Wish I never bought this thing!!!!


ash

Member
I don't know if you're actually managing to connect with the Naza via USB, you don't say. After messing about with "the latest version V2.14 of Naza assistant) for a couple of days and getting nothing, I found that you have to use Naza Lite assistant v.1.0 the others won't work. It's a different program but the drivers seem to be the same. Good luck.
 

bensid54

Member
I'll do that. I should reset on Acro mode because on Heli mode channel six is designated to the throttle stick and can't be used anywhere else. I'm going to copy and print the above and try what you recommend later tonight I hope.
 

bensid54

Member
I don't know if you're actually managing to connect with the Naza via USB, you don't say. After messing about with "the latest version V2.14 of Naza assistant) for a couple of days and getting nothing, I found that you have to use Naza Lite assistant v.1.0 the others won't work. It's a different program but the drivers seem to be the same. Good luck.
It does connect and says I have the latest version of software.
 

Hi bensid54, you can not change your first 4 channels but channels after that, eg 5,6,7 in your case, are aux channels and can be re-programed to perform different functions. Yes I used 8 out of my 10 channels, you only have 7 channels, so you have to decide what function is less important to you and leave that one out. Most Futaba radios are the same except some of the latest models, so your programming should be similar except you have one channel less.
Your first priority is to create a new model and set up your radio (bind with your receiver of course) and then work on the naza assistant to do the final config.
In my opinion you made the best choice by purchasing a Futaba Radio.
Regards - bruce
 
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bensid54

Member
Thanks for the compliment Bruce I do prefer Futaba. In heli mode it's very easy to assign switches but I haven't figured out how to do it in acro mode I don't see anything that lets me know I can assign the three position switch to channel 5 which is landing gear. Only thing I can adjust on channel 5 is expo and endpoint.
 

Hi in your radio these settings are under PARAMETER
Page 30 of manual:-
Auxiliary channel function (CH5 and CH7): defines the relationship between the transmitter
controls and the receiver output for channels 5 and 7. Channel 6 on your radio is the VR knob (Flap Trim Control) default switch assignments for a Mode 2.
Adjustability:
• Channels 5 and 7 may be assigned to any SWITCH (A-H) or none (null).
(for example, moving flaps to a switch)
• Multiple channels may be assigned to the same switch.
• Channels set to "NULL" are only controlled by mixes.

regards - bruce
 

bensid54

Member
Thanks Bruce I'll check that out. If I manage to change switches then I can use the three position switch for GPS/ATT/M settings is this correct?
 

bensid54

Member
OK got that done and all three positions go blue. What position is best for a rookie? How do I set up autopilot and do I have to plug in any wires in the last two ports? I still have channel six and seven on my RX left.
 

OneStopRC

Dirty Little Hucker
Did you get it talking ok with the naza? As for your question, start off with atti, when you have a good GPS lick, try GPS mode. A seasoned heli pilot like yourself, you will be in manual mode quickly. Have fun with it, glad you got it to this point.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
 

bensid54

Member
Yes my radio talks to the Naza, commands seem to work, I have not yet put the props on. So am I to assume that it is now set up for GPS and I don't need to program autopilot just go try and fly?
 

Hi bensid54, its usually best to take off in ATTI mode (not GPS) that way your copter should take of vertically without the GPS pulling the quad sideways (also take off relatively quickly, Naza does not like very slow take off). Once you are several feet in the air (4 or 5) set your throttle to 50% and the copter should maintain hover height (it may drift up or down a little bit but that's normal), if need be you can move the throttle stick to adjust height as required.

For now leave your Autopilot settings at the default of 100% you can tune these later if necessary. Select "Go Home and Landing" and also you do not have IOC set up leave that blank. Leave "Remote Adjustment" on "INH" for now.

I assume you have calibrated your 7C stick movement within DJI Assistant, this very important, when sticks are centred look in TX Monitor and make sure all sliders are centred and a green colour (not black).

Very important before you fly double and triple check that your motors are turning in the correct direction and that the props are the right way round and on the right motor (you should have clockwise and anti-clockwise props).

