1st copter build (Tarot 680) - criticism needed
- Thread starter DenisDespair
- Start date
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Don't even get me started on why KDE's style of customer service is such an oddity in this industry - but suffice to say it is far and away the best. They simply care about their customers and their products. At this point - that is worth its weight in gold to me.
DenisDespair
Member
Ok, thanks for hint to KDE, smth to think about.
A few common technical questions:
1. Carbon props from T-motors are rather costly (76 USD for 15*5 pair). Are they worth it, or can I use some cheaper ones? Namely, which brands?
2. Camera gimbals are often powered by 3s battery. Does it mean that I need an extra small 3s 900mAh battery for gimbal? Or can I use some adapter from my 6s battery?
3. Is 810 frame suitable for disassembling? (For example, if I want to travel by plane to another country)
A few common technical questions:
1. Carbon props from T-motors are rather costly (76 USD for 15*5 pair). Are they worth it, or can I use some cheaper ones? Namely, which brands?
2. Camera gimbals are often powered by 3s battery. Does it mean that I need an extra small 3s 900mAh battery for gimbal? Or can I use some adapter from my 6s battery?
3. Is 810 frame suitable for disassembling? (For example, if I want to travel by plane to another country)
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
1. I think T-motors props are supposed to be better quality control making them easier to balance. But you DO have to balance them. So I've always gotten cheaper CF props (t-motor style 3-hole) and spent more time balancing. I chose more time over more money 
. Many places/companies sell knock-offs.
2. You can either run a smaller 3S or get a adjustable buck converter to dial down the voltage being sent to the gimbal. Make sure you check with gimbal controller you'll use - some can handle the step-down themselves.
3. Not sure if the 810 is foldable.
. Many places/companies sell knock-offs. 2. You can either run a smaller 3S or get a adjustable buck converter to dial down the voltage being sent to the gimbal. Make sure you check with gimbal controller you'll use - some can handle the step-down themselves.
3. Not sure if the 810 is foldable.
DenisDespair
Member
Here it is partly foldable
http://www.helipal.com/tarot-t810-hexacopter-frame-set.html
How about possibility to disassemble/assemble it partly using screwdrivers and instruments within reasonable time, let's say 1 hr?
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Perfect! I think you may want to plan for keeping it in the foldable position. The hassle of getting the tubes/booms assembled and motor mounts level/aligned would likely take more than an hour. Not impossible - but a total pain in the ass.
DenisDespair
Member
Let's say, is it doable twice a year before and after flight to some other country?
Or should I just buy big enough case to fit it in the folded form?
Or should I just buy big enough case to fit it in the folded form?
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Oh, that's a different story. I think twice a year is probably fine. I deal with technical difficulties weekly (if I'm lucky!), bi-annually is no biggie
Price out the cases for both sizes and see what you can save - and also wether the total size of the folded hex puts you in an extra charge for baggage.
Either way, having to do it twice a year is really no big deal.
Price out the cases for both sizes and see what you can save - and also wether the total size of the folded hex puts you in an extra charge for baggage.
Either way, having to do it twice a year is really no big deal.
AzViper
Active Member
I bought props made by Storm and balance them. I also purchased a power distribution board that has outputs of 5v and 12v that I will connect to my other power distribution board that supplies the 22.4v. The Naza outputs to the gimbal 12v I believe.
Remember you will need to use Loctite on all your screws, nuts, etc. this making it more difficult to remove the tubes. If you remove the props the 810 folds up nicely.
Remember you will need to use Loctite on all your screws, nuts, etc. this making it more difficult to remove the tubes. If you remove the props the 810 folds up nicely.
DenisDespair
Member
Ok, one more silly question. I don't see on the landing gear any motors. Do I need one for that also? Or how is it powered? Magnets?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...ulti_Rotor_Foldable_Landing_Gear_1_Pair_.html
Regarding loctite removing.. I would try acetone or DMSO. Carbon fiber (based on epoxy-resin) shouldn't be attacked by those solvents (especially DMSO), but loctite (if it is based on cyanoacrylate) swells slowly and loses mechanical strength
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...ulti_Rotor_Foldable_Landing_Gear_1_Pair_.html
Regarding loctite removing.. I would try acetone or DMSO. Carbon fiber (based on epoxy-resin) shouldn't be attacked by those solvents (especially DMSO), but loctite (if it is based on cyanoacrylate) swells slowly and loses mechanical strength
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
If you use blue Loctite you shouldn't have an issue removing the bolts. You'll just need to reapply. Red is another story.
The landing gear does not retract on its own. It's just a hinge that allows you to collapse it when traveling. If you want retractable landing gear - that requires a modification - I believe Tarot is now making fairly inexpensive retracts, but I'm not sure of the weight they suggest it can hold.
Unless you plan to have the 3rd axis pan very dramatically - you would probably be fine with the stock landing gear.
The landing gear does not retract on its own. It's just a hinge that allows you to collapse it when traveling. If you want retractable landing gear - that requires a modification - I believe Tarot is now making fairly inexpensive retracts, but I'm not sure of the weight they suggest it can hold.
Unless you plan to have the 3rd axis pan very dramatically - you would probably be fine with the stock landing gear.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Agreed. I consider red for motorcycles only
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
I'd also recommend trying the scotch tape trick (from CPO) around the booms where they clamp. I've hd some issues with the booms doing in their mounts after long flight days. Bolts were tight - just a function of the clamps.
Also, don't overtighten the motor mounts. The plastic can break fairly easily if you try to wrench on it.
Also, don't overtighten the motor mounts. The plastic can break fairly easily if you try to wrench on it.
AzViper
Active Member
This is why I went with these mounts as the screw goes through the carbon fiber and then clamps down. I found aluminum motor mounts but they only clamp on to the boom.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Is that just the older mount? People seemed to like the newer version when I reasearched the 680Pro, but drilling a hole would have really made it much better. I'll be doing that when I tear it apart. Having it keyed is....well, key
The issue I was having with spinning was actually at the center plate. But that mod is worth while for sure.
The issue I was having with spinning was actually at the center plate. But that mod is worth while for sure.
AzViper
Active Member
Is that just the older mount? People seemed to like the newer version when I reasearched the 680Pro, but drilling a hole would have really made it much better. I'll be doing that when I tear it apart. Having it keyed is....well, key
The issue I was having with spinning was actually at the center plate. But that mod is worth while for sure.
Not sure, its a motor mount that currently being sold for the T650 and T680. This is the same mount in aluminum.
