Tarot t810 - Foldable Design Frame

jhardway

Member
I figure I would start this post about my tarot frame I recently got. For Father's Day my wife asked I would like, of course it was multirotor related and since I was not happy with my past F550 conversion to 800mm build, I asked for the Tarot T810. Not that my F550/800 was not a good frame, I was finding it fickle with weight, when I was getting over 4300g's basically it load weight with a Nex5 camera on it, I would then really have to be on top of the prop balances.

I had a post on it and people on there were skeptical about the design and I saw the same flaws in it, but what I found out the frame was good frame and as a copter went it was efficient and had great power but when i got over that 4300g benchmark then the I would have a chance of causing the arms to shutter some when the props were out of balance just the littlest bit.

So back to the Tarot, the T810 is what I feel a intuitive design built of a good carbon fiber, it goes together with a few tough elements, like with you are bringing the frame together. However once you have it together the rest is pretty straight forward. when it is done you will have a complete fold-able hexa copter that when erected is solid, and you will not have to worry about any arm vibration cause by flexing. Also the copter is equipped with gimbal mounting bar compatible to the s800, in fact for the battery tray I am using one I got from an s800 and it fits on seamlessly. Unlike the s800 these legs will fold down with just by pulling back a spring loaded pin. to fold it down and put it up takes less then 30 seconds either way.

A few things to look out for an this goes with any tarot part that carbon fiber caps off to. Make sure you check them, on this frame there are 4 arms that have these caped off endings mainly to allow the arms to swing in and out as its being folded. 3 out of the 4 caps with a little force, not much, the metal capped bracket came out. It was easily fixed by re-gluing it back into place. In this case I used gorilla glue. I also had the same problem with the leg struts, just double check them.

Another gotta was wiring the 4 arms that fold in, at the end where the booms are capped off, so in that cap there is a hole to the side that feed the motor lead wires out, however it may be better to do it during the assembly stage, and make sure to it after you have checked the arms caps for looseness, other wise you are in danger of serverly damaging your motor lead wire as the cf boom will pinch them as you pull them out.

Another thing that I had to think around was the where to put the esc's what I did there was just make another layer below with a cf center hub from a different frame and that created the space I needed.

I will post photos

cheers
 

jhardway

Member
here are some first flight photos, Over all good result, winds were around 10kts gusting 18kts maybe a little more. Flew well, where seeing some white lights, not sure if that had everything to do with vibration from where I placed the IMU or just needed to be properly calibrated. During the last session I seemed not to see any white light, I live in -11 degree area, after calibrating the compass at 0 degrees off center, and then rotating it counter clockwise roughly -11 to -15 degrees. it seemed to go well.

I flew it pretty aggressive at times and was over all happy.

cheers

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jhardway

Member
Here are a few more photos, My next move is to take a few in flight photos and get some vid, but for the time the copter is flying well and even when its out of balance it seems to be in a good state. I am in the midst of working on the gimbal. Even though I do not have a brush-less setup yet I am going in that direction. For now I am trying to make the smoothest gimbal results I can.

cheers Jack

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David Lee

Member
That looks like a great setup, I'm anxious to see what you think of it and the RX100 as a shooting platform. How are you going to trigger the RX100? I'm thinking of using my RX100 on a multi rotor and am trying to figure out how to trip the shutter.

Best,
Dave
 


jhardway

Member
When it comes to the rx100 I have to say for photography the camera rocks in the sense it give a bang for what it delievers for size and weight. However when it come for praticality for multirotor the camera could not be less friendly, It does not have any infrared, and the HDMI out is on the bottom of the camera right next to the mounting bolt.

What I did was built a tray that extends the front of the camera where I can mount a little rc trigger which then comes down onto the photo shoot button. then on the other side of the lens I also mounted a little lipstick like small camera which allows me see what I am looking at. I will upload a photo a little later and that will make sense when you see it.

Over all it looks a little archaic but it does the job.

I am starting to work with some 3d printing, if I get that far I may try to figure out a way to mount it so the HDMI out can hook to my down link, but for now its is a frustrating set up, great camera lacking some things that would really have made it very popular. I honestly do not know what sony was thinking when the put the HDMI out on the bottom of the camera never mind for us in the Multirotor world but anyone how would like to use the HDMI out for a live feed can only do it if they hand hold it. It really did not make sense to me but its not any thing you think about until you need to use it in that fashion.

Oh well
 
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David Lee

Member
Thanks Jack! Maybe, with efforts of the good folks on this forum, we can make the RX100 more usable for multi-rotor use.

Best,
Dave
 

jhardway

Member
here is a quick raw video from my mount and rx100, there is not stabilization rigged up yet, this was more for working on Vibration.

 
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soler

Member
Hi Jack,

I am just looking at this as I have the 680 version and the arms have too much flex, Apart from the 810 version there is also a 960 version.
http://www.0577mx.com/products_view.asp?id=4307

For your photos it looks like you have a second base plate installed under the main body where you esc are, did you add this or did it come with the kit?

Thanks

Andy
 

jhardway

Member
Andy,

Yes I did add the plate to the bottom, I would have done the same as the t810 plate but when I looked into it, the cost was $97 so what i did was order a center hub plate for a

[h=1]Tarot FY680 Adapter Cover Carbon Fiber[/h]the cost was like $20, I had to make a small cut and drill a few holes to line up the post. but at the end of the day it works pretty good.

As of flex, with the 25mm and the way Tarot incorporated the locking mechanism for the arms into position, it is possible you will bread the arm before the arms will move position.
 


soler

Member
Andy,

Yes I did add the plate to the bottom, I would have done the same as the t810 plate but when I looked into it, the cost was $97 so what i did was order a center hub plate for a

Tarot FY680 Adapter Cover Carbon Fiber

the cost was like $20, I had to make a small cut and drill a few holes to line up the post. but at the end of the day it works pretty good.

As of flex, with the 25mm and the way Tarot incorporated the locking mechanism for the arms into position, it is possible you will bread the arm before the arms will move position.

Now you have done it!!! I am going to have to get the 960, I was quite happy with my 680 but the arms do flex a bit. I considered reenforcing the arms with some small CF bar 3mm and a carbon wrap but seeing how strong the 810 and the 960 look I will just be easy to get this.

From the photos on the website it looks like they have changed the way the arms lock with M4 screw, this should be an improvement. Is there anyway this can connect to the gimbal? It is great having a folding hexa but with a gimbal below it does not fold up that small.

Could you take some photos for me showing how the gimbal attaches and how the legs fold? Could the legs be modified to auto retract?

Thanks

Andy
 

soler

Member
Ordered the FY960 with the legs, gimbal mount and battery tray, should be here tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes but I will not be able to build until I get back to the UK.

Andy
 

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