Regards - bruce
 
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OK got that done and all three positions go blue. What position is best for a rookie? How do I set up autopilot and do I have to plug in any wires in the last two ports? I still have channel six and seven on my RX left.
You don't need six or seven, but if you can use one of those for a 3 position switch and connect it to the X2 input, then you can use the 2 IOC modes that the Naza supports. The two modes allow you to fly the aircraft irrespective to the orientation of it. Read up the manual on it, and try to use one of those channels for that. You can use the other for gain tuning if you wish.
 

bensid54

Member
Bruce I did calibrate the sticks the sticks work the sliders as per Naza setup instructions, the motors turn as per setup instructions even though I had to reverse every one of them. The motors arm and shut off like they said they should. I don't have a second three position switch so how can I set up OIC Propilot.
 

Hi bensid54, with a two position switch your options would be off/courselock or off/homelock or courselock/homelock, If your just getting started courslock can be very usefull until you get the feel for the quads orientation, its very hard unless clearly marked (at distance) to determine the front and back of your quad.

Homelock can also be use full if you lose orientation at distance and you just want to bring your quad back quickly and easily without going into the Return To Home process.

I found both of these usefull when I first started, I probably used courselock more than homelock.

You need to trace which Radio channel is connected to X2 channel on the Naza, and then configure or set the Radio channel to one of you spare Radio switches (X2 on Naza controls IOC) You may need to adjust the endpoints of the selected switch to get it to switch to the IOC functions that you want (check positions of switch in DJI assistant).

Regards - bruce
 
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bensid54

Member
I've been reading the chinglish instructions for the Naza and thanks to you and Propilot I have a better understanding of this thing. What I'm going to do is use a two position switch set to course lock and home lock I'll set the GPS/altitude and manual on the three position switch. I'll place the manual setting in a position that will be hard to activate it unless I try to. Once I get the hang of this quad I may change that then again maybe not time will tell. I'll do a video once I get the bugs sorted out. Thanks to both of you for all your help I couldn't have done it without you.
 

I've been reading the chinglish instructions for the Naza and thanks to you and Propilot I have a better understanding of this thing. What I'm going to do is use a two position switch set to course lock and home lock I'll set the GPS/altitude and manual on the three position switch. I'll place the manual setting in a position that will be hard to activate it unless I try to. Once I get the hang of this quad I may change that then again maybe not time will tell. I'll do a video once I get the bugs sorted out. Thanks to both of you for all your help I couldn't have done it without you.

Glad we could help!

One last thought for you to consider... and I can't say this with absolute certainty, but I believe your Course Lock and Home Lock modes will only work if you are in GPS. If that is the case, then you may have a brain teaser problem that may mess up your brain if you're not careful. What I mean is that when flying in Manual, or Attitude, or with IOC turned off, knowing the nose orientation IS KEY... I mean, absolutely vital! If you don't know where the nose is pointing, you're going to fly the thing into something before your brain has had a chance to figure out what's going on. On the other hand, with IOC turn on, nose orientation means nothing. So if you flip your switch to Attitude or Manual, or worse yet, you loose your GPS signal in mid flight, all of a sudden your IOC modes will turn off, and you'll need to fly the MR by nose orientation and your brain will have to do that switch instantly. I can tell you this out of personal experience because a few weeks ago it happened to me. I had one of the IOC modes turned on and my GPS wire came undone (I have since secured it with hot glue), and before my brain was able to process what had happened and figure out where the nose of the MR was pointing, I ran into something and damaged my MR ($78 in repairs). This was all within 2-3 seconds.

Sorry for all the rambling about that, but it is just something for you to consider. If I had to make a recommendation, it would be to maybe use your two position switch for OFF and one of the two modes so that you can first get very confortable with normal GPS/ATT/MAN modes with all aircraft orientations, then grow into an IOC mode.
 

bensid54

Member
So those two functions only work in GPS mode that's good to know. I plan on learning how to fly it before I take on too many learning curves so will keep you posted.
 

deluge2

Member
IOC Modes (Off, CL, HL) and Flight Modes (ATTI, GPS ATTI, Manual)

Glad we could help!

