay.

What I would consider is to do a gimbal for the fullframe Sony A7r and Panasonic GH3 and the rumored 4K resolution "GH4".
 

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tritan

Member
Great, sounds like it could work. I used to use the 16mm plus x0,75 but as I said I now use the SEL1018 - much better! With the 16x075 I had to use 1/800 and had problems with dark corners, no UV+polarization filters but now I am at 1/500 and can probably go even further, haven't completed testing. It costs more yes and weigh a couple of grams more but is soo much better lens.

If anyone has a V1 gimbal for sale without motors (I already have my own 4008H) pls contact me: avh803@glocalnet.net.
I dont need the vertical beam as this will be a frontmounted gimbal.

EDIT: Eyeballing shows that center of pitch motor to center af camera bolt is appx. 30mm - is that something that would be possible with a V1 tray?
 
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Boltzman

Member
Works perfect with the Sony 10-18, i even managed to mount the Cokin filter system on it.

y6yzuset.jpg


utagabat.jpg
 


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Cameraj

Member
How does the video look? What gains have you found that works? I'm so close to getting mine to run well, I still get bumps here and there,
thanks
 

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tritan

Member
Looks very good Boltzman,
Do you have any more info about your setup, frame etc?
Any vibration dampers between camera and frame?
 

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Boltzman

Member
Hi!

Please see here for my build, awesome components from Kloner and Vu at GotheliRC:
http://www.multirotorforums.com/showthread.php?12198-TBS-Discovery-Pro&p=133975#post133975

Flighttime 09:20 without FPV equipment, around 08:00 - 08:30 with FPV equipment. Please note I have a lot of stuff: 3 gps, telemetry, pixim fpv camera, osd with amp meter, waterbuoys, special landing gear etc, filters, lighting etc. I can do around 15-16 min if I go on larger props and longer arms. The record for this design is around 28 min at 6S with a GoPro3 with brushless gimbal, I believe I can do at least 25 minwith the NEX-5 camera and gimbal, only 500 grams difference.

Gains:
PID should be around
Roll 18 / .10 / 12 Power 220
Pitch 14 / .10 / 10 Power 115
The sensor needs to be mounted under the tray, very important.

No vibration dampener, hard mounted to a MDF board. Works fantastic, you dont want that flex.

Video:
http://vimeo.com/65596091
This was an old rig, same design but with extension arms and not as fine tuned.

Compare this to a S800, it fits straight into my backpack, only props are required to be pulled off but I am already working on a foldable prop solution...
 

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Boltzman

Member
Also, extremely important to mount gps very high from everything. Things are so compact and everything radiates interference. Gps and fpv camera are foldable so its easy to pack. Center of gravity needs to be dead center to achieve the perfect stability, then it flies like german tank. Did a flight test in 17-18 m/s wind and it was still standing strong, carbon arms are essential for that wind to avoid arm flexing.
 

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Cameraj

Member
Wow , love the video. Interesting you found hard mounting the gimbal works best?, I will have to give that a try, what lens are you running on the sony nex5?
 


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Boltzman

Member
The video is shot with the 16mm 2.8 pancake lens with the Sony 0.75x extender. Haven't been flying the 10-18 extensively yet but I will go to Philippines next week and spend some time with it. Though, its is now attached to my Sony A7r and it seems to deliver on the full frame sensor from 13mm and up, even though some minor sharpness reduction in the corners.
 

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Cameraj

Member
How do you like the Sony a7r? Is there a big difference to the nex line of cameras that you see ? One more thing, how did you mount the gimbal on MDF? How thick of wood did you feel was safe, and MDF is pretty heavy ,is there a reason you didn't use any other meterial?
thanks for all the info,
 

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Boltzman

Member
Hi!

I don't fly the A7r, at least not yet... and as I mainly do video work the Nex-5 is sufficient. A7r is under test, but so far so good. The setup weight is 1/3 of Canon 5D with an equivalent lens. This weight reduction evolution is so important for this industry. It beats Canon 5D mk3 by far on the photo resolution, dynamic range and noise. But video is still slightly better on the Canon, specifically the moire pattern, and naturally the beauty to shot raw video with magic lantern hack.

