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I assume you meant "libel" :) - which I didn't do. I expressed my view (at the time) based on facts given to me. It's called debate and it was in a closed forum. And your own attempt at defamation only furthers my suggestion that there's no debate, per se, going on here. This forum should be...

Oh, you mean like a democracy? Where an autocratic founder/leader can't ban people just for expressing an opinion that differs from their own? ;) I do wish you'd back off on the pompous pronouncements, bart! James and Oleg and all the other "victims" deserve heaps of thanks and gratitude for...

The second one is an Asctec Falcon 8 - they have a patent on the layout - but many hobbyists have built this shape - it's commonly called "V8" (or "V6" with six motors). OpenPilot CC/CC3D has a mixing table for these built-in - I'm sure some other FCs will as well.

It's a photographic choice, isn't it? If it had to be only one, I'd go with the 30mm myself, but the 16mm will also be useful for some subjects (or treatments thereof). One of the obvious things about aerial photography with an MR is that you have a "zoom lever" in your left hand - go higher for...

To my knowledge there were no problems with the store servers (AU or EU) - so if it gave you an order number then you're good... sit tight... you'll get the tracking number when they are picked up by Fedex (or whoever).

You got a confirmed order number, right? Shipments will go out asap - please remember this is a kitchen-table operation ;)

Don't know about another production run, I'm afraid - as Kloner says, China will start making them soon enough ;) - your best bet is eBay: an original CC or a new CC3D - they'll fly more or less the same.

Here's a quote from this informative page: I'd wait for DJI to verify they've conducted (at least) one of their 70-hour tests on this idea before proceeding ;)

It would be a lot safer if he specified a suitable lubricant - some lubricants will attack certain plastics, so you really need to get the right one! Also, if you lubricate a switch contact (which this is effectively) then you should definitely NEVER connect/disconnect the arms with power...

I can understand that the cheapo "washers" that come with many motors may well be made of cream cheese. But well-made shims in carbon steel should not wimp out as you describe. The shim (or shims) should occupy all the available space between the face of the inner race and the circlip, without...

I'd really, really advise getting the proper crimper. No amount of foodling about with a nail and a wimpy automotive crimper will get the same results as the purpose-designed tool. That thread you linked to (very interesting - thanks!) should lead anyone to this conclusion.