Another Tarot 680Pro build...

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
What's up folks? I've been busy toiling away on a couple projects, not least of which is reviewing the DJI Phantom 2 for the multirotorforums.com product reviews section. So time has been spread thin, but I have had a chance to work on a hex I've had in the works.

After building up the CineTank and flying that for a while, I had to admit to myself that the footage I'd like to eventually get would best be served by a copter capable of lifting the camera/gimbal load more easily. The CineTank gets great footage with the camera strapped to the clean plate, but I would be force fitting a gimbal on there, so it was best to settle on 2 different MRs. My ultimate goal is to capture some motorcycle riding footage using the GoPro at first, and eventually a Sony Nex5 I have (BTW: great camera for tucking in a moto tank bag).

I began a massive research phase which resulted in the choice to build a hex, based on the Tarot 680Pro frame. This build has not been without its headaches, in fact worse than any other I've done so far. So maybe the trials and tribulations will help someone else down the road...

The following parts are the basis of the build:

Tarot 680Pro
SuperX FC
SunnySky 3508-20 580kv motors
HobbyWing Platinum Pro 30A OPTO ESC (**2nd choice - see below**)
Taranis X9D Tx
FrSky X8R Rx
Various FrSky telemetry modules

It was a fairly quick decision to choose Tarot. Their frames are well reviewed, and prices are much lower than a lot of the competition. They fold, which was a must for me, and the fact that I could find the frames here in the USA also influenced my decision. In fact, all parts were sourced from the US, shipping balancing out the higher costs versus the Chinese vendors. The first hurdle was deciding between the Tarot 6xx mm size frames. I knew it needed to be a hex, so the 650 was out. But they offer no less than 3 frames in the 680-690 size range, and I went 'round and 'round trying to determine what would work best for this build. The original 680 frame is still available, but most reports insisted that the folding mechanisms, as well as the motor mounts on the newer 680Pro were improved. Following the 680, Tarot released a 690 size frame which had a few improvements, but then released the 680Pro which carried the 690 benefits, but with an integrated PDB plate. Of course the inclusion of the PDB came at a weight cost, clouding the decision even further. Whew! So many choices, so much to consider...

Finally I opted for the 680Pro for the improvements, as well as what I considered to be the ease of using an integrated PDB. Decision made, let's move on...

There are some build threads out there with specific component choices for this frame that were getting 15-20 minute flight times. I assumed if I stuck close to those parts lists, I would have a heavy lifter hex capable of keeping me in the air long enough to get the shots I needed. The list above was decided upon by research and some math.

The first glitch: I initially ordered ESCs from Witespy, 6 SimonK Opto blue series with the filtering removed, which is supposed to be an improvement for the lower Kv, high pole/magnet count (pancake) style motors. Problem was: A) they were from Witespy with his notoriously slow shipping, and B) I began to read more and more about issues arising from using SimonK firmware on pancake motors. It seems people experience cogging when the Esc/Motor combo goes out of sync. I can't tell you how many threads I read that stated something like: "it SHOULD work," or "I don't THINK there will be a problem." Not exactly confidence inspiring. So I started to scramble to find an ESC that would work with these SunnySky motors, right out of the gate. Finally I decided on the HobbyWing Platinum Pro - partially based on reviews here, and also the fact that one build I was referencing was using this exact combo. The order for the new ESCs was placed...



Once all the parts arrived, I got to work assembling the frame, and readying it for the components. After building 2 frames with an integrated PDB, I can now say that I prefer using a "squid" or 3rd party PDB. I feel hemmed in by the location of the pads you must use for the integrated PDB, and I found myself making choices for parts placement in areas I wasn't comfortable with. On paper, the addition of the integrated PDB is appealing, but in practice, for me it limits (or at least steers) my choices.



This is the first time that I have used the pancake style motors, and they are so much larger than you imagine when you see them in photos. Getting them onto the motor mounts was no problem though...





For the record, I learned to make a proper braid for this build. The motor wires for the SunnySky came in at 60cm, far more than I needed. I felt like a school girl twisting the damn things...



To be continued...
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
One thing that I have not been very happy with design-wise, is the lack of space for the electronics on the base plates. With only 2 center plates (one being an integrated PDB), there is very little room to add the ESCs with all the wiring stuffed in there. I tried a couple different locations including the underside of the top plate (seemed squished between the 2 plates) and beneath the bottom plate. The latter required grabbing some longer (20mm) screws to extend the mounts that hold the under-bars. These bars allow attaching battery trays, gimbals, etc. The extra room gave me some space to work with, but ultimately, nothing fit in a comfortable way.