I use 2 cm thick black MDF, more than enough, it's super light as well (i believe it was around 25 grams..). Tried rubber but it's 2,5x the weight and impossible to work with.

Hard mounted actually works brilliant in this case. but please remember to balance props and use well balance motors...
 

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Cameraj

Member
Thanks,

I have the same gimbal from Vu,
I'm so close to getting it to run good, I get bumps and Jerks in forwarded flight, I have tried all different suspension type systems from standoffs to balls etc, to much movement I guess, never though of hard mounting, from Vu, settings for the PID, he has it set is for 18-55 lens, how much would you lower the settings for the lite pancake 16mm lens?
Where did you happen to find MDF 2cm in black, I almost cut of my clip board I had laying around :)
 

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Cameraj

Member
So I tried the hard mount way, mind you the wind was high and got a lot of bumps in the footage and lost position once or twice, I'm running the new alexmos board and new firmware,

I'm wondering where to go with the gains? My gains are roll, 15 .20 14 and power 175 for the pitch : 12. .20 12 and power 75

any ideas ? It moves more in the roll than the pitch, do people run different gains for wind?

thanks,
J
 

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Boltzman

Member
PID should be around
Roll 18 / .10 / 12 Power 220
Pitch 14 / .10 / 10 Power 115

I would increase power. I had to put ferrite ring on the sensor cable and click in I2C pulldown and PWM high mode. Had a lot of twitches before that.

The MDF board I got here in Sweden, maybe Home Depot where you live?
 

jfro

jfro

Aerial Fun
Boltzman said:
PID should be around
Roll 18 / .10 / 12 Power 220
Pitch 14 / .10 / 10 Power 115

I would increase power. I had to put ferrite ring on the sensor cable and click in I2C pulldown and PWM high mode. Had a lot of twitches before that.

The MDF board I got here in Sweden, maybe Home Depot where you live?
Click to expand...

Clicking on I2C pulldown. What caused you to try that? Was it gimbal twitches on roll?

The Baseline interface says "enabling pullups is potentially dangerous for IC2 devices without LLC? " What is LLC?

What do mean by twitches? I get some shudders on roll when initializing a move as opposed to just slow flying or drifting.

Did you put ferrite rings on motors and IMU cable? How many turns did you do on the ferrite ring?

My v1 gimbal was flying fine, then swapped out 30amp for 40amp and retuned. Ever since then, I have not had the same smoothness. Some days it's worse than others.....

I'm wondering if there is some efi coming off the GPS puck (which I lowerd) or of the new ESC's which had ferrite rings on which the FC manufacturer told me to take off as tney were not needed. Very strange these problems.
 

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daniel

Member
jfro said:
Clicking on I2C pulldown. What caused you to try that? Was it gimbal twitches on roll?

The Baseline interface says "enabling pullups is potentially dangerous for IC2 devices without LLC? " What is LLC?

What do mean by twitches? I get some shudders on roll when initializing a move as opposed to just slow flying or drifting.

Did you put ferrite rings on motors and IMU cable? How many turns did you do on the ferrite ring?

My v1 gimbal was flying fine, then swapped out 30amp for 40amp and retuned. Ever since then, I have not had the same smoothness. Some days it's worse than others.....

I'm wondering if there is some efi coming off the GPS puck (which I lowerd) or of the new ESC's which had ferrite rings on which the FC manufacturer told me to take off as tney were not needed. Very strange these problems.
Click to expand...

My gimbal, go crazy when flying in he city, looks like radio, and telephone antenas affect the boards.....

when i fly in the desert, or outside the city, gimbal is perfect.....

for sure this boards get affected for some kind of antennas and signals....

any gps shield should work??
 

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Cameraj

Member
So I'm going to try higher values, it's strange that when I got my new gimbal board two weeks ago my values where around the same for the P, but the , I was .20 and the D around the same, but the power was much lower , 175 and 75 for roll and pitch,

bolt ,
your gimbal when you force the camera lens down does it come back very slow?
thanks for your time:)
 

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Cameraj

Member
So i tried more power and it made it a little worse in forward flight, man the time I have put into this gimbal, like Patric at aerial media pros told me, just buy the zenmuse for the nex5 and be done with it, it looking truer each passing day
 

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