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Very interesting... BUT... What caused the motor to stop? I would regard this the same as a commercial aviation accident - we should ruthlessly track down the cause of the stoppage. Only that way can one be sure of avoiding repetition of the same problem. Motors themselves would rarely just...

Oops - sorry - I skipped the temperature part of your question - as jbrumberg says - keep your batteries warm until you are ready to fly - I carry mine in a fireproof case which, coincidentally, provides great insulation. Alternative would be a regular picnic coolbox.

Less weight, more efficient motor/prop setup, more battery. Given that you probably can't do much about the first two, the third is your only option - but there is a "law of diminishing returns" on adding batteries since they themselves are heavy. Best is to get familiar with eCalc

The capacitors on your ESCs should really be treated as a "moving part" and, like the motor bearings, be subject to regular inspection and planned replacement. Capacitors have a finite life (it's always quoted in the manufacturer's spec sheet), particularly so in this application where they have...

Actually the "45A" for the Anderson Powerpoles refers only to the maximum wire size that will fit into the back end of the crimp and the plastic housing - standard 10AWG wire is rated (in regular applications) at 45A and that's the largest wire that fits so they called it the "45A". The contact...

Just spotted these new ESCs on the Kontronik site: http://www.kontronik.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=393%3Aprofessional-line&catid=4%3Amotorgruppe&Itemid=6&lang=en (scroll down a bit) Evidently not for sale yet but they look interesting for high-end professional rigs.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38702__HobbyKing_Red_Brick_60A_ESC_Opto_USA_Warehouse_.html Basic, but should do the job

Staying with a big prop (which is what you need to lift weight) , I found a nice motor to suit, and it's only a little more than that last motor you proposed: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42698__Turnigy_G32_Brushless_Outrunner_600kv_US_Warehouse_.html...

Be careful to only order goods from the "USA Warehouse" - if you order from the "International Warehouse" (i.e. China) it can take forever. I'm in UK so can't help you with USA alternatives.

Ask eCalc ;) - my guess is that 16x10 props are going to drink the juice - a pitch ratio of 50% is about the max you want for hovering - i.e. 16x8, 17x8.5, 18x9, etc. btw - You might have trouble getting a delivery from HobbyKing in under 2 months! :(

How long have you got to build this puppy and practise? Nothing's going to be easy if you want to win. Touching a prop may or may not end in disaster - depends how lucky you are that day :) http://youtu.be/8F0Q0v7H_9Q http://youtu.be/wDHXVROPGEk

Probably gonna be quite tricky - but if it wasn't then the competition wouldn't be much of a challenge, would it? ;) How high off the ground is the 2x1.5mm gate?

Well - 28 inches to outside of motors - that means you could go up to 19" props - get some serious lift! If you overlapped you could go 20" inches or more. You'd need some big-*** low-kV motors.

No - one charger will do - but you'll want to slow charge them to make sure you have the maximum energy in them so, presuming you'll need to do more than one run during the competition, you really want to have multiple battery sets already charged and ready.

Yes - 20% more pitch on the bottom is about right. Tips being that close might give you some trouble (airflow is "flung" off the tips) - overlapping slightly may actually work better - "interleave" the props a bit so you might be able to squeeze 12" props in there and avoid tip problems. All...

Moving in the right direction, but too short on flight time for your spec. Why not specify a standard battery? Incidentally, height above sea level and air temperature make a difference - set them for your location.

Be more precise - 28 inches to the tips of the props lined up with the arms or 28 inches to the outside of the motors. Big difference ;) I haven't tried it myself but see this thread: http://www.multirotorforums.com/showthread.php?5870-Overlapping-Propeller-Designs&highlight=overlapping

On the contrary - IDD will be much more forgiving since the gearing gives you an "excess " of torque, therefore precise settings won't be so critical to results. This would benefit either Alexmos or G-Lock. Overall, though, I'm fairly certain that the G-Lock/Radian will turn out to be a much...

You really need to give more detail of the brief! Is the sole object to lift the greatest amount of weight? For how long? What are the "limitations" exactly? I strongly recommend using eCalc with the weight field set to "without drive", i.e. only enter the weight of the frame and electronics...

"2P" indicates two packs @ 5000 each, so that's okay. But 2S packs, really? That could be why 12inch props are not overloading the motor ;) Frame does seem very light at 270g but AUW is showing as 1185g so it could be right.