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Yes, it has an internal step down. I run 6S directly into the SuperX on all my big rigs. When you use an ESC you are potentially adding heat to they ESC, and if it fails, your FC fails! With an Octo, if one motor goes out, I expect to still land! And no, ha ha I'm just a multi rotor nut now...

I'd power the SuperX directly from the power distro, using the ESC's BEC is not a great idea.

XAircraft can take from 3S - 6S batteries directly into it. All you need to do is soldier a 2 wire (black and red) servo lead to your main power distro board and plug that into the "batt" port on the super X. And you are good to go.

What mode are you flying? If in Atti or GPS, the throttle is not a throttle, but more fo a height adjuster. 50% throttle is “maintain” current height” 51% + is rise, 49%- is lower. the only time you should sense a “throttle’ feel is in manual. This is true on Naza, Wkong, SuperX, Hoverfly...

I have a Tarot 2D gimbal and it is every bit as good as the H3-2D. Never tweaked it at all and it’s spot on. $149.. can’t beat it AND you don;t need to fly a Naza.

Me too. mine is useless... no NTSC... :(

What camera? Looks great! As an avid bike racer I actually love it!

The clips are not cheap. I think they are $200+ for the 4 clips, but they work so well. Even if you buy them from the manuf, they are expensive!

http://www.rclogger.com/Video-Telemetry/RC-Logger-HD2/RC-Logger-HD2-Camera.html

Have this, it works great!! http://www.shop.rotorsandaerialmedia.com/R-C-Rotors-Evolution-Quick-Release-system-RCRQRS.htm It works GREAT! 5 seconds to unclip the gimbal from the rotor.

It’s not because it’s limited to a specific camera and lens. If you are trying to fly professionally the ability to adjust your gimbal to many cameras or at least a multitude of lenses is key.

S800 are not tall enough for what I need.

I feel so much better i’m not the only one going through insanity with these things. I thought maybe I was just a moron! :D

That’s an 800kv motor. Most of the motors I have experienced in that size like a 10” - 11” prop. I’d suggest trying them out, fly for a few min and see if your motors get hot or your ESC’s get hot. If not then see how your flight times do. All teh calculations are great, but sometimes real...

From china.. $39 US http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADJUSTABLE-CAMERA-RAIL-1-SET-WITH-ALUMINUM-CLAMP-FOR-CINESTAR-W2-DSLR-GIMBAL-/161182777668?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25873e0144

Yea I think a 14” would kill your efficiency. 12/38 should be great with that motor. i was getting 10+ minutes on a 6.5 - 7lb machine with (1) 6000 mah 4S pack on the avrotos 770kv

Manual mode is an actual throttle, Atti and GPS are not. In Atti and GPS 50% throttle is “hover” and dropping/raising the throttle just changes the height, the FC still controls the motor speed. So depending on a throttle curve or ESC response you may see a higher or even a lower throttle...

in some way they do, I do not hate SimonK but I swear that a few of my rigs that are on normal T-Motor programmed ESC’s fly soooo smooth. The SimonK ones do just fine though... no worries!

For the record..... SimonK IS the programming. That is the whole point of simonK. You do not need to program the ESC’s. The SimonK firmware is supossed to be the “Optimal” setting for the esc... hence why he made it. On the superX when you do the neutral point calibration and then the both...

RC Rotors and Aerial Media sells this, it’s just a few grams and works perfectly. I have it marked for a few different lenses, so it’s a matter of loosening 4 bolts sliding the piece and retightening them.