One last thought for you to consider... and I can't say this with absolute certainty, but I believe your Course Lock and Home Lock modes will only work if you are in GPS. <snip>

So that sounds like a reasonable proposition, but it is not correct. Note the following is consistent with current NAZA firmware/documentation (v 3.16, 2013-08-07) and I think with more recent prior versions as well. Also assumes Mode 2 transmitter setup (ie rudder and throttle on left stick).

In normal flight mode (IOC Switch = Off), the craft's flight response to the right stick ('left/right and forward/back') is relative to the current orientation of the craft. So moving the right stick forward sends the craft in the direction the craft's nose is pointing.

Course Lock (CL) behavior is based upon the craft's previously recorded reference orientation (I'll call this the 'Home Orientation'). The Home Orientation is initially based on the craft's orientation 30 sec after the NAZA is powered up. The Home Orientation can also be set manually by toggling the IOC switch from Off to Course Lock, and back to Off quickly 3 to 5 times.

When flying in CL Mode (IOC Switch = CL), craft response to the right stick ('left/right and forward/back') is relative to the previously recorded Home Orientation, and NOT based upon the craft's current orientation. This remains true no matter where the craft is relative to the Home Point (assuming a Home Point has actually be established) and no matter which direction its nose is pointing. Thus CL flight behavior depends only upon the NAZA knowing the craft's current orientation relative to the Home Orientation in order to figure out how the craft should respond to inputs from the transmitter. This information does not rely on any inputs from the GPS system, therefore CL Mode can be used in both 'ATTI' Mode and 'GPS ATTI' Mode (CL mode will not function Control Mode is set to Manual). And CL Mode does not require GPS satellite acquisition or establishing a Home Point.

Home Lock (HL) behavior is based upon the craft's location 'at the moment' relative to the previously recorded craft location (the 'Home Point') usually established before takeoff as the position of the aircraft when you start the motors for the first time after 6 or more GPS satellites have been found for 10 seconds. The Home Point can also be set manually by toggling the IOC switch from Course Lock to Home Lock, and back to Course Lock quickly 3 to 5 times.

When flying in Home Lock Mode (IOC Switch = HL), craft response to the right stick is relative to the vector (arrow) pointing from the Home Point (usually established prior to take-off) toward the craft's current location (determined via GPS data). No matter where the craft is (provided its at least 10 m from the Home Point) and no matter which way the craft's nose is actually pointing, the tip of this vector represents the craft's virtual nose in HL flight and the craft's responses reflect this fact. Moving the right stick forward causes the craft to fly 'out' (away from the Home Point) along the straight line between the Home Point and the craft's current position. Pulling the right stick back causes the craft to fly 'in' (toward the Home Point) along the straight line between the Home Point and the craft's current position.

Clearly, HL flight requires GPS data (6 or more GPS satellites) both to establish the Home Point and to allow the vector from Home Point to the craft's current location to be determined. HL Mode flight also requires that the craft is at least 10 m from the Home Point, a criterion that can only be calculated with GPS information. When the craft is <10 m from the Home Point, then its flight behavior automatically reverts to Course Lock Mode behavior. Given this dependency on GPS data, it makes sense that HL mode can only be realized when at least six GPS satellites are found and the Control Mode is set to 'GPS ATTI'.

The key here is the distinction is between craft orientation (which way is the nose pointing) and craft position (where in 3D space is the craft located). I would strongly encourage those interested in using these IOC modes to carefully read the DJI documentation and then to perform their own evaluations of fight behavior under controlled test conditions (rather than using IOC flight modes for the first time in an emergency or other critical flight situation). The documentation is helpful, but is not always entirely clear/correct so trust but verify...

Finally, I think the above is accurate, though certainly simplified. If it is inaccurate, unclear, or I've otherwise made some errors (certainly wouldn't be the first time!), pls advise.

Steve

PS: Sorry to drone on so long, but learning something is enhanced by trying to explain it...

PPS: 'drone', ha!
 

bensid54

Member
OK I have my switches like this switch D off/course lock switch G GPS/ALT/Manual. Now how do I set up fail safe? My radio only has fail safe on channel three and I'm not sure how to set this up.
 

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