Search results

Actually, it won't even charge the GPS battery. The wiki page is incorrect or misleading, the 5V line on the USB port is not connected. You need to use the MKUSB with the jumper to power the navi which charges the GPS battery.

I'm unclear on which firmware is being used. Here is the latest: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/BUILDS/OpenPilot+Software+Downloads Install that, load the firmware that comes with it. PWM should be used if you have a RX with several outputs. IOW: Not Sum signal.

There's a few of us with multiwii based boards. I built one with wii parts way back when. I've since upgraded to a quadrino but haven't flown it in months for various reasons. I am itching to try the latest firmware.

Anyone think that we should shrink the rope length to 5 feet?

Keep us informed on the fix. Hopefully it's an easy one.

So it seems that something is dragging down the 5V line. I don't know if you could have damaged recom IC4 or if that could even be the issue. I don't know what else it could be other that foreign matter on the board or an internal short on the atmel chip. I think you are going to end up...

Do you have a current limiting power supply that you can dial down to 5V and low mA? It seems like something is shorting the voltage lines to ground. Maybe before sending it off, desolder all the wires on the board just to be certain. If you have 5V on pin 2 of the ribbon cable when the MKUSB...

The LEDs are switched by the Atmel chip. Assuming you had the MKUSB connected properly, no LEDs would be a strong indication that the Atmel isn't running. Just to make double sure, power the board with the MKUSB and you should have 5V on the 5V pad on the bottom of the board. Power from both...

EDIT: Use a regulated power supply or 9V battery for testing. It sounds like a short blew out something but there could be other causes. Check the entire board with strong magnification for solder blobs or foreign matter. Check that the cap on the bottom of the board is not touching the...

Keep in mind that all the power going into the FC board passes through a single diode that is rated at just 1amp. (if I'm not mistaken)

100% humidity doesn't help. Do a search here and at mk.us for silicone conformal coating.

I had thought about buying a blade coaxial copter to practice with inside. Then I think why not just build a mini quad that could carry a small camera or FPV gear. I was thinking of one of these with a small CopterControl board...

If one diode came off the bad board that easily, then other parts on the board likely have cold joints. I'd try sending that board back. When that doesn't work, reflow the entire board especially the top side.

Knowing what I know now, if I was to do the same thing again, I would spend the first $1000 on a CopterControl board, an inexpensive frame that can haul a gopro, and a video Tx. Then I would learn how to fly the darn thing really well and think about investing in something expensive. My 2...

The other part of the problem is all the soldering that has to be done by what are quite often newbies. That gives the guys at MK a real good excuse to blame any board defects on anything from bad soldering to static discharge to solder blobs. And sometimes it is justified. Sometimes it is not...

"it lands safe...more or less" lol Hopefully a real controlled descent is in the not too distant future. I like the new features. They may just be enough to bring my MK out of the mothballs.

http://www.servocity.com/index.html \\Servo parts and misc robotics supplies

Many things could cause this. Check that you calibrated the accelerometers in the GCS when the props are level to ground. Make sure the radio sticks show centered in GCS. Make sure the weight is centered on the craft. Does the display show that the craft is level in the GCS? If the above...

That sucks. Those little parts do like to take wings from time to time. :( Try this: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1N4148WTPMSCT-ND or this: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1N4148WSFSDKR-ND Those numbers came from this...

I believe that is D2 diode. If so, it is polarized and has a marking band on it. I think the TV guy will get it right but check afterwards just in case. This is not the first time that parts have just fallen off these V2 ESCs. It's further proof that there is a manufacturing problem. I would...