Earl E Adobtr
Paul
gringers, you might be able to get an answer from Bartman on why you can't edit your original post if you PM him.
Basic Setup Instructions for FrSky Taranis, X8R and Naza-M V2
- Thread starter gringers
- Start date
gomotomoto
Member
Does anyone know of a good set of sound files I can use for a multi rotor. Messing around with the custom sounds and it is awesome! The stock ones aren't perfect and figure there must be a set out there somewhere that's perfect.
Also, does anyone know how to change the startup sound file -- so it plays something other than "WELCOME TO TARANIS" feel like such a dork when that plays every single time! hahaha
Also, does anyone know how to change the startup sound file -- so it plays something other than "WELCOME TO TARANIS" feel like such a dork when that plays every single time! hahaha
TahoeTim
Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkOkSHfhoyc
http://www.multikopter.co.uk/forum/...m-sounds-for-apm-arm-disarm-and-flight-modes/
Also search you tube for r scott page
http://www.multikopter.co.uk/forum/...m-sounds-for-apm-arm-disarm-and-flight-modes/
Also search you tube for r scott page
gomotomoto
Member
Thanks Tim!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
gomotomoto
Member
Sorry, not had a lot of time to spend here (or flying :upset: ) recently.....
Certainly is and I guess it comes down to personal preference a lot of the time, I'm not sure whether there's really a right or a wrong way, just different ways! I prefer the way I set it up which is based on the way I set up my futaba T8J originally but I do like the way he set up his failsafe (panic button) by changing the multiplex field to 'replace' - that's nice and simple and not something I was aware of!
Delete the tada.wav file (or replace with your own) on the sd card in the sounds/system folder
Go to the custom functions screen (page 11/13). Select an unused CF. In the first field, select the switch you want to use. In the second field, scroll through and select 'Play Val' and in the thrid field scroll through until you find RSSI. The fourth field sets how often (if at all) to repeat the announcement when the switch is activated.
Repeat with as many CF's as you want and replace the field with RSSI to announce any other values ('A1' for battery voltage and 'Batt' for Transmitter voltage)
Cheers!
Certainly is and I guess it comes down to personal preference a lot of the time, I'm not sure whether there's really a right or a wrong way, just different ways! I prefer the way I set it up which is based on the way I set up my futaba T8J originally but I do like the way he set up his failsafe (panic button) by changing the multiplex field to 'replace' - that's nice and simple and not something I was aware of!
Delete the tada.wav file (or replace with your own) on the sd card in the sounds/system folder
Go to the custom functions screen (page 11/13). Select an unused CF. In the first field, select the switch you want to use. In the second field, scroll through and select 'Play Val' and in the thrid field scroll through until you find RSSI. The fourth field sets how often (if at all) to repeat the announcement when the switch is activated.
Repeat with as many CF's as you want and replace the field with RSSI to announce any other values ('A1' for battery voltage and 'Batt' for Transmitter voltage)
Cheers!
TahoeTim
Member
Yep, I entered three lines of CF's that are all on SH. When I flick it, it starts to read off the voltages and RSSI. I have programmed my mode switch to read out the mode I am flying in. I found a custom file of recordings somewhere on the net. They aren't the best but all the typical multirotor sound recordings are in there. I even set the arming and disarming code so I didn't have to rely on the lights buried on the board. That one is fairly complicated with time delays. It works perfectly.
IMHO, the Taranis is the safest transmitter setup. No question about modes, voltages, RSSI, or whether you are armed. You could mix a timer switch so the armed speech repeats until you flip another spare switch to shut it off. I suppose you could get it to repeat until you raised the throttle the first time! So many possibilities...
Here's the You tube video for all of it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOnQJkfAbvU
IMHO, the Taranis is the safest transmitter setup. No question about modes, voltages, RSSI, or whether you are armed. You could mix a timer switch so the armed speech repeats until you flip another spare switch to shut it off. I suppose you could get it to repeat until you raised the throttle the first time! So many possibilities...
