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generally, the plastic props have a 5.5 to 7 or so mm hole, which one inserts a bushing into to fit the prop shaft. i do not use GWS myself, so not sure if they follow suit with the other mfgrs. anyway, to fix it, if needed: prop reamer dubro used to make a good one. tower hobbies probably has...

i no use 3s with this set up. 4s mostly and sometimes 5s. i get about 12 min out of a 4s 4000, with a go pro, board cam, eagle tree with osd, guardian, gps, baro alt, and such on board, and a 400 mw 5.8 tx. if all you carry is a board type camera and one of the mini tx, you could probably get...

pc win 7 since they do not yet supply a GCS for the winphone.

haven't had a glitch in any of my R/C stuff since switching to PCM systems back in 1986. never had a hold or lockout with any system either. haven't used a temp gun, i no have one, but after a full flight, avg 12-14 min, nothing i could put my hand on was much over ambient temp...

the motors in my above post have 2 mounting holes on a 16mm bolt circle and 2 holes on a 19 mm circle. can't really tell from that add just what the mounts on that tarot frame has. would be surprised if it has something different though. 2 at 16 and 2 at 19 is kinda standard for smaller can...

probably 30-35 flights so far. no problems at all, esc, motor, fc, frame, all solid

uhh, might want to set the cut off mode to slow rather than instant off. think about it fer a few and it will become apparent. someone else will have to tell ya about the plush middpoint. i do use plush 40s with my V1, no problems to report.

the motors mentioned in my post above do have mounting holes that line up with the rct800 arms. that is why i chose them, no drilling, taping, or hunting for suitable adapters required. also liked the long leads that reach all the way to the inside the frame mounted ESCs. the YS x-4,x-6 while...

kit http://www.rctimer.com/product_809.html motors http://www.rctimer.com/product_848.html ESC http://www.rctimer.com/product_850.html prop http://www.rctimer.com/product_777.html i have the above, set up as Y-6 config. easy to assemble and minimal soldering required.

sounds nice, now, how about a winphone compatible GCS?

opto type ESC should not matter if red wire is intact. on yer own as to mounting ESCs. i use a small bit of double sided thick foam tape to position and loosely wrapped zip tie to act as secondary securing. not looking at your ESCs, but flat side is usually heat sink side.

don't know the probabilities, but, this guy who owns naza kit, as well as zero uav stuff, is on winphone devices. so how bout some support for us?

look on the 3rd page under parameters, remote control mode. set it to adaptive. works well on my x4s.

sounds more like a problem with one, or more, of the motors. when ya land and shut the motors down, does one of them stop sooner than the others, consistently? spin each by hand and feel for bearing drag/roughness. try recalibrating the ESCs.

anyone else notice the 6 arm "octocopter" in the article heading picture?

that blue flash indicates you are not in manual flight mode. try reversing the channel the 3 position, ch 5, switch is on. or maybe just move it to the opposite end position. will probably have to do the same with the ch 6 switch as well. should just be the 3 red flashes at first as it looks for...

click the init set up button, then select the set up guide from the pull down menu, just click through to the page where it ask you to check the 3 position switch setting, what mode is in the little box when that scree opens? if it is saying settings, or setup or anything other than "manual...

i find it much easier, large screen, and more reliable to do all the initial set up stuff with the pc gcs. the android one, just seems to not communicate at a reasonable speed to get the job done.

tell him to sell that cheep second rate radio, and get a solid futaba<G> also, the PC GCS is a lot easier to use for initial setup. also, ya do have to be either in the quick start guide or have already entered initial set up mode before it will save data to the FC.

hard cut off generally means that when the esc senses the cutoff voltage has been reached, the motors stop. probably not what ya want to happen. soft cut off means, generally, that the motors start to loose rpm slowly and you descend.