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Update: reworked both ocotocopter platforms and replaced all the ESCs - that took more time than I thought it would; in both cases quite a bit of wiring and connections had to be redone. Now waiting for nice weather - that could be a while - it is now -30C. I am anxious to test the ships with...

F1 and F2 are used up in octo configurations but If you use S-bus that frees up F1 and F2 for gimbal control. However, if you use a Spektrum or Jr and have an octo, F1 and F2 are used for motor control (can't double up on those). If the later is the case then you need a separate controller to...

...or if you are using a Canon DSLR (T2i) and it supports Magic Lantern - you can install that firmware and turn on the intervalometer and just let it go taking images every so many seconds. Works great, it is one less thing to think about as you are flying. ...or if you have a camera that...

Update: I just received this confirmation from Altitude Hobbies (LVC - Low Voltage Cutoff). "Yes, I have been told by iFlight that they do not have a LVC at all (which is part of the SimonK firmware), so you shouldn't have to worry about the ESC shutting down when the voltage gets drawn down...

I purchased these: Heavy Lift Octo: http://www.altitudehobbies.com/ipeaka-iq-40a-opto-hv-brushless-multicopter-esc-w-simonk-firmware?search=ipeak I note it does say no programming required but I would like to be on the safe side - I have sent an email to the company but they may not know...

I haven't read all the details but you have a limited budget. If there is any place to skimp on price it is the frame. I made an octocopter out of cedar straps from HomeDepot with plywood base plates and it is lighter than my carbon fibre frame I paid $1000 for. Although the carbon frame is...

I just received my preflashed ESCs with SimonK firmware. My understanding is that I don't need to program those other than to calibrate the throttle. For instance, I just wanted to ensure that I don't need to set that up for NiCAD batteries rather than Lipo so that I don't have the ship fall...

I have ordered iPeaka iQ 40A HV OPTO Brushless Multicopter ESC w/ SimonK Firmware for our HL setup (WKM): http://www.altitudehobbies.com/brushless-esc-bec/ipeaka-iq-multicopter-esc-simonk/ipeaka-iq-40a-opto-hv-brushless-multicopter-esc-w-simonk-firmware I will report on how those work out.

The DSMX issue should have been known and documented - poor testing or communication, DJI must have known that. ...you would think.

I have been running 2 4S 5800 in parallel. However, I haven't been getting great flight times (5-6 minutes) so I am wondering if I should be using 6S 8000. The highest temperature here during the summer is 38 Celsius. My digital scales are out of batteries but my best guess for weight is 6 Kg...

What ESCs would you suggest for an octo HL (lifting a Canon T2i & 3 axis gimbal) with Axi 2814/22 motors? I want to replace my current ESC setup (Maytech) and eliminate ESC issues as a possible cause to a wobble I get (adjusting the gains has no affect on the wobble).

Anyone tried these ESCs? http://www.castlecreations.com/products/quadpack.html How would those work with WKM?

As I recall you are using a Naza and that only supports a hexacopter not an octocopter - I could be wrong but that is what I remember' I use a WKM with an octocopter and have to use a different gimbal controller for the camera because the motor 7 and 8 take up the ports for the camera controller...

Not sure if anyone else has mentioned this... didn't read the entire thread but don't test your ships in your driveway or anywhere near built-up areas (you mention the ship flying out of control over an apartment building). Go to to a rural location with open fields for obvious reasons.

officerdibble, your attachments aren't working. By the way even though there is no CHDK for the 550 there there is magiclantern which is essentially the same thing. We use it to give us an Intervalometer - don't worry about remote shutter control. http://www.magiclantern.fm...

We are using it with Droidworx octocopter HL and have found we needed to set the the gain between 100- 150 depending on setup but 200 was way too much for our setup. Most people seem to report different results but in our tests, 200 consistently crashed the octocopter. I wouldn't trust the...

In regards to flexible PLA: I read on Thingeverse that you can treat regular PLA with Carburator Degreaser and get similar results after the fact. Look it up on Thingeverse. Boris, looks good - the camera looks too close to the ground - you want lots of clearance.

I use 30 A ESCs on 5Kg octo HL, 12 inch props, because that was recommended in these discussions - I would have gone with 40 A (safer option) but at the time there weren't a lot of options. My ESCs do get hot but I think that is normal. If they get hotter than what you can hold then that...

No I have a Droidworx frame and 200 is way too high - may crash if set too high (personal experience). Just over 100 seems to work well for my Doridworx HL octo. Put the gain into a control knob and adjust it on the fly. Problem is with the way DJI has it setup to do this you have to give up...

Yes, I will check the calibration thing but quite sure I had that setup. Always worth a double check though. The props are balanced.