Here's the You tube video for all of it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOnQJkfAbvU
Last edited by a moderator:
gomotomoto
Member
If you have gimbal control on CH5 & IOC on CH6, is that incorrect?
If your using CH5 for the gimbal CH6 for gain adjustment, then where are you supposed to put the IOC?
Lastly, I feel like a moron for asking this but what is gain adjustment?
If your using CH5 for the gimbal CH6 for gain adjustment, then where are you supposed to put the IOC?
Lastly, I feel like a moron for asking this but what is gain adjustment?
I was hoping with all my extensive reading and planning I would not need to contact you folks for HELP.
Here goes:
I have a F550 kit with E300 ECU and motors. I have NazaM V2 with GPS, I have the Bluetooth module (BTU), I have the FrSky X8R with the FrSky Taranis X9D, all powered by 4S 2650 50C.
I have connected the X8R receiver from SBUS to X2 on NazaM.
Here’s the issue – I’m just HOPELESS and about to throw my Taranis and X8R in the bin as I just can’t program this. I can’t get my head around concept, and I’ve now spent my whole weekend some 20+ hours following simple instructions but I still can’t get it powered up.
I used a quad EEPROM from http://rcsettings.com/index.php/view.../6-multirotors - this this able to power up the motors but failsafe, Atti, GPS switches would not work correctly – I’ve tried (without success) to re-program – and now I can’t get the motors to fire up.
I’m not usually one to give up – but as my first foray into RC and Hexa – I feel I’ve bitten off more than I can chew with the X9D and X8R.
Howver, I get ERROR [29] which reads "Error [29]
Motors Start failure caused by TX stick(s) mid point error too big
If the TX stick(s) mid point error is too big, Motors Start will fail when you execute the Combination Stick Commands (CSC) and lead to the aircraft will not take-off.. And the LED will blink Red four times per second continually to warn you.
TX stick(s) mid point error too big can be caused by the following reasons:
(1) There is TX stick (except the throttle stick) not at center when power on the autopilot system.
(2) The TX sticks has been trimmed, which leads to the large deviation of mid point. For example, the SUB-TRIM has been adjusted for Futaba transmitter.
(3) The TX stick(s) travel has larger asymmetry.
For the reason (1), please put all TX sticks at the mid point, and then power cycle the autopilot system to re-record the mid point. If the problem continues, that can be caused by the reason (2) or reason (3), you need to adjust the output range of your TX, and then use the Assistant Software to redo the TX calibration. Please carry out the following procedures.
(1) Connect to the Assistant software, click Basic-> R/C-> Command Sticks Calibration, and push all TX sticks throughout their complete travel range to see if any stick cannot reach its largest position.
(2) Adjust the largest travel of TX stick until the cursor on the Assistant software can reach both end positions, according to your TX manual.
(3) Power cycle the autopilot system, note that power cycle is required.
(4) Redo the TX calibration according to the Assistant software."
I can't get passed this so as to initiate start.
Any suggestions?
ANDREW
Here goes:
I have a F550 kit with E300 ECU and motors. I have NazaM V2 with GPS, I have the Bluetooth module (BTU), I have the FrSky X8R with the FrSky Taranis X9D, all powered by 4S 2650 50C.
I have connected the X8R receiver from SBUS to X2 on NazaM.
Here’s the issue – I’m just HOPELESS and about to throw my Taranis and X8R in the bin as I just can’t program this. I can’t get my head around concept, and I’ve now spent my whole weekend some 20+ hours following simple instructions but I still can’t get it powered up.
I used a quad EEPROM from http://rcsettings.com/index.php/view.../6-multirotors - this this able to power up the motors but failsafe, Atti, GPS switches would not work correctly – I’ve tried (without success) to re-program – and now I can’t get the motors to fire up.
I’m not usually one to give up – but as my first foray into RC and Hexa – I feel I’ve bitten off more than I can chew with the X9D and X8R.
Howver, I get ERROR [29] which reads "Error [29]
Motors Start failure caused by TX stick(s) mid point error too big
If the TX stick(s) mid point error is too big, Motors Start will fail when you execute the Combination Stick Commands (CSC) and lead to the aircraft will not take-off.. And the LED will blink Red four times per second continually to warn you.
