Faulty NAZA?

M

mpilot

Member
Been having issue with my F450 and NAZA. It Constantly moves to the left and fails to altitude hold (have set switch on Tx to flick to 50%)

This evening I gone through yet more testing after Kloners help (thank you). I had tp push the Pitch and Roll gains upto 320% in order to get the copter to vibrate however this did not stop the pull to the left.

So far I've:
Spent hours on various gains
Tried the battery in different postions, further to the right to counter the left pull
Remounted the NAZA (used a bubble level to check its level)
Moved the props around
Tried both 8inch and 10inch props (3s lipo)
Tried various setting on my DX8 - set up both Airplane and Heli modes
Rebound the TX and RX several times
I've even tried inserting some folder paper under the side of the NAZA to lift to see of it would stop the left pull

None of this stops the pronounced left movement. All I can think of now is the NAZA is faulty.

Anything else I can try. Getting very fed up with it :(
 

S

SK1

Member
My F450 and Naza also wants to yaw to the left, I just added some sub trim on my transmitter to correct that problem and its working ok now.
 


S

SK1

Member
I had my gains on 120, 120, 120, 100 and attitude on 110, 110 I think, have to check when I get home tonite.
 


M

mailman35

Member
subtrim will be different on each setup. check it in the assistant. also reseat the fc. make sure its straight and use something other then the crap pads that come with the arf kit.
 

J

jckoniecki

Member
I had this problem until I hot glued the Naza to the frame. I simply put 4 dots on the corners. I checked with a level for accuracy. This is easly remoed with a plastic spudger if you need to work on it.

Also on my controller I can monitor my sicks and settings I would ensure all switches are on 0 and all controls are at -0.

Hope this helps.
 


M

mpilot

Member
jckoniecki said:
I had this problem until I hot glued the Naza to the frame. I simply put 4 dots on the corners. I checked with a level for accuracy. This is easly remoed with a plastic spudger if you need to work on it.

Also on my controller I can monitor my sicks and settings I would ensure all switches are on 0 and all controls are at -0.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I've check the 0 in software assistant and in the monitor screen on my DX8 and all are good. I don't have a hot glue gun but have tried other pads to hold the Naza down but it made no difference.
 

S

SK1

Member
mpilot said:
That would be great, can you also let me know the sub trim value and for which sub trim, thanks :)
Click to expand...

Sorry mpilot, had to do my homework for my class tomorrow: Here's my gain settings on my Naza, 80, 80, 80, 110, and ATTI 130, 130 and my sub trim on my right rudder is 39. Hope that helps you.
 

M

mpilot

Member
Thanks. You say rudder, which stick are you referring to. I have to correct with right stick moving it to the right which I thought was Aileron so surely I sub trim the Aileron?
 

T

Tahoe Ed

Active Member
Try raising your gain on Basic and lowering them on ATTI. My favorite starting point is 145/145/130/150 and ATTI 90/90 with 30% expo on elevator and aileron channels. You should never have to run sub trim on your Naza with the exception of the gear channel when running GPS. It is just not needed. Make sure that you don't have any trim set up in your Tx before you calibrate and all your travel adjustments are set at 100%. Your gear will be somewhere around +/- 80-85% to set your end points of the mode switch.

Your rudder is on the same stick as the throttle and rotates the craft around a point. The Aileron will move the craft from side to side and the Elevator will move the craft front to back.
 


T

Tahoe Ed

Active Member
Sure, in you menu screen, there is a sub-menu titled D/R and Expo. There you can adjust both parameters on any of the channels. Expo just smooths things our around the center of the stick so you don't get jerky movements. You will see a graphic on the right hand side of the display. As you move the expo you will notice the linear curve goes from straight line to flattened at the center. Don't play with the D/R and leave it at 100% otherwise you will not be able to arm you DJI. Again make sure that there are no trims and sub-trims set up in our TX before you calibrate in Assistant. The sliders move as follows, TH increase will move the slider to the right, the rudder and aileron moves from left to right following the actions of the stick, the elevator moves right when the stick is moved forward and left when the stick is moved back. When you finish calibrating all sticks should be highlighted in green. At that point hit your "write" button. Also make sure that you are mode sliders are highlighted in blue when you move your mode switch. If you are flying in manual, gyro only mode, any imbalance in the craft will cause it to move in the direction of the imbalance. While in ATTI mode you add accelerometers to the mix along with a barometric sensor for altitude hold. It almost sounds like you were flying in Manual mode vs ATTI.
 

M

mpilot

Member
Thanks.

I've set a 3 way switch and verified that it works in the Naza software adn it flicks through A Manual and Failsafe, I fly in A, if I flick to M the quad is to harder to control.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

S

SK1

Member
mpilot said:
Thanks. You say rudder, which stick are you referring to. I have to correct with right stick moving it to the right which I thought was Aileron so surely I sub trim the Aileron?
Click to expand...

I say rudder because my quad has a tendency to yaw to the left, it wants to turn counterclockwise to the left, after adding a sub trim on the right rudder of my transmitter, it stopped that yawing to the left and just stays on one spot, just the way I like it. Its not the aileron, but the rudder, the left stick.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

M

mpilot

Member
SK1 said:
I say rudder because my quad has a tendency to yaw to the left, it wants to turn counterclockwise to the left, after adding a sub trim on the right rudder of my transmitter, it stopped that yawing to the left and just stays on one spot, just the way I like it. Its not the aileron, but the rudder, the left stick.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, thanks.
 

M

mpilot

Member
Been trying again to sort this, tried these one at a time:

Sub trim on aileron all the way up to 60 and it made no difference
Moved the NAZA to the right of the board and it made no difference
Moved the NAZA to the front of the board and it made no difference
Moved the NAZA to the front and right of the board and it made no difference
Swapped the left rear motor with the right front and it made no differnce
Tried a different Rx, recalibrate and set up etc and it made no difference
Tried the 30% expo and it made no difference

I don't think I have anything left to try. The NAZA must be faulty.
 

sim_io

sim_io

Member
I've crashed my naza hexa by flying very high, practically the edge of space then a motor failure caused it to free fall at terminal vel.
Except for the naza everything else died, even the xt-60 plugs broke and left a crater on the ground, it now flies a quad.
 


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