Eventually I ordered some 16mm aluminum boom clamps and opted for mounting the ESCs to the arms, getting them out of the way of the wiring inside the plates altogether. This was short-sighted though, because now the much-coveted folding mechanism is hindered. I'll need to rethink this - and I feel that adding a plate to the central area is the answer.



I had decided to use this build as a way to make the leap to the FrSky Taranis Tx. Buzz about this radio is all over the internet - so I won't go into it here. You can see the owners thread HERE on MRF. But suffice to say the appeal of an open source transmitter was too much to resist... The Taranis came as a package with the new X8R Rx, which allows for "Smart Port" connections. This is the FrSky protocol for easy connection of their newest telemetry sensors. I was looking forward to being able to get better feedback on battery voltage, current and amperage used.

First thing I needed for this swap was to fab some antenna stands for the X8R PCB antennas. I have never seen an Rx antenna like this - and these things are bulky! A quick trip to the local hobby shop (they only seem to have things that I can repurpose for other projects) to buy some plastic tubing got the job done.



Sadly, the transition to the Taranis did not go as easily as I'd hoped...
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
With the receiver all set up and mounted on the frame, I was ready to get to installing and testing all the components, as well as getting the booms/motors aligned and level.

After all the panic and research about the issues caused by using ESCs flashed with the SimonK firmware in conjunction with the pancake/high pole count motors, eventually opting for the HobbyWing Platinum Pro Optos, I was hoping for a smooth install. But...

I ended up having the hardest time getting the ESCs to recognize the throttle settings coming from the SuperX and Taranis. The ESCs were programmed (using a programming card) and throttle calibrated, but still the ESCs didn't recognize the throttle position as fully down - which resulted in the most annoying beeping. I tried changing End Points in the Taranis, reversing sticks, reprogramming the ESCs MANY times, making new models in the Tx to start from scratch - but still no luck. I wasn't sure if the issue was the ESC, the SuperX or the Taranis. Or maybe a combo of some (or all) of these things.

I was getting some help from the folks on the SuperX thread and XAircraft themselves, but ultimately, it just worked. There is nothing more frustrating than finally getting something to work, with no idea what solved it. This doesn't inspire confidence. But I had to move on...

After Finally moving past the ESC issues, I got the rest of the build buttoned up. Checked the level on the motors, made sure all the bolts had loctite, and generally tried to make things a bit neater. The tight confines between the plates did not help with the tidiness of the build, but having put the ESCs out on the booms helped a bit. One thing I really felt it needed was an extra top plate. I didn't need it to be the full size of the existing plates, but something to protect the components on top of the craft - since there was no way to hide anything away between the plates.

With just the 2 plates provided by Tarot, it looked like the photo below:



But I had a nagging feeling I needed a better set-up. Eventually I remembered I had an old plate I could use - and the pre-drilled holes were a perfect match. Added some standoffs to raise it above the level of the SuperX components, and I was good to go...



This also got the GPS up a little higher away from all the power lines running beneath the top deck. Not sure it needs it, but it certainly can't hurt.

I ran some tests in the driveway, and it was exciting and terrifying at the same time. The driveway is WAY too confined, and I needed to get to a field quick. The Hex did lift off no problem though - and it was good to see that the build was headed in the right direction. The power of this thing is instantly recognizable - so different than the quads I have been building...

The next issue to overcome was the fact that this thing was now so big that it would not fit in the truck to get me to the field for some tests. Decided to build a stand/mount to hold the Hex in the bed of the truck. Had some wood, and used some eye-hooks to strap it down with bungies...



The stand seemed to work fine, even while bumping over the potholes and frost-heaves left by the brutal winter here in Vermont.

Maiden flight report coming soon....
 

haha49

Member
My father made 2 of them the first one had a problem with the motor and it took off really fast...
 
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bowalker

New Member
Thanks for this thread, some good advice here! I have just ordered a 680 Pro and looking forward to setting it up. I also plan to use it with a NEX5.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Thanks for this thread, some good advice here! I have just ordered a 680 Pro and looking forward to setting it up. I also plan to use it with a NEX5.

Welcome aboard. I've got some stuff to add to this thread in the near future.

Good luck with your build.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I've been swamped with other builds and waiting around to tear this hex apart to put new ESCs in. Finally got it done, and although there have been some snags, I got a chance to get to the field for some flying.
 