TX stick(s) mid point error too big can be caused by the following reasons:
(1) There is TX stick (except the throttle stick) not at center when power on the autopilot system.
(2) The TX sticks has been trimmed, which leads to the large deviation of mid point. For example, the SUB-TRIM has been adjusted for Futaba transmitter.
(3) The TX stick(s) travel has larger asymmetry.
For the reason (1), please put all TX sticks at the mid point, and then power cycle the autopilot system to re-record the mid point. If the problem continues, that can be caused by the reason (2) or reason (3), you need to adjust the output range of your TX, and then use the Assistant Software to redo the TX calibration. Please carry out the following procedures.
(1) Connect to the Assistant software, click Basic-> R/C-> Command Sticks Calibration, and push all TX sticks throughout their complete travel range to see if any stick cannot reach its largest position.
(2) Adjust the largest travel of TX stick until the cursor on the Assistant software can reach both end positions, according to your TX manual.
(3) Power cycle the autopilot system, note that power cycle is required.
(4) Redo the TX calibration according to the Assistant software."
I can't get passed this so as to initiate start.
Any suggestions?
ANDREW
gomotomoto
Member
I'd say hang in there Andrew. Go back to the drawing board with the binding and basic setup, I had to do mine a few times too. Oh, and if it helps I had to do it several times , and I figured it out. You can too.
I also think I'm about 100 hours into my education, so don't beat yourself up on the 20 spent.
Take your time, go slow and find the basic setup thread on this site. Oh, and google/youtube Scott page.
Don't give up. The journey is the destination...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What I would do:
- Don’t use someone else’s EEPROM, I tried a couple before biting the bullet and learning for myself and the ones I downloaded, as you’re finding, didn’t work!
- Make sure you’re using a freshly charged battery.
- Calibrate your Taranis (switch on, press ‘MENU’ and then ‘PAGE’ repeatedly until you get to the calibration screen’. Follow the instructions to make sure the tx is calibrated before starting anything else)
- Create a brand new model on the Taranis so you don’t run the risk of inheriting a previously incorrectly set up model. (From the start up screen, press ‘MENU’ and scroll to an unused model. Press and hold ‘ENT’ until the ‘Create Model’ Dialogue appears. And press ‘ENT’ to create the new model.
- From there, follow the instructions in post 1 of this thread up to and including the ‘Connecting to the Assistant Software and Calibrating’ section. Whilst it may look like a wall of text, I was pretty careful to explain every step you need to take so just take your time and work through it carefully. Shout if you don’t understand anything.
- At this point you should be connected to the Assistant and you should verify that the ‘Receiver Type’ found in the ‘basic/RC’ tabs of the Assistant is correctly set as ‘D-Bus’
- You should also by this point have run the Command Stick calibration tool found in the Assistant under the ‘basic/RC’ tabs. So now, you should now be in a position where the movement of your tx sticks is accurately reflected by the graphical sliders in the Assistant. Also, very importantly, when your sticks are centered, the pointer on the slider should also be centered and GREEN.
Thanks for the help.
After getting completely frustrated at my own incompetence I used an EEPROM from here: http://rcsettings.com/index.php/viewdownload/6-multirotors/40-dji-naza-w-extras
I went into the model setup and then to SERVOS, and changed CH3 minimum to -101 - this appears to power up the motors.
I'm just having a complete mental lock in understanding the principles of Taranis - it's like reading Klingon!
It appears that with this EEPROM all the switches work - however I have no idea what Switch SG does "Rate / Expo 1", "Rate / Expo 2" and "Rate / Expo 3"
[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Any light shedding would be appreciated.[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]ANDREW[/FONT]
After getting completely frustrated at my own incompetence I used an EEPROM from here: http://rcsettings.com/index.php/viewdownload/6-multirotors/40-dji-naza-w-extras
I went into the model setup and then to SERVOS, and changed CH3 minimum to -101 - this appears to power up the motors.
