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Nothing wrong with it. The idea is that you could burn up the ESC and doing so would kill power to your flight controller. This is more important in our helis and planes because if you lose the motor you still have options. With a quad, I don't know how much it matters if you lose a motor or...

If you are okay ordering from over seas, I have heard good things about iFlight Carbon Props. They are quite a bit cheaper than T-Motor props I believe and probably aren't as nice. But from what I have read, people using them are happy for the price. I am going to buy some at some point to...

I have never made it past looking for Frames made in the USA and those were small FPV racing frames. Not saying it cannot be done, but I would think it is going to be very difficult to remove rest of the world completely from the equation. Some days I have trouble finding what I want for sale...

Just out a curiosity, you looking for assembled NA or actually made NA?

I also never use a ESC to power the flight controller. I am not sure if it s actually better or safer, I have never burned up a esc, standalone bec, or one of my soldered pololus. Seems as cheap as some of this stuff is made, any of them are likely to burst into flames the first time I fly...

If your ESCs each have a BEC, make sure you are not connecting them all. At most one, unless you are powering from outside source. You can pull the center wire from the servo connector and put some shrink tubing or electrical tape around it.

You should be able to work with the range you have, the resolution will just be low. And don't worry about the transmitter when calibrating. All signals come from the flight controller. The only problem I can think of for you is if you can get the esc to calibrate with such a low throttle...

Looking at that link, they make the proper adapter for the motor it would just be a matter of finding it. If you look at the picture in the link that shows the pieces it comes with, its the flat plate with three holes.

Not sure which motors you have exactly, but where your 5mm? prop adapter shaft mounts to the motor it is possible. It would just depending if the screw patter n would match up to another brand if your brand doesn't make a T style.

The above adapter comes with some motors, T-Motors/KDE for example. More common on the bigger props as you you wouldn't have worry about the prop free spinning if its not tight enough and there is no ccw/cw rotation problems to cause props nut to fly away.

I cannot tell for sure, but your threads also look a little deformed so the nut could have simply got stuck on the threads. Dirt, Smashed Threads, Bad luck, the outcome is all the same. The prop cones are terrible for staying on (not a lock nut) and usually cannot use a wrench of any kind, but...

The motor/prop combination will determine how many amps you need. The ratings on the ESC and Battery only serve to tell you how much that piece of equipment can handle without causing damage in theory. This rating would not determine what you need, but it gives you an idea of what the ESC can...

Matrice 600 seems like it would be a good time, enjoyed your the Matrice podcast. The flexibility to tinker would do if for me. Yuneec Typhoon H for an off the shelf camera drone but given the chance a DJI Inspire would float my boat, I mean fly my drone.

Stick the drone in the fridge, let it cool off and then do your calibrations at home? If your ambient flying temp is that of a fridge.

If you have changed nothing and no crashes, how many flights or hours you have on the motors? Could have a bearing going bad causing a new vibration that wasn't previously there. May also be worth trying a whole new set of props if you have quite a few hours on them.

Those motors are beasts. AUW with batteries? Found AUW, 17.2 KG.

Any luck moving the battery?

Another thought, how is the flight controller mounted? Depending how it is mounted, maybe you are getting some movement on the yaw plane? You could try going to a firm or softer mount, depending on what you are currently using: firmer - would help if there is too much dampening in the current...

How about a hard punch out? Not that it's a Racecraft but to work that possibly bad motor, you should get a poor response from it under heavy vertical load. Would think motor is also possible if esc swap does nothing. Could be a vibration at a particular rpm range getting back to the FC. Bad...

RC Rate and Expo will only make the multirotor feel faster or slower to my knowledge based on your moving the sticks and won't probably help much with the oscilation trouble. Rate = Higher rate will increase the overall movement or speed to which the craft reacts Expo = Allows you to smooth...