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Rangers99

Member
Thanks for the thread and tips…I am currently building a 680pro with almost the same stuff…using Tiger Motor MN3508-580kv motors, ZTW Spider 30amp ESC's, I also have the same receiver and transmitter…I have been reading a lot about the XAircarft SuperX FC and I am planning on using this also…How do you like it? Also what battery are you using? I currently have the ESC's mounted under the motors on the booms…I wound up cutting the motor wires and put bullet connectors on them so I can plug them into the ESC..I then resoldered longer wires onto the ESC's so they could reach the main board from the end of the boom. This is my first build and I could use any advice that you could spare…Battery choice? FC thoughts? Any tips on calibrating the ESC's? Thanks in advance for any help.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Unfortunately, right now I am having some real issues with the superx and arming ESCs. I've now tried 2 sets of ESCs (hobbywing platinum pro 30A, witespy mod version of ZTW spider OPTO). The HW several would not arm - with these new ones just motor #6 doesn't want to arm occasionally. I repower (sometimes multiple times) and it will work. Not very confidence inspiring.

The sad part is that after all the messing around I slapped a Naza on there with the original HW ESCs and it worked immediately. So I am pretty sure it's the superx causing the issue.

ill do a more thorough post about it shortly.
 

Rangers99

Member
Unfortunately, right now I am having some real issues with the superx and arming ESCs. I've now tried 2 sets of ESCs (hobbywing platinum pro 30A, witespy mod version of ZTW spider OPTO). The HW several would not arm - with these new ones just motor #6 doesn't want to arm occasionally. I repower (sometimes multiple times) and it will work. Not very confidence inspiring.

The sad part is that after all the messing around I slapped a Naza on there with the original HW ESCs and it worked immediately. So I am pretty sure it's the superx causing the issue.

ill do a more thorough post about it shortly.[/QUOTE
Thanks Motopreserve…sorry to hear these problems…hope you can get the issues worked out…I was going to look at the Naza but I currently have a phantom 2 and I am not liking all the flyaway problems they are having…I experienced one myself and it wasn't a good feeling, thank god I didnt lose it, it crashed but wasn't lost…also having issues with J-Hook and TBE with my phantom. I was hoping this SuperX was the answer…seen quite a few people flying Hexa's with them with no problems so hopefully you can get it worked out…keep us posted..Good luck and Thanks again…I guess I have some deciding to do LOL
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I think the more you look into the flyaway - the more you'll find that they're typically user error. Meaning, often people are not doing the full calibration, the calibration correctly, or not waiting for the start up procedure to complete before lifting off. Not saying this happened to you - but although I'm not in love with the way it flies, I think it should be ok in the interim.
 

Rangers99

Member
Yes I do have to agree with you there…the more you read up on them and the more videos you see, the more you see it is user error…Thanks
Have you been able to get anymore flights in with your 680pro?
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Yes I do have to agree with you there…the more you read up on them and the more videos you see, the more you see it is user error…Thanks
Have you been able to get anymore flights in with your 680pro?

I got a few over 2 days last week - testing out the hex as well as a tarot 2D gimbal. You can see the video below. It's a boring video and I am in desperate need of some tuning... :)

http://youtu.be/bZHnclKFVrI
 

Rangers99

Member
Nice…glad she is flying good :nevreness:….Now is that with the Naza or the SuperX? Can you use your go pro to fly FPV and record like on the Phantom 2 non vision?
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Nice…glad she is flying good :nevreness:….Now is that with the Naza or the SuperX? Can you use your go pro to fly FPV and record like on the Phantom 2 non vision?

Well, it flew ok, but the issue was the one motor not arming (always #6). If I repowered it - it would work. Not very confidence inspiring. If not for the issue with the superx being finicky about ESCs - I don't know that there is a better flying value out there (especially after flying the Naza).

The flight in the video was all with the superx. The other issue I'm having is that there are 2 motor mounts that have slight cracks on one side (same on both mounts) where the 1 screw attaches the motor mount to the boom. Also, there is a stripped thread on one of the LG mounts that holds the silver boom clamp. Very frustrating. I have replacement parts - but it will require tearing the whole thing apart and desolder since I have the ESCs on the mounts. And believe me - I was NOT wrenching on this thing! Ugh!

Oh well, live and learn... :)
 

Rangers99

Member
Yeah, I have heard of a few people having problems with stripping stuff on the Tarot, haven't heard of any cracked motor mounts though…guess I will use caution when tightening them LOL…ughh yeah I can definitely see that being a nightmare having to desolder everything and take it apart…I am at the point of soldering the esc's to the main board now, haven't done it yet, on vacation so when I get back in a few weeks I will be working on that…just have to decide on a flight controller but still leaning SuperX :) Any tips on battery selection? 3s or 4s? mah? Thanks again for all your help..its greatly appreciated
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I would definitely suggest 4S - don't even bother with the 3S. You'll appreciate it later when you have the power you need, with some to spare. As far as the size of the battery, really depends on how long you want to fly. You could get a few 5000mah batteries and be flying for quite some time.
 




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