I'm just having a complete mental lock in understanding the principles of Taranis - it's like reading Klingon!
It appears that with this EEPROM all the switches work - however I have no idea what Switch SG does "Rate / Expo 1", "Rate / Expo 2" and "Rate / Expo 3"
[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Any light shedding would be appreciated.[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]ANDREW[/FONT]
Hi Everyone, new user here.
First off, thanks to gringers for setting up this thread. It is extremely informative and really has persuaded me to go with a Taranis x9d.
Currently, I have a phantom 2Z and planning on building an F550 with just about an identical part list to yours Andrew.
Was wondering how everything went with the update for your Taranis and if you've gone out flying your F550 yet?
Any advice you or anyone else would pass along to someone just starting out with building the F550?
New to RC stuff like this, but have been an electronic tech for more then a few decades. My expertise is more computer related.
Also have a question on the Taranis x9d. Are both the sticks self centering, or can they be setup that way (similar to the phantom controller)?
Was thinking about updating my P2Z to use the Taranis after I complete my F550 project.
Anyone have thoughts about self centering vrs standard throttle for Naza M V2 controllers? Or is it a preference type thing?
Thanks!
SMP
Member
Great Original Post!!
Here is a link to the Taranis User Manual.
https://code.google.com/p/opentx/wiki/OpenTx_FrSky_EN#openTx_for_FrSky_Taranis
Haven't played with the radio yet but does anyone know what the LS and RS (Right Slider) switch designations are?? For example (SB, SE, etc?) Trying to set Gimbal Tilt to RS.
Here is a link to the Taranis User Manual.
https://code.google.com/p/opentx/wiki/OpenTx_FrSky_EN#openTx_for_FrSky_Taranis
Haven't played with the radio yet but does anyone know what the LS and RS (Right Slider) switch designations are?? For example (SB, SE, etc?) Trying to set Gimbal Tilt to RS.
SMP:
Here's my mixer line for that:
GIMBAL (+100%)S1 Switch(SA↑) (GIMBAL)
Explanation:
"GIMBAL"= channel 8(label/name in Taranis) on my X8R receiver
"S1" = the left knob and is the "source" of the control
"Switch(SA up)" = the S1 ONLY works when SA up is active
So what you need to do is to make a mixer line entry for your gimbal control channel and change the "source" to "RS". It should look like this:
CHx(or the name you gave it), (+100%), RS, --------, "your text"
Leave out a switch unless you want a switch to control RS like I have done.
Then, when you get the gimbal tilting, maybe it goes to far up or not far enough down, etc, using the RS slider, so adjust the "weight" and "offset" of that mixer line to make it go to the limits you want. Probably a bit of trial and error and would look like this:
CHx (+90%)CHx, ---, Offset (-20%), (VIDEO-A) ((Important parts are the (+90%)[the weight] and Offset(-20%) ))
Hope this helps,
Ron
Here's my mixer line for that:
GIMBAL (+100%)S1 Switch(SA↑) (GIMBAL)
Explanation:
"GIMBAL"= channel 8(label/name in Taranis) on my X8R receiver
"S1" = the left knob and is the "source" of the control
"Switch(SA up)" = the S1 ONLY works when SA up is active
So what you need to do is to make a mixer line entry for your gimbal control channel and change the "source" to "RS". It should look like this:
CHx(or the name you gave it), (+100%), RS, --------, "your text"
Leave out a switch unless you want a switch to control RS like I have done.
Then, when you get the gimbal tilting, maybe it goes to far up or not far enough down, etc, using the RS slider, so adjust the "weight" and "offset" of that mixer line to make it go to the limits you want. Probably a bit of trial and error and would look like this:
CHx (+90%)CHx, ---, Offset (-20%), (VIDEO-A) ((Important parts are the (+90%)[the weight] and Offset(-20%) ))
Hope this helps,
Ron
The EEPROM with the tweak went well - I had my maiden flight on Sunday and she is lovely and stable.
The left stick (Throttle) does not self centre - whereas the right stick does self-centre.
If I knew how to post to Youtube I would post my maiden flight
ANDREW