My brushless gimbal result

rocjock

Member
Have the writing facing down so that you can read it. Then change the axis settings to what I wrote up thread. You will need 2.0b3 firmware to do that.
 

AerialVid

Member
No, except it has been raining a LOT here lately. If I mount the IMU on the bottom, which side should be facing down?

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141

I am sure you did this already but if not... did you watch the balance video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9u6GTOnJnk
I am having some small jitter issues but still mostly usable footage, I am going to rebalance and hope thats my problem. I did a motor/prop balance last night, all seems good. It might be the makeshift frame mount I made also.. lol Anyways! Goodluck to all, I wish you luck and if I think of anything else I will post up also. I upgraded to 2.1 firmware tonight also Alexmos.
 

badbill

Member
I am sure you did this already but if not... did you watch the balance video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9u6GTOnJnk
I am having some small jitter issues but still mostly usable footage, I am going to rebalance and hope thats my problem. I did a motor/prop balance last night, all seems good. It might be the makeshift frame mount I made also.. lol Anyways! Goodluck to all, I wish you luck and if I think of anything else I will post up also. I upgraded to 2.1 firmware tonight also Alexmos.

Yes, this is my 4th brushless gimbal, it is balanced correctly.

Thanks,

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
 

AerialVid

Member
Yes, this is my 4th brushless gimbal, it is balanced correctly.

Thanks,

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141

Very cool... yea i have seen you post in the YUN1 thread. I had issues with my sensor originally with that gimbal that was causing a bounce and freak out. They sent me a new one and all has been good so far. I am using it on this gimbal now...
 

Cameraj

Member
On my gotheli rc gimbal I'm so close, in forward flight I get a viberation on the roll . I can't think of what else I can try, on the bench it works great when I through it around, after lowering the gains of the PID,
anyone get that gimabl to work great?
 

julien23

New Member
Bill and cameraj,

If you have version 2 of V's gimbal and the IMU is mounted on the top crossbar, I would recommend moving it to the lower crossbar. Place the IMU under the camera. You will have to load version : 2.0b3 of the software. Change axis settings to TOP: -Z and RIGHT: -X

Sean

Thanks a lot for your idea!!! I moved my IMU from the top to the lower crossbar and my results are a way better from before!
I still have to tune a little bit my gains (i used the ones gave by Gothelicrc) because i've a little bit horizon drift but i'm a happy guy right now!
 

daniel

Member
Thanks a lot for your idea!!! I moved my IMU from the top to the lower crossbar and my results are a way better from before!
I still have to tune a little bit my gains (i used the ones gave by Gothelicrc) because i've a little bit horizon drift but i'm a happy guy right now!


hi,

can you post a photo of your imu in the lower crossbar? if possible.....

thanks for your time!!

daniel
 

badbill

Member
Sean & All,
Looks like that did it for me also. I will say though, a couple of things- firstly, I haven't flown it. And I wish I had made changes one at a time; I took the IMU off the top crossbar, and thinking of the humidity problem, I shrunk some clear heatshrink over it. I should have put it back on the top and tried it then, but I didn't. I moved it to the bottom, and brought it into my office to plug to my PC. I powered everything up before plugging it in and lo and behold- no jittering and works perfect. I didn't have to go to 2.1 firmware, so I am sticking with 1.3 for now. On the ground it works perfect, I was able to increase PWM to 225 / 100 without jitters and the motors perfectly cold! Hopefully get to fly it soon. Thanks all!

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141

View attachment 12742View attachment 12743
 

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rocjock

Member
Bill, it's the remount! I promise. Glad to hear people are resolving some issues.

And Bill, you might even try bringing down Power on the roll. As long as it has enough power/torque to hold the camera, which it should, you can bring it down.

Also, if you mount as Bill did you shouldn't have to change axis settings and/or firmware. If you flip the IMU and then mount it, so that the circuitry is visible, you will have to be sure to use 2.0b3 and change the axis settings to what I wrote up thread.
 


RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
Great!!!

double sided tape is enough to put it in the lower bar?

thanks

Double sided tape works well, just make sure to get it square to the frame and secure it so it can't move. The tape will isolate the sensor from any vibration that might get transmitted though the frame of the gimbal and help smooth the responses. That said it shouldn't really matter if it's mounted top or bottom of the frame, I have gimbals with the sensor mounted both ways and they all work the same, I would suspect the wire routing or the mounting method causing the problem with the newer VX5N gimbals. Mine has the sensor mounted on the bottom, it came that way so I don't know how it's done on the newer versions.

I would also highly recommend moving to the V2.X firmware, it a lot more solid on the roll axis with virtually no horizon drift when properly dialed in. It also has the ability to change the update frequency to the motors which eliminates the high pitch squeal, that alone made it worth the update for me.

Ken
 

Cameraj

Member
Double sided tape works well, just make sure to get it square to the frame and secure it so it can't move. The tape will isolate the sensor from any vibration that might get transmitted though the frame of the gimbal and help smooth the responses. That said it shouldn't really matter if it's mounted top or bottom of the frame, I have gimbals with the sensor mounted both ways and they all work the same, I would suspect the wire routing or the mounting method causing the problem with the newer VX5N gimbals. Mine has the sensor mounted on the bottom, it came that way so I don't know how it's done on the newer versions.

I would also highly recommend moving to the V2.X firmware, it a lot more solid on the roll axis with virtually no horizon drift when properly dialed in. It also has the ability to change the update frequency to the motors which eliminates the high pitch squeal, that alone made it worth the update for me.

Ken
hi Ken, what pid and powers setting have you found to work with the sony nex5? I'm 95% there in wind I get a little shake, and ideas how to fine tune that out?
thanks,
jason
 

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
hi Ken, what pid and powers setting have you found to work with the sony nex5? I'm 95% there in wind I get a little shake, and ideas how to fine tune that out?
thanks,
jason

I'll let you know the final setup soon. I just moved the gimbal to my Droidworx frame and I'm getting it dialed in now. Two issues I have to deal with, one I screwed up and broke one of the connections between the windings and the motor power wire, managed to do an iffy repair but it's inconsistant, new motor should be in today's mail. Second issue is my JR 11x went belly up over the weekend and I suspect some of the problems I had trying to get the F/C and gimbal dialed in were directly related to the failing TX, I just got my MK quad moved over to another TX and all of a sudden it flys a lot better so I'm fairly certain the radio has been failing slowly for a while. Right now I have the top off the Droidworx while I install an FRSky telemetry RX with power monitoring, altitude, RSSI back to a screen on my TX. I need to solder a servo lead to the MK F/C to use PPM from the RX which I'll be doing shortly.

All that with needing to swap the tilt motor on the gimbal and it's going to be a couple days before I have it all dialed in and can give a realistic set of parameters that work. FWIW, I was getting some random shakes in FFF, not sure if it was settings, the iffy motor wire repair, the way it's mounted to the AD-6, or the TX causing it, I do know the problem wasn't there when I had the gimbal under the Cinestar 6. If I can't eliminate it on the Droidworx frame it will go back on the CS to see if its an issue with the 2.1 firmware or the way I have it mounted.

Ken
 

GotHeliRC

http://gothelirc.com
Mounting the IMU on top or bottom does make a different. When the IMU is mounted on the top, due to the offset of the axis, the IMU sit further out from the tilt axis... meaning it will be more sensitive. So any vibration is causing by the tilt motor will get amplify a lot more. So it's hard to get it tune if the IMU is mounting on top.

So if you're having a hard time getting the motor jitter out with tuning, quick fix would be mounting the IMU on the bottom.

If you have some jitter during forward flight (depend if it does it in both axis or which ever axis)... decrease P and increase D.... Most of the time the P gain are set too high.
 



daniel

Member
just in case,....we are talking about all this with the 18-55mm lens right?? or anybody is using the 16mm 2.8?

im sure if using the 16mm lens , there is a lot of settings to play with?

thanks
 


ary

Member
I got much improvement by doing this. Put IMU inside plastic tube (it will eliminate wind disturbance to IMU during FFF) & Using foam tape. Im using GH3 +14mm pancake.
 

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