FrSky Telemetry Modules
- Thread starter HexaTiger
- Start date
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Hey Hex! Welcome to the forum. I started a thread a while ago about the taranis? X8r and associated sensors. You can see it HERE: unfortunately, it hasn't been updated much. It does list some good how-to's and retailers.
I personally have the current sensor (they make several - but the newest is a smart port enabled 150A Hall type sensor) and the FLVSS which gives you voltage by cell and total on your taranis. If you find that you want to use some of the non-smart port sensors, you can daisy chain them through the high precision vario by modifying the included cable. Very easy and opens up many more sensors.
Good luck and fly safe.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Yep. The high precision vario will give you altitude (doesn't seem super accurate to me - but pretty close). That will serve dual purpose of opening up choices for the legacy sensors.
fltundra
Member
I use the Unisens-E, and the vario and current sensor are very accurate and with the frsky lipo sensor.
http://translate.google.ca/translat...N0b&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb
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Can I connect the 40A current sensor inline between my battery and PDB? Or will the amperage exceed the capability of the sensor? I'm using a sky lips 5000mAh, 4S, 40C battery.
I'm also nervous about introducing another point of failure between the battery and the rest of the craft. Any advice? Do and do nots?
I'm also nervous about introducing another point of failure between the battery and the rest of the craft. Any advice? Do and do nots?
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
you can, but you have to calculate the amp draw you will be using. If it's below 40 amps at peak, then it will be fine. Land yes, it's another possible point of failure. That's why the hall sensor is better for me. 150A capacity and it doesn't interrupt any direct connections.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
It's easy if you need to connect both SMART and non-SMART type sensors. At the time, they didn't have the higher current sensor available for SMART - so I used the older style. You just need to modify the cables that are supplied.
You just cut the provided Data-In cable of the Vario and connect yellow and black to yellow and black of FAS cable.
I don't know if there are any non-smart sensors that i feel are necessary of you get the 150A Hall sensor for current.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Nope. They can be daisy chained any way you like. There may be some exception to that - but I think it's due to using both smart and non-sport sensors.
I think the Vendor Helibatics has a youtube channel with some of this addressed.
I'm sure there are videos and information out there for me, but you guys seem to have a wealth of knowledge regarding this kind of stuff so maybe you'll offer some quick insight. What is the best way to setup the RPM/Temp sensor? Is there any real meaningful data you can record from the temp of one Motor/ESC combo? Let me know if my questions are too blasé, and I'll do the research on my own.
Thanks again for all of your help.
Thanks again for all of your help.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Not sure about those sensors. They are definitely legacy, as far as I recall. So you'd have to do the mod I explained earlier. I'm not sure how valuable the data would be for rpm and temp. I guess it could help avoid an crash if the temp got real hot - and happened to get hot on the one motor you were monitoring.
Rpm can be figured out based on motor/battery specs. That's what the Kv is. So not real sure this would help much.
It was more of a novelty purchase. It appears on the Aloft website as a "Smart Port" sensor, and the diagrams they show would attest to that. I'm still considering where would be best to mount it. I might stick it on the motor that has the 40A current sensor as well, to keep all of my data consistent with the same motor.
It is likely that the current draw of all motors exceeds 40A during full throttle pull outs; therefore, I'm attempting to limit points of failure between the battery and FC so I'm hesitant to add an in-line sensor to the system. I purchased a Hall-style sensor for the main power leads.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
The smart port rpm or temp sensor is new to me. Good catch.
For power, You don't need a current sensor on an individual motor if you have the larger Hall sensor on the power leads. That will give you all the data you need, if used with the FAS cell checker.
That will give you lowest cell, all cells combined (for only 1 battery if you're using 2), consumption and amp draw. Also, I wouldn't suggest putting a current sensor on a single motor/ESC because you'll change the length of the run to just that one motor - and some FCs have an issue with that.
For power, You don't need a current sensor on an individual motor if you have the larger Hall sensor on the power leads. That will give you all the data you need, if used with the FAS cell checker.
That will give you lowest cell, all cells combined (for only 1 battery if you're using 2), consumption and amp draw. Also, I wouldn't suggest putting a current sensor on a single motor/ESC because you'll change the length of the run to just that one motor - and some FCs have an issue with that.
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Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Just making sure, you have it plugged in the correct direction, right?
The taranis has to be on FAS, if I recall correctly. It's not the A1 or A2, one of those is the voltage at the RX (with voltage divider).
The taranis has to be on FAS, if I recall correctly. It's not the A1 or A2, one of those is the voltage at the RX (with